Greg
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Post by Greg on Apr 3, 2011 7:21:24 GMT
 Hehehe. Ok, so the story behind this was that I coated all the non-fullered parts of this blade in normal candle wax. I used electrolytic etching to reblacken the fullers and I'm rather impressed at the job it's done. This was the XII.1H that I removed the blackening... just to put them back on... go figure right? However, I needed a way to remove the wax and I figured a hot shower would do it. Well, once it was in there this topic practically posted itself. Side note, the hot shower helped remove some of the wax but there's some still on the blade. Anyone got any bright ideas for removing wax? |
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Apr 3, 2011 7:33:07 GMT
have you tried lynx africa shower gel greg that should do it :lol: ,failing that you could try putting an old damp towel on the blade and use a hot iron (should generate enough steam to melt the wax) or hold the blade over a pan of boiling water,when the wax starts to melt wipe it off with a rag and lighter fluid or isoprop  can you explain you're electrolyte process im interested in trying that myself  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2011 7:40:39 GMT
Paraffin wax is soluble in any hydrocarbon-based paint thinner or solvent. Even kerosene or gas on a rag will do it. If all you've got is gas though, be careful.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Apr 3, 2011 7:43:25 GMT
Ah, sure. I used to have the link saved around here somewhere, but it's easy enough to explain. Step 1: Find a wall adapter that will give you 9-15 volts DC output. Cut off the existing plug and strip the ends. Step 2: Briefly soak some q-tips, cotton swabs, whatever you wanna call them in a healthy mixture of salt and water. It's not an exact science, the greater the salt content, the faster the process goes... or so it seems. Step 3: Attach the POSITIVE wire to your blade and the NEGATIVE to a cotton swab soaked in the water/salt solution, alligator clips are good for this. Where ever the solution makes contact with your blade, you'll get a darker area. Note: Most wall adapters label the positive wire with a line of some sort on it. Another Note: You know you are doing it right when the cotton swab starts turning black where it's touching the blade. If it's turning blade where the wire is clipped to it, then you are doing it wrong. Backwardsly wrong. Edit: Dodger: Thanks man! I sacrificed one of my scotch brite pads to clean it up for the night. This project was actually a spontaneous venture due to my frustration with my insomnia. You know you are a sword addict when you battle insomnia with sword related projects. I'll try the Poly-whats-its-called tomorrow tho. I just now noticed a slight tinge of brown... or maybe it's green... show up on my fullers. I probably didn't oil em good enough. Anyway, gonna do that then get some sleep. Thanks again man. |
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Apr 3, 2011 14:29:40 GMT
cheers greg ,ill give it a try |
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SeanF
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Post by SeanF on Apr 3, 2011 15:39:11 GMT
Gez Greg, keep it PG-13  |
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Apr 3, 2011 15:51:20 GMT
:lol: priceless
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Post by whitefeathers on Apr 3, 2011 15:53:34 GMT
Pg 13 ahh thats great  |
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Post by Sir Tre on Apr 3, 2011 21:02:26 GMT
hey no fair pixeled sword porn
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Apr 3, 2011 21:15:54 GMT
Velo, that deserves some karma, thanks for the out-loud laugh.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2011 23:34:46 GMT
Likewise, bro. You made a mouthful of very fine Bordeaux come out my nose. :lol:
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Post by Deepbluedave on Apr 4, 2011 10:48:01 GMT
The lynx ref cracked me up. Well done Talon
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