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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2007 4:41:38 GMT
A couple years ago on myrmoury we had a discussion about using an oxy/MAPP setup to hot peen a tang. There was never any resolution, as no one had tried it. I know Albion hot peens with an oxy/acetylene rig, but I'm still wondering if a portable oxy/MAPP rig would also do the job? Dan? Anyone? Specifically, this is what I'm thinking of: www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=BernzoProd100044 I linked to it in graham's thread about his custom fuchi/kashira and it got me to thinking about it again.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 16, 2007 8:18:29 GMT
I don't know anything about hot peening. Obviously when you introduce heat to the steel it can change it's chracteristics (or so I hear).
I've had no trouble cold peening my Practical Viking tang, and my home made falchion tang. Both of which were ginormous tangs.
By 'no trouble' I mean nothing that some psychopathic violence, a chisel, a hammer and a very thick block of wood for the tip couldn't remedy.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2007 22:00:53 GMT
By 'no trouble' I mean nothing that some psychopathic violence, a chisel, a hammer and a very thick block of wood for the tip couldn't remedy. Sounds like fun. ;D As far as heat changing the metal, I'm hoping Dan or one of our other smiths could discuss that a bit. If a small oxy/MAPP torch provides sufficient heat to make the peening process easier, I'd like some advice on how the heat should be applied so I don't fry the tang or anything. Obviously, I'd be doing this on a blade where I'd be putting the grip on in halves (after the peening), so I wouldn't have to worry about toasting the wood, I'd just need to know how I should protect the rest of the blade from heating up and "untempering." There used to be a good pic at Albion of one of the guys hot peening a tang, but I don't remember any specifics, other than the blade was in a vice (obviously to hold it in place, but perhaps also to help transfer heat away from the blade?).
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 17, 2007 2:23:11 GMT
What job is it you are doing, given that you have to construct a handle and peen on the pommel?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2007 3:06:09 GMT
Nothing at the moment. I'm just thinking ahead to a future project.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2007 13:42:56 GMT
Heating up the end of the tang won't do anything but make it tougher, considering you quenched the ENTIRE blade tang and all. In which case you will have to soften the tang with some heat anyway to get it to peen over. A propane torch like this one that can use mapp gas or propane will work JUST PERFECTLY, And will also make a great little beginner knifemaking forge: www.zoellerforge.com/miniforge.htmlThat will serve all your hobby blade modifiying needs. As brenno said though if the tang was never hardened there is no need, unless you want a rosette or some other artistic peen which looks pretty cool.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2007 21:52:14 GMT
Thanks for the reply, Sam. I've practiced peening some cheap dagger tangs (Atlanta Cutlery bare blade types) which were unhardened, and it's not too difficult just cold peening with a ball peen hammer, but I thought maybe heating the end of the tang would temporarily make it even more maleable and easier. Good to know, at least, that such a torch is adequate for softening the tang up in a case where the entire blade has been hardened. That mini forge is great, especially the modded one at the bottom. That's really slick. I might get the local welding shop to cook one up for me. Thanks for the link.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2007 0:22:18 GMT
kreigschwert,
Figure out how you are going to secure the blade while peening. Submerge the blade in water (capped length of PVC) and heat the end of the tang. My oppinion is to use oxy/act, or oxy/mapp, to heat the end to be peened to a a bright red. If the blade is properly secured; the peening should be easy. Good luck!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2007 1:57:26 GMT
Thanks, unabashed. I would be clamping the blade in my bench vise (with some pieces of wood as padding). That method you mentioned would be perfect, as I could cut the pipe so that it comes from the floor to the bottom of the vise. Great idea!
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