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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 4:07:49 GMT
Here is a small tanto, I forged just the outline last year at my old shop, meant to send it to someone for them to file to shape but that fell through(weirdo). Ground a chisel edge onto it, and heat treated it and it is ready for mounting. No frills, flat grind on the platen up to the tip, and the tip is convex ground on a slack belt. Forged from old leaf spring. I left the rough hammer marks on the back and upper bevel, because it showed my early hammer technique and mess ups. It is MUCH more gorgeous effect in person up close, alas my camera does not do close ups well. AT the plunge cut, that is grease/oil, not a grinder screw up. And here is the naginata i am working on from 5160. Comments and critique welcome, i am JUST starting to make friends with the platen.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 17, 2008 4:31:10 GMT
Nice! So the tanto is through-hardened?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 4:45:54 GMT
Yup, might have a hamon though i have not nor do i want to etch it to see.
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Post by themaster293 on Jan 17, 2008 6:04:22 GMT
That naginata looks cool.
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 17, 2008 6:35:19 GMT
The naginata looks damn good. Will you be mounting it up full or leaving it a bare blade?
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jan 17, 2008 9:06:59 GMT
Are you planning to leave the hammer finish on the spines of both of those blades? That would make for a pretty unique Japanese style sword. Who has ever heard of a hammer finish naginata, for example?
Could be really cool.
Awesome work as usual. My favourite was that Kat you made with a massive amount of sori. Cool stuff.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 17, 2008 14:46:42 GMT
Sam, Can you get a lighter pic of the naginata? I really like the lines but the nakago looks to be a bit short. As a general rule the nakago wants to be the blade length plus a hand or it may fail in a strong cut.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 16:23:04 GMT
Thanks guys. Yeah i am leaving the hammer finish on both of them. If someone buys the naginata then it will be in shira, if not i will mount it up and test it out. Sure will Dan, i realised all too late the tang was a bit short hehe, people have been telling me since i posted the pictures, which means i might just make it into a wakizashi/wakimaki:D.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 17, 2008 17:59:45 GMT
Just advertise it as a "Ladies' Naginata." Are they monosteel?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 18:02:11 GMT
both are yes, the tanto was an old forging i did a year ago from a section of leafspring, the naginata is 5160.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2008 18:23:16 GMT
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jan 17, 2008 20:13:01 GMT
Nice!
Must be pretty cold where you are. Wish it snowed in the UK.
I have heard folks say, "that forge must keep you nice and warm in the winter". No it doesnt. You have a warm nose, and a cold arse.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 18, 2008 5:22:55 GMT
Sam, Many naginata were deliberately shortened and remounted as katana during the Tokugawa shogunate, and many more katana were forged to appear as if they were shortened naginata although they never were anything else. That nakago looks perfect for a "naginata naoshi wakazashi".
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 18, 2008 5:28:06 GMT
Here's one by Howard Clark: I'd love to see yours done up in this way! No hamon though .
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2008 5:34:13 GMT
Well Slavia, you just turned the argument! i might be able to get a straight hamon like that one in that picture slavia i will try atleast. Good picture Dan thanks, that is a nice blade but LORD that hamon looks fake in the overall picture hehe, but up close very gorgeous. Naginata Naoshi it is then.
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 18, 2008 5:46:06 GMT
Yeah, I'd pay good money (if I had it) for something like that, definitely. Especially if it started out as such, rather than actually having been cut down. I'm finding too many shortened swords in my searches for antiques, but I guess such is inevitable. Unfortunate, but inevitable. Do see if you can't get a hamon on that thing. If you don't, whatever, just mount it up pretty, anyway. On second thought, if you want to leave it finished as-is, don't mount it TOO pretty, it'll clash. If you leave it rough, mount it rough, and rough it will be. Rough, in this sense, can indeed be pretty. I look forward to seeing this finished.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 18, 2008 5:54:22 GMT
Might I ask why you didn't clay-quench them in the first place?
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 18, 2008 12:16:38 GMT
Sam, That fake-looking hamon is exactly why I am not a big fan of the modern hadori polish in the first place. I prefer the older sashikomi togi form even though the hamon does not show up nearly as brightly.
Slavia, 5160 is a deep hardening, rapid hardening spring steel designed specifically for through hardening processes. As such, it is very difficult to get the steel to shallow-harden in the first place and it is a pain in the ass to make it do so without failing either during quench or subsequently during use. The problem most smiths have with differentially hardening 5160 is that the transition zone from soft to hard (habuchi) is too narrow and well defined. This frequently causes the entire edge of the blade to crack and fall off under stress.
I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it is generally too much of a PITA to bother.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 18, 2008 15:14:00 GMT
Got it, not enough transtional pearlite dispersion towards the ha, I would imagine. (In other words 5160 does not easily facilitate ashi?)
Are Kris Cutlery blades prone to this problem?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2008 15:17:19 GMT
Might I ask why you didn't clay-quench them in the first place? i wanted the little tanto through hard anyway, and the naginata is not even hardened yet, but when i do it will be clay coated.
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