Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 20:31:17 GMT
So, the main sword I use has a black blade that is hard to rust, though I still clean off the water after bottle cutting anyway of course. My other blades are not like this, and I'm afraid to use them because I don't want them to rust. Any tips?
|
|
Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
|
Post by Talon on Mar 11, 2011 20:37:31 GMT
oil :lol: joking aside ,as long as you dry the blade off after cutting and give it a good wipe over with an oily cloth
(i just use a light mineral oil ie 3 in 1) and ive never had any worries with rust,its a shame not to use all youre swords ,i wouldnt worry too much about corrossion as long as you wipe youre swords as soon as youve finished with them
|
|
|
|
Post by 14thforsaken on Mar 11, 2011 20:47:46 GMT
Use 3 in 1 oil. What I would do is after using the sword, wipe it down with 90% pure rubbing alcohol to remove the old oil and any other gunk that may have gotten on the blade and then put a light coat of oil on the blade. Depending on the climate where you are you probably should clean off the old oil and re-oil about once a month. If its really humid, maybe once every two weeks. Its fairly dry where I am and I re-oil my blades about once a month. Doesn't take very long and that's with about 50 blades to do if I count all the swords, daggers and such I have.
|
|
|
|
Post by chrisperoni on Mar 11, 2011 20:48:33 GMT
Yep, wipe 'n oil. I Use a cloth that will absorb well- cotton usually. I aslo subscribe to the 'oil soaked cloth for oiling the blade' method. Keep mine in a ziploc bag and it's just for final oiling of a cleaned blade.
Taking apart your sword will help in cleaning it but truthfullt I never take my katanas apart- too much work relative to my hanwei/tinker- and I don;t want to loosen the tsuka (hilt) more than I have to.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 21:05:07 GMT
I see...can someone post a link to some of this oil, preferably a store that accepts paypal? I've been collecting since I was 12, but only got into using my weapons when i was about 17-18. Namely, I recently bought an awesome hunting/trench knife I want to try out, but it's just so beautiful I'm afraid to, ya know?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 21:11:36 GMT
I bought mine for around $5 at the local Walgreens; you shouldn't have any trouble finding 3-in-1 locally.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 21:16:29 GMT
ah, ok. It's an oil for vehicles then? I'm not much on vehicles, unless they're ATVs. The only oil I have is some Opti 2, but I'll look around our garage. Place is like a freakin' pawn shop. lhaha
|
|
|
|
Post by 14thforsaken on Mar 11, 2011 21:20:49 GMT
Its a machine oil. Lots of people use it for sewing machines and the like. You can find it in pretty much any store that sells hardware. Wal-Mart should carry it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 21:23:26 GMT
I found a can of WD40, which is also a light machine oil. Will this work?
|
|
|
|
Post by Adrian Jordan on Mar 11, 2011 22:32:33 GMT
www.sevenstarstrading.com. They sell decent sized bottles of sword oil for cheap, and the shipping is cheap too. I got 2 bottles and paid less after shipping than one bottle of other sword oil.
|
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Mar 12, 2011 3:15:21 GMT
If you do not want your swords to rust, DO NOT use WD-40. As counter intuitive as this seems, WD-40 will cause rust if it's let sitting. But if you want to order something online, you NEED to check out Militech-1. www.militec1.com/miva/merchant.m ... ory_Code=1 This stuff is like magic. One forum member only cleans and oils his blades once ever 6 months. He'd cut with them daily, heck, he'd abuse them weekly (cutting fruit and other acidic things) and there were no ill effects to the blade. The grease is probably what you need, as the oil tends to wear off after a couple hundred bottles unless you heat the oil on. But for no nonsense, rust free blades, Militech-1 Is the way to go. |
|
|
|
Post by Maynar on Mar 12, 2011 3:45:38 GMT
Don't use any petroleum product like 10W30 or anything like that- bad juju. Light mineral oil from the local drugstore, and 99% isopropyl alcohol from same is what I use. Cheap and easy. Greg, thanks for the tip on Militec! Looks interesting, gonna get me a tube or three.  |
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Mar 12, 2011 4:32:55 GMT
If you go the grease route, you can get 14oz of the stuff for 12 bucks! Granted, it's in the tube form, but I was going to just take some out of the tube and put it into a smaller container for use and store the rest in the tube.
If you get the oil, you may have to heat up your blade a little when applying it. I'm not sure, ask Sam H, he turned me onto the stuff. He uses grease for his swords and oil/grease for his guns.
|
|
|
|
Post by 14thforsaken on Mar 12, 2011 5:04:55 GMT
The other thing you can use for long term storage is Vasoline.
|
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Mar 12, 2011 6:38:59 GMT
Well, Vaseline is fine for storage, but on a sword that you are afraid to use because it might get rust on it, the vaseline isn't the best. I'm sure it would work, but you'd have to reapply it after ever session. According to Sam H, you don't need to reapply militech
|
|
|
|
Post by 14thforsaken on Mar 12, 2011 7:28:24 GMT
I only use it for long term storage. I have store blades for 5 years or more with vaseline and there was no rust. I just mentioned it as a possibility for storage in case he ever needed to do so. I know the miltec stuff is good but a lot of people already have vaseline around.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sir Tre on Mar 12, 2011 18:38:29 GMT
clean and polish your sword as you would normally, then wipe it well with a cloth saturated in 91% rubbing alcohol. after this let it dry... this type alcohol dries rapidly, so air moisture wont be as bad a problem. then generously spray with Dupont Teflon multi use dry wax lubricant. after the spray turns to a waxy look (since at first it looks liquid) use a paper towel to wipe off excess, leaving a light film. it is kinda like renwax in a can. of course tis is better for long term storage, if you leave it heavy and dont wipe excess. the film is not too bad but will not show the shine as well on a high polish sword. i have one sword i display with no sheath that is done this way. but it has satin finish. also i think i pay like 5 buck a can for this stuff.
as for something a little more temporary and that will show the high polish finish, try REMOIL, gun oil
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2011 19:04:54 GMT
I used some WD40 earlier, but I cleaned it off after polishing, so it should be fine. Thanks everyone.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sir Tre on Mar 12, 2011 21:33:04 GMT
that is great as a lub with wet dry sandpaper for rust removal... but it is mostly solvent, and will not do well for keeping rust from happening, unless you use it like twice a day or something.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2011 21:53:55 GMT
Couple items not mentioned yet:
-I had some pipes stored in a suit-case, and another set in a box.
In the suit-case, same damp room, when opened, the suit-case set had NO rust, the Box had plenty of rust...
I had put a bunch of those "Do Not Eat" Silica gel packs from shoeboxes and food items in the suit-case.
(fairly long-term storage too).
-Another favorite of mine is silicon spray. It's sold as a "lubricant" like Wd-40 (which does not prevent rust) ...But I use it on chrome, electrical connections, inside locks, detailing my MC, etc. etc. etc. Great stuff, cheap too.
-BTW, funny off-topic :I worked with a guy who had owned a Daewoo assualt rifle, and he said he'd cleaned it with WD-40 and it got inside the gas piston tube, and it blew up the tube when he fired it!!!
|
|
Herron's Flight by Brendan of Fable Blades
