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Post by SwordLord on Apr 26, 2011 14:53:14 GMT
Hey all. I recently managed to get this sword apart (a semi tough task with the glue or loctite or whatever they used on the threads). Now I know I have massive muscles :lol: :roll: ... yeah right. But I was surprised to find that the tang is twisted...? Is this right? I seriously doubt I did this by unscrewing the pommel because it never needed to even be put in a vice but I've never seen this before. I guess it will be okay if I just use the old handle and epoxy it back on but I really didn't want to do that. The handle is quite loose and I wanted to make a new one. Beside, the leather was cut anyway (bought it used from sneakypete). So is this normal for this sword or any other for that matter and any suggestions on a new handle I won't have to epoxy on the keep snug? First Euro so I am on virgin soil here.
Thanks, Dominic
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
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Post by ghost on Apr 26, 2011 16:40:03 GMT
Any pics SL? I would put the blade in a vice (all the way up to the twist)- lightly heat up the tang and twist it back to true. or find two pieces of steel, clamp em to the tang & heat em up then twist back to true. Don't use pipe wrenches/monkeys (their gonna leave nasty grooves) but two adjustable wrenches. You want to set the first wrench about .5 to 1 cm from the actual twist and the other wrench in the middle of the twist-to-thread. I'd go w/ poplar - use Gaffer's methods. (I chisel mine rather than do the 4 rectangles and glue) www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_grip.aspJust some slight additions for a threaded: I'd hand tighten the pommel all the way until it is tight - loosen it a back up .5 cm and measure from there to the guard -for the wood core. Add 2 mm onto this for saw blade error (if you're not used to woodworking). Once you're done shaping the grip, I lightly file/sand the pommel end down slowly until the pommel becomes about 5 degrees off of 180 degrees. If you're planning on leather wrapping with the leather going into the guard/grip and pommel/grip go 180.
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Post by SwordLord on Apr 26, 2011 17:09:56 GMT
Thanks for the advise (BTW, ghost, the fix for my saya you recommended worked - had to take this route since the replacement saya Kris Cutlery made for me didn't have enough curve to accommodate the sori). Any way....so I did twist it when I removed the pommel? That's crazy. I'll clean the threads, give this straightening a shot and make a new core. Also, the guard and pommel have some good scratches. I was thinking of bringing it down to the steel and polishing it up. Should I blue it or keep it shiny steel and what would be best for helping prevent rust?
Thanks again, Dominic
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
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Post by ghost on Apr 26, 2011 17:41:26 GMT
glad my fix for your saya worked yea lol SL, I think you did twist it somehow. I guess you didn't use heat to loosen the glue? (wrap in seran wrap and plunk it in a boiling pot of water) Hmm, I thought the fittings were stainless... Anyways, cold bluing is great rust inhibitor (won't work on stainless)...not sure about oven bluing - I don't think it does anything for or against rust Depending on the level of polish on the fittings - 800 grit sandpaper? and some Mother's - I don't think it'll rust anytime soon either. Mother's has some protectant also that very rust inhibitive. Dunno, it's up to you. Whatever you like the most. I'd oven heat stainless fittings that are highly polished so they don't look as SLO-ish
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Post by SwordLord on Apr 26, 2011 18:07:03 GMT
I know little about this sword. Looked for info but little is said about what material the fittings are made of. Again, first Euro (just ordered a Celtic from Kris Cutlery) so just kinda diving in head first. Katana are still my passion but finding more and more interest in Euro's and ancient swords (waiting patiently for the Gladius to come back in stock at KC).
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