Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 19:52:15 GMT
Hi all, first post here. Tried trawling the forum for answer but couldn't find one in the archives. Ok, so i have a question regarding sharpening with sandpaper, I checked Tom's video and it was very informative but it didn't answer what i want to know. Tom started on 400 or 600 grit i believe and went up to 2000. But i think this was for a dull edge, i was wondering if you already have a sharpish edge and just want to give it the extra sharpness to become paper cutting sharp would you skip the more coarse grits and maybe start on the finer ones since there is already an edge established? Any insight would be appreciated, thanks.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 11, 2011 19:55:19 GMT
Tom's video is assuming that the blade already has an edge profile, and you just need to bring the sharpness up. If you are starting with an unsharpened factory edge, then you'd need to start with files or stones.
With Tom's method, you can achieve paper cutting sharp with the 400 grit paper and if you get the hang of it, you can even get up to hair grabbing sharp with the 400.
So if you aren't at paper cutting sharp, go with the 400. Heck, you could probably even start at the 600, but it would take longer.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 19:57:40 GMT
Thanks for the reply Greg, thats pretty much all i needed to know, not knowing if the 400 grit was starting with an edge or not.
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Post by bleachsword on Mar 12, 2011 2:07:03 GMT
make sure you are using a waterproof paper ment for metal
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Post by mikeS on Mar 12, 2011 8:36:43 GMT
thats key....goood paper! automotive style!! good luck with it man...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2011 23:42:48 GMT
Thanks guys, almost done. Taking quite a bit longer than i thought though. Would use the belt sander method but it seems you cant get belts with a grit any finer than 200 in England LOL.
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Mar 13, 2011 0:14:11 GMT
Lee valley won't ship to the UK? I bet it would be pricey but I don't see why they wouldn't. if you check my tutorial thread in my sig I have links. 200 grit is more for stock removal and shaping than sharpening.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 13, 2011 3:12:32 GMT
i give up trying to sharpen mine,...i used the exact paper in the tutorial and did everything but it still ended up no sharper. it just bats bottles allover the place. its gonna stay crowbar sharp until i find someone who can sharpen it
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 13, 2011 7:18:18 GMT
Saito, depending on where you live, I'm sure that if one of us was in the area, we could stop by and offer some tips.
Even tho that Tom's vids are the best ANYWHERE for sword sharpening tutorials, there is still a lot of info that can't be conveyed through video alone.
Ask Tom, when I was first learning how to sharpen, I ended up making my edges duller. I probably sent 50 PM's to him within the span of a week on what I'm doing wrong or why it's not working the way it should. At the end of the day, I just had to "put my noes to the grindstone" as it where. I was so afraid of doing it wrong that I couldn't do it right.
Once I get around to finding a good dagger, I'll bring that puppy up to Tom-Sharp level, and then make a charming video of me shaving with it.
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Post by bleachsword on Mar 13, 2011 8:04:20 GMT
show some pictures so we may see how it turned out and maby why it is batting bottles
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2011 15:21:47 GMT
You may just not be doing it long enough, it took me like 8 hours over the past couple of days to get it sharp, sharpening by hand is a lot slower than using machine.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 13, 2011 15:36:59 GMT
i think ill just buy the belt sander Tom linked...39 bucks u cant beat that
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Mar 13, 2011 20:30:23 GMT
the belt sander is a great tool but remember it can ruin things in a hurry if you aren't very careful. I suggest starting on a blade close to the hilt where it is thicker to give yourself a little room for error but still start out with very light pressure and check your work very often. in fact I would reccomend applying the belt for only a second or two before looking at it the first time just so you can see how much is being done right away. it is better to go slow and catch mistakes before they become big mistakes than to hurry on ahead and hope.
start with the 500-ish grit, if you get your belts the same place I do the web site calls it 500 grit but the belt is marked 20 micron.
for sand paper the bigest mistake new people make is either running the paper the wrong direction accross the edge or not following the bevel all the way to the edge. you may be polishing the main bevel but not getting all the way down to the edge. check your scratch pattern to make sure it is nice and even.
if you are holding the blade in your hand and moving it over your abrasive then you might want to try clamping the blade to a table edge and working the paper over the blade. I find this is easier and safer and this is how I do it now when I sharpen by hand.
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Post by ShooterMike on Mar 15, 2011 19:49:51 GMT
This is the way I've always done it. I could never get it sharp the other way.
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Post by chuckinohio on Mar 15, 2011 21:48:10 GMT
Pay good heed to Toms advice above, especially if you have never sharpened a blade on a belt sander before. You can get in trouble in a hurry.
I would even suggest starting on a practice piece of steel, so that you get a feel for whats happening and how quickly it can happen.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2011 6:09:49 GMT
Just a side note, I picked up the belt sander on sale for just under $40 and I also found free shipping on the belts at the joint TomK linked to in his article. Good time to strike.
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Mar 25, 2011 21:04:52 GMT
good move trunkmunk, that belt sander is a great little tool for sharpening. just be careful how you torq on the tensioner knob. I broke mine off pretty easily. now I have to tension the belt with a pair of vise-grips.
remember to go slow and check your work often especially at first.
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