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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2008 17:55:47 GMT
If this topic does not belong on this forum, sorry I am new. I am not a knife/sword maker. I am a woodworker and professional sharpener. My brother lives on a boat in the Gulf of Mexico and wanted a left handed sushi knife. So I headed to the shop. I had a piece of tool steel bar and a chunk of wood. www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/sushi1.jpgI roughed it out, heat treated and tempered it. www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/sushi2.jpgThen I moved to the stones. I used these man made stones to get the geometry right. I am a free hand sharpener. www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/sushi4.jpg Then I moved to natural stones to polish the blade. I am not done, but it is already razor sharp (note the band aid, to the bone ). I do not toss the term "razor sharp" around like I hear others do (don't get me started, shaving your arm is NOT razor sharp ). He wants a knife he can swing a hair at and cut it, I have posted a YouTube link of me doing that here before. I am an old school sharpener, nothing but water stones after heat treatment. I am satisfied with the luster I got on the stones. Now I move to the strops. I will strop this blade until it splits a hair. I am far enough along I finished the handle, 2 tone die on quilted rock maple. another picture of the handle www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/shandle4.jpg
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Post by randomnobody on Feb 15, 2008 18:18:59 GMT
That's a pretty handle. For the confused among us (that'd be myself), what's the difference between a left-handed sushi knife? Is it a bevel difference? Grip? Something else?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2008 18:43:10 GMT
what's the difference between a left-handed sushi knife? Is it a bevel difference? Yea they are only beveled on one side, the back is flat. You can cut very thin slices with the flat back to the object being cut. I have never used one myself (not much worth eating sashimi up here in Illinois). I was just going off my brothers specs. A right handed knife the bevel is awkward for a lefty. Make sense?
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Post by randomnobody on Feb 15, 2008 18:47:10 GMT
I thought that's what it was. Makes perfect sense.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2008 20:02:06 GMT
who knows whether or not it belongs, but it looks very nice. Well done. Is that band aid in the picture a product of a sharpening accident?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2008 20:33:35 GMT
Is that band aid in the picture a product of a sharpening accident? Yes sir. A split second loss of concentration, that's all it takes .
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Feb 15, 2008 21:24:11 GMT
As a fellow lefty, I really appreciate a nice bit of design like this. What did your heat treat involve? I love the handle.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2008 21:49:34 GMT
. What did your heat treat involve? Like I said I am no knife/sword maker, so some (all ) of you may think this is wrong. I have a little homemade forge (for hand plane irons) I got it glowing red, quenched it in ice/salt/water mix. Then I tempered it the best I could by letting it set on the cast woodstove in my shop for 1/2 day (maybe 400 for 4 hours) It is very hard, but not too brittle, that is all I know.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Feb 15, 2008 23:20:17 GMT
If your heat treating method works for you, go with it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2008 18:50:21 GMT
Georgeous knife man, think you could post some details or a link that would go more in depth on how you got the handle to look so damn gorgeous. I have virtually no experience in that sort of thing, but maybe a noobie guide or something would help. Definitely keep it up man.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2008 21:06:34 GMT
poo, it starts with the right wood. This was quilted rock maple. I don't know if you know anything about figured wood (curly, quilted, birdseye...) That is my business, I sawmill/sell specialty woods. Anyway the figured wood is a mixed of endgrain and straight grain all in one piece. If you have ever worked with wood, like stained or varnished it, the end grain soaks the liquid up faster and deeper. Let's talk in simple terms the end of a 2X4 will soak up paint faster that the face. If I have not lost you so far. I use a 2 tone dye technique. First I mix up black dye (RIT clothes dye) and wipe it on, let it set for just a few second and wash it off. The endgrain parts of the figured wood soak it deep and leave the rest not very dark. I give it a light sanding after it dries and then hit it with concentrated yellow and leave it.
But it won't work on anything other than the right wood. Pictures do not do it justice, it looks a mile deep. I posted another project here in "customization" that was curly maple I was going to dye, but changed my mind, it would have not looked right for what I was trying to do.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2008 2:48:29 GMT
I actually understood most of that, Thanks for the explanation. I've been looking for an idea for a sheath for a knife i'm planning on making soon, that color on the handle would be absolutely perfect, considering its a, elven/woods themed knife. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2008 17:29:27 GMT
exactly how is it to correctly sharpen a knife? what stone is best, whetstone or other stones? care to share some info?
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