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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2008 1:15:08 GMT
Finished forging this guy today, from 1045. I still have to heat treat it, and that is only a temporary handle(I am working on handles, how they should feel, balance, fit the hammer head). Comments and critique welcome, I tried contouring the handle, and I like how it works out and fits into my hand, what are your opinions on that shape(hourglass)? it is stamped with my maker's mark, and 08 for the date. Thanks Greg, this 1045 is GREAT stuff!
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Feb 27, 2008 4:03:27 GMT
can I run a weird idea by you guys real quick ..... try not to laff ..... I was wondering about useing a rail-road spike and shaping it into a hammer
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2008 4:28:47 GMT
They suck, I have tried it, if the head was not offset, and they had much more mass maybe it would work better though.
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Feb 27, 2008 4:54:38 GMT
what about useing them for raw steel any good
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2008 4:59:50 GMT
Yes, rr spikes with HC marked on the head are the TRADITIONAL beginner knife to be forged, there is almost no way you can stock remove a blade from one, only forge, so they are almost like a right of passage for bladesmithing. Water quench for hardening, or add salt for a brine quench, 10% salt to water.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Feb 27, 2008 11:33:13 GMT
Is this shaped by any chance on one of those Japanese style smithing hammers? I havnt seen this style outside of Japanese sword making videos.
Sam, how do you normally approach dressing your hammers? I spent a day last week dressing my new lump hammer. I just chamfered the edges on a weeny bench grinder then passed the face under a friend's surface grinder to flatten. Sound ok?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2008 16:44:26 GMT
They are one in the same, the japanese smith's hammers and sledges, sawmaker's anvils used here in the west, as well as sheffeild bladesmiths hammers used here in the west, all basically the same hammer. i crown my hammers on a slack belt completely, then flat greind the center until there is about a little less than 1/4 of roundyness all around the flat center. A tip for dressing your hammers, you have to be able to lay down a series of overlapping blows and get a flat surface, if you still see hills and vallies then it has too much crown, if you see corner dig ins continue to round the radius.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Feb 27, 2008 18:46:46 GMT
I'll have to see how it goes. Cheers for that.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2008 1:02:19 GMT
No problem, it works for me you might like yours done different. Ilike my BIG 4.4 pound hammer crowned only no flat spot, because I use it to move lots of material.
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