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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 7:00:34 GMT
Would it be possible to do a blade by stock removal from an off-cut of a flat galvanized steel structural reinforcement bar ? Would the Galvanization of the bar impede on the structural qualities of the steel ? Would the Galv. coating stop a Hamon from appearing if I was to Clay and bake it ? This would obviously be just as a experimental piece but I have been looking at this piece of steel every lunchbreak getting ideas in my head, so I thought I better ask others before I get my hopes up .
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Post by kidcasanova on Nov 14, 2007 7:06:30 GMT
I was wondering the same thing, actually. I don't have any spring (or steel) manufacturers in my area, but I have access to buttloads of rebar, as my dad owns an electric company.
As long as I get stock steel, of a decent grade, I dont see why it wouldnt work. It'd just take a lot more work than grinding out the shape. =/
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 7:55:24 GMT
I have been wondering about files, and what kind of blade they would be and how you could work them.
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Post by kidcasanova on Nov 14, 2007 8:24:20 GMT
I've seen people use files to make knives. Apparently, it's quite nifty.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 15:31:54 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 17:24:08 GMT
Would it be possible to do a blade by stock removal from an off-cut of a flat galvanized steel structural reinforcement bar ? Would the Galvanization of the bar impede on the structural qualities of the steel ? Would the Galv. coating stop a Hamon from appearing if I was to Clay and bake it ? This would obviously be just as a experimental piece but I have been looking at this piece of steel every lunchbreak getting ideas in my head, so I thought I better ask others before I get my hopes up . DO NOT USE GALVANISED. When you heat it up it will give off zinc fumes which are highly poisonous, and you will die a slow and painful death. If it is galvanised it is probably sh*t steel anyway. Any steel that has been galvanised SHOULD be considered USELESS for any applications that involve changing it's shape, by heat or grinding both will produce poisonous dust and vapors. JUST SPEND a few dollars and order some 1095 from www.admiralsteel.comsomething to the tune of 50$ for enough steel to make a full kitchen knife set, or a wakizashi and katana(NOT projects for beginners but you get the point) or a bunch of tanto. You will have enough steel to practice with clay coat patterns and hardening techniques with still some left over. Email them about shipping prices on 2 lengths of 36 inch long 3/16ths thick by 1 1/2 inch wide, and 2 lengths of 36 inch long 1/4 inch thick by 1 1/2 inch wide. When you get it, cut it to length, then grind it to shape, and get some furnace cement from Home Depot or a local plumbing and heating store, apply the clay thick to the spine and thin to the edge, heat it up EVENLY until a magnet does not stick to it anymore then let it cool completely. Then heat it up again until the magnet doesn't stick again and quench it in 120 degree peanut oil, and when you get a bit more expeirienced water but TRY THE OIL FIRST. People highly underestimate that oil can also make for a spectacular hamon. Be careful, safty glasses and gloves and all that, and have fun. If you are truly serious, start out with known steels instead of mystery steels, it takes ALOT of expeirience to get the best out of a steel you have no idea what it is.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 5:17:22 GMT
Cheers Sam. I had a feeling galv. was poisonous but just wanted to ask someone in the know. I do not regard myself as any form of smith but it does not stop the old mind from ticking over. ;D
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slav
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Post by slav on Nov 15, 2007 5:23:19 GMT
Buy some 1095 from Admiral. Sam how many times do we have to say this?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 16:00:47 GMT
Cheers Sam. I had a feeling galv. was poisonous but just wanted to ask someone in the know. I do not regard myself as any form of smith but it does not stop the old mind from ticking over. ;D No need to be a smith to make blades, which is why i recommended easy stock removal size blade stock:D. Making blades is easier than you think trust me. You want a tools list? www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_465469_465469THAT"S IT. Maybe a few more pads for the grinder but that's it. Most makers start out stock removal, MUCH less of a learning curve then forging. Buy some 1095 from Admiral. Sam how many times do we have to say this?
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 15, 2007 22:08:36 GMT
I was thinking the same thing. I won't be forging proper blades for many a year yet, so an angle grinder formed blade a la Brenno is my best bet right now. He certainly gets results, so I don't see why we can't have a go too.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2007 4:30:03 GMT
Cheers Sam. No need to be a smith to make blades, which is why i recommended easy stock removal size blade stock:D. Making blades is easier than you think trust me. You want a tools list? www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_465469_465469THAT"S IT. Maybe a few more pads for the grinder but that's it. Most makers start out stock removal, MUCH less of a learning curve then forging. Sam, What tools/devices/ovens are available for the heat treating and tempering of the blades? Got a good list for that one or do we need to build some kind of oven for that?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2007 5:25:35 GMT
You can use certain types of pottery kilns, anyone of them that can go up to atleast 1700F, and be controlled with a digital controller, that is the best way, either on they're own or using accompanying salt tanks from www.elliscustomknifeworks.comOr when you get a bit of expeirience, or put in the time and learn you can use your forge, be it gas or charcoal or coal. You are looking at spending about 5 or 6 grand to get a nice salt tank setup but then it is as easy as dip, hang for 10 minutes, pull out and dip again, hang out for 5 minutes, then dip, then temper for 2 hours and you are done, pretty close to fool proof and highly consistent. The forge technique has of course been proven and been around for thousands of years if not more, but take a careful eye and hand.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2007 10:48:19 GMT
Sam: although it is stupidly expensive to get steel from admiral if you live in Australia
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2007 14:28:36 GMT
You want steel in AUS you talk to brenno he has found the best place it seems.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Nov 23, 2007 14:55:17 GMT
Buy some 1095 from Admiral. Sam how many times do we have to say this? My steel is like $13 for a 1.2m length of XK9258S Sup 8 Spring steel which kicks ass. How many times do I have to say that hey? But yeah, importing is only a last resort in Australia. For the same steel from Admiral We'd be looking at about $180. $160 of that being post, the rest being the dodgy exchange rate.
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