Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2011 0:52:51 GMT
Hey guys i just bought a new blade the Windlass Pugio so now i gotta sharpen it!
I have only sharpened one blade before...i used an accusharp which butchered it big time :cry: i later somewhat fixed it with a file...I see alot of people use sandpaper so i decided to give it a shot on an old beat up stainless steel dagger i had. I only had 60 grit sandpaper lying around so i used that. the blade was completly dull when i started and now it is indeed quite sharp i can cut paper with it.
so my question is is there a particular brand/type of sandpaper i should be using or can i just pick up any kind of sandpaper from home depot? also what grits should i get and what should i use on it after i finish sharpening it so it doesnt look like i dragged the blade halfway down the street. the blade i have is wasp waisted so would that be more difficult to sharpen properly like will there be more room for error? i just dont want to screw up another blade :oops:
Thanks!
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 5, 2011 1:18:48 GMT
To establish an edge, I usually start with a draw file, then a really low grit sand paper 120 or so.
Your better bet for high grit papers would be an automotive store. My local hardware store only carries up to 400, and that's if I'm lucky.
But after I establish the edge with the 120, I then move to 400 to start the polishing. I work it from different angles, then usually move right on up to 1000. This is where I generally stop. Some people take it on up to 4000 and beyond, but I find that all I need is 400 and 1000 grits.
Oh, and another note. I always use some sort of lubrication when I polish/sharpen. I find that it keeps the paper usable for longer, and it gives a nice sandy paste that you can still use, even if your paper is totally spent.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2011 4:04:52 GMT
cool thx for the info, what kind of lube do you use?
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Post by Elheru Aran on Mar 5, 2011 14:34:53 GMT
Grady's Auto Shop, 19.99 special... Oh, not *that* kind of lube  Most people use 3-n-1 oil, but some use water, it depends on what kind of paper you're using. Some can take oil, some are supposed to only be used with water, you can use some without any lubrication. If you're concerned about a recurved blade, use a narrow piece of wood or a dowel and wrap the paper around it. That'll let you cover the curve of the blade without too much trouble. |
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Mar 5, 2011 16:14:56 GMT
generally any decent wet/dry automotive paper can handle oil as well as water. I find that using the paper dry makes it cut more aggressively than wet but wears it out faster while wet with water is more aggressive and less long lasting than oil. oil lubricated paper gives the smoothest finish.
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Post by RicWilly on Mar 5, 2011 19:15:55 GMT
I'd add that I get that precut wetdry sandpaper from Wal-mart's automotive section (the kind that fits on those rubber block thingies). They have grits up to 2000 or so.
I sharpened a Windlass Pugio a couple years ago. I started with a file, then used a stone and went to the sandpaper. I got it paper cutting sharp using those but it took a while.
I got my H/F beltsander around that time and finished it off with that. This was the result.
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Post by Anders on Mar 6, 2011 2:38:30 GMT
You know, I've tried sharpening with sandpaper but I could never get the hang of it. I kept feeling like I did more harm then good to the edge. Having tried an accusharp-type device before, I'd say they are decent for aquiring a very basic edge. Personally, I'd go for a combo of power file and light accusharping to do the rough shaping, and then sandpaper for general polishing, then finish the fine edge with an actual knife sharpener. One of these:  But that's just me. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2011 4:15:03 GMT
thx for the info and nice vid...i think the sandpaper method will work for me, i definetly will not use an accusharp again it almost made me shed a single tear the last time
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 6, 2011 4:32:22 GMT
Just a single one? Oh, and Anders, oddly enough, while working on a rapier tip last night, I was passing through the kitchen and looked at my own rod sharpener and thought "AH HAH!" I was at a point where I still needed to take off a decent amount of metal, but the file I was using was just to coarse. The sharpening rod works perfectly! While it still is a straight edge, I just kept changing my angle of approach and it gave me a fantastic lenticular shape. I may try and use the thing to knock off the secondary bevel on my Hanwei/Tinker Longsword. |
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