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Post by 14thforsaken on May 1, 2011 2:04:51 GMT
Most of my files are either Craftsman or Kobalt. They're a little more expensive, but they've lasted forever. What Elheru said is right, you're better off paying a little more for better ones, especially if they have a lifetime warranty than getting cheaper ones. I've still got Craftsman tools that are from my grandfather and they still work great. Some of my powertools are older than me and will probably still work long after I'm gone.
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Post by Tyler on May 1, 2011 7:00:30 GMT
Ahh ok well im going to home depot tomorrow after work to pick up said files and sand paper(never hurts to be on the safe side) and one thing i keep for getting to ask is which way im supposed to stroke it(haaaa) im not exactly sure. its just the very tip of the kisaki that needs to be fixed up. any pics would be helpful too lol even a sketch in paint with stick swords would be great lol
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Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
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Post by Talon on May 1, 2011 7:20:41 GMT
www.appropedia.org/Filing_Metalthis may prove usefull for you tyler,i tend to look for older well cared for files at flea markets (they just seem to have been better made back in the day)  and modern quality ones aren't cheap,definately a skill well worth learning though
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 1, 2011 15:44:38 GMT
When shaping or sharpening, I always move the file away from me. Some people do it differently, I'm just more comfortable moving away.
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Post by Tyler on May 2, 2011 0:47:43 GMT
Alright, iv got my little repair kit together (minus the whetstones for now) lol one question though.
i have the same brand for sandpaper but 2 grits are aluminum oxide (150 and 220) and the 320 and 400 are pro grade. as far as i know there isnt really much of a difference between the two. i used both in my metal working class in high school. but i would rather be safe then sorry when it comes to my swords lol so does it matter? lol
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 2, 2011 1:25:10 GMT
It shouldn't matter. For me the key is if I can use a little oil or water with the paper. It should say on it if it can be used wet. That keeps the paper from wearing out as fast and lubricates things so it takes less pressure to sand. I prefer using machine oil to water, but that's personal preference.
The main thing is getting the bent part file off and the tip reshaped and you'll probably be using files for that. Generally when I've fixed something like this, I do the filing one day and the sanding /sharpening another. Its not necessary to space them out but I do so I can stay focused better and avoid frustration.
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Post by Tyler on May 2, 2011 2:56:18 GMT
yeah reshaping the tip is what will be the challenge for me. i have just regular sandpaper. not the wet or dry stuff because they didnt have it in the grits i needed =/. And i probably will have to take 2 days because i work a lot. ill try and post better quality pictures of my work too
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Post by Tyler on May 2, 2011 5:58:23 GMT
Also found this. would this be accurate for the motion i should be doing with the sand paper after filing the bent piece off? www.swordforum.com/forums/attach ... 1145980941 |
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 2, 2011 16:48:31 GMT
That's basically the corrected shape you going to be going for. Most of the time the motion you will be using, is going away from you towards the tip of the blade.
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Post by Tyler on May 2, 2011 17:15:45 GMT
sweet. i got the bend filed off and it looks pretty nice i must say. i little bit of a flat can be seen but just barely and you have to really look hard to find where it was bent or know where it was. i started the sanding at 400 grit because i didnt do to much damage to the kissaki when i was filing. (still am sanding at it and i probably will until i leave for work in an hour and a half. should i go till i can see any scratches left and then pick up some higher grit to sharpen it later?
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 2, 2011 18:54:19 GMT
For polishing, yes you work with a grit until all the scratches are uniform and then you move up in grit. How much the tip was dulled when fixing it determines what you need to do to sharpen it. If it got pretty dull, start with a metal file, if not you can use stones or sandpaper. Edge sharpness is a personal preference, so sharpen it until you're happy with how sharp it is. Good luck.
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 2, 2011 19:33:37 GMT
Last couple of things I forgot to mention:
ALWAYS wear protective gloves or have the blade firmly wrapped in cloth when you are sharpening or polishing it. You really don't want to slice your hand open. It will also help prevent you from getting oils from your hands on the blade which can cause discoloration or rust.
As a last step when polishing, I generally use some form of metal polish such as Fitz, Metal-Glo or Brasso and fine steel wool (000 grit) it helps give it a nice last pass and polish.
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Post by Tyler on May 3, 2011 2:29:58 GMT
Alright well i had to call it quits earlier due to work but tomorrow i have all day with this baby lol
Also i at first wrapped it with a rag then realized my hand had been on the blade for a good 10 minutes so i wiped it down and wrapped the whole thing in an old shirt. if i can get my hands on my gfs camera ill post some good pics of my work.
i feel dumb that i have to ask this but what exactly does metalglo and the other things listed do?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on May 3, 2011 2:43:53 GMT
Liquid polish simply removes any residual crud on the blade. Abrasive polishing paste(like those listed above,) has a small amount of very fine abrasives in it that removes minuscule amounts of material and helps remove fogging.
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Post by Tyler on May 3, 2011 2:52:35 GMT
ohh is that kind of like that ball of poweder that came with my cleaning kit? (the name escapes me lol)
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 3, 2011 3:34:14 GMT
No the ball just contains a powder that cleans the old oil off, it isn't an abrasive.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on May 3, 2011 4:18:14 GMT
Yeah. The Uchiko ball contains a powder made from ultra fine polishing stones. In fact, as I understand it, extended heavy use will dull the polish on your blade.
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Post by Tyler on May 3, 2011 5:19:00 GMT
well we dont want that to happen lol
ill have to check around for some of those then (online im assuming)
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Post by Adrian Jordan on May 3, 2011 5:46:39 GMT
I got Metal Glo off of Amazon at a good price. I like it because sometimes despite cleaning and oiling the hamon on my Kaze seems to get a little cloudy in places. The paste takes care of that. Many experienced people here swear by Mother Mag and Aluminum polish, so you may want to look into that. Much pricier than the Metal Glo, but also easily found almost anywhere. I cannot comment on if one is better as I only have tried the Metal Glo.
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Post by Lobster Hunter on May 3, 2011 10:30:22 GMT
I've noticed that Metal Glo is a little bit more aggressive than Mother's, in terms of quickly removing metal. They're both good for removing tarnish and rust. I had a similar but more extreme type of damage to the tip of one of my kats. After some filing, I finished with one of these: www.amazon.com/Lansky-Super-Sapphire-Sharpening-Hone/dp/B000B8IEB8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t It worked out okay. Fine grit sand paper works fine too. Just be sure to work very carefully and slowly. The kissaki is the "face" of your katana. You want it to look nice and pretty for your enemy.  |
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Herron's Flight by Brendan of Fable Blades
and modern quality ones aren't cheap,definately a skill well worth learning though
