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Post by Kaliber Fang on Mar 3, 2011 16:56:42 GMT
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 3, 2011 17:10:48 GMT
Well, I don't have much experience with sharpening kits or types of cloth. I use various grits of sand paper to sharpen my blades and just use a cotton hand towel to apply oil and clean of scuffs.
As for the accusharp,
Accusharps put a false edge on your blade. This edge is brittle and can even chip against targets like water bottles. This is especially true if you are using it on a differentially hardened katana. The edge of a katana is around 60 on the rockwell scale, which is to say that it is more brittle then traditional European swords that hover around 50.
If you use an accusharp, your cuts won't seem fluid. A 30 degree angle that an accusharp puts on an edge will smack the target as much as cut it.
I'm sure you'll find that many of us will tell you to use a different sharpening method if you care about the health of your sword.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 3, 2011 17:29:31 GMT
What Greg said.  Try a forum search for accu sharp, accusharp, accu-sharp to see more about them. With sharpening stones you really get what you pay for. Lower costing stones will last for less time and may leave a rougher finish even if the sharpen well enough. I've heard the Masahiro kit is a decent value for what you get- as in ok stones for a relatively low price- not great stones for a low price- but I've never tried them. I use the Tom K' method found here: www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sharpen-a-sword.htmlwith sandpaper and 3 in 1 oil. This can be picked up at any auto parts supply store. |
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Mar 3, 2011 18:27:50 GMT
id also avoid the accusharp (or any mechanical method bar a slack belt sander for western blades) i use the sand papaer method like tomk uses,then i tend to touch the edges up with ceramic stones (medium if its needing a somewhat sturdier edge,or medium then fine if i want the edge to have extra bite) accusharps should be a BIG NO NO the creamic stones are off my spyderco tri angle sharpener forgot to mention diamond stones i do use them ,though not as much as the ceramic ones |
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Post by Joeandmich on Mar 3, 2011 18:56:20 GMT
I find that a buffing wheel attachment with the proper polishing stick will take away almost any scratch and put a nice shine too
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Mar 3, 2011 19:23:43 GMT
well i do use one for the chrome on my bike  ,id be very carefull using one for a flat surface like a sword (especially if the wheels rotating at speed) if youre not very carefull you can easily dish out the blade (especially if using a first stage polishing soap) think of a very soft grinding wheel against youre blade :? if it works for you joeandmich then alls good (i do admit i dont have a lot of experience with buffing wheels) so i tend to stick with finer grades of wet and dry (i prefer a less shiny finish on my swords) |
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Mar 3, 2011 20:05:33 GMT
Hey guys. I was wondering; what about Japanese waterstones? Do they work for sword polishing? From what I understand about them it would seem to me that they'd be too abrasive. They work well for knives, but does anybody know what kind of stones Japanese polisher use?
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Mar 4, 2011 6:17:04 GMT
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Post by masahiro560 on Mar 4, 2011 16:19:42 GMT
Japanese Waterstones are actually not that abrasive unless you are thinking of the first stage stone called the arato... which has an equivalent of carborundum #180...
These are the list of stones that a Togishi (Japanese sword polisher) would use
Arato
Binsui-do
Kaisei-do
Chu-Nagura Do
Koma-Nagura Do
and Uchigomori Do
Then There is also different types of Uchigomori-do
Generally there are two kinds
one used for the Ha(Edge with Hamon)
and one used for the ji (The area at the shinogi-ji or the area atop the ridge line of a japanese sword)
That's for the foundation polish
The foundation polish is where the sword gets sharp
For the finishing polish which brings out the best of the details in a japanese sword (This part would be useless on a non differentially hardened sword)
Hazuya
Jizuya
Both are derived from the Uchigomori do
Then Nugui which is a mixture of choji oil and finely ground iron scales that came off sword forging
It could be possible to polish a western style sword using the japanese process...
Just my opinion though
If they could polish a yari they could polish a longsword......
For cloths... I just take out a towel out of the cabinet and wipe my sword with it :lol:
For accusharps I'm pretty sure paul has a video of him sharpening a western styled sword with an accusharp....
I use Sandpaper for polishing my iaito though, but it lacks the "Tasty feeling" japanese polishing stones could bring out
(Same as urushi and cashew urushi >.> Urushi is tastier than Cashew Urushi, wait what? :shock: )
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 4, 2011 16:48:59 GMT
they need to invent a accusharp type devce that lets you control the angle of the edge so you can give a nice edge without an extreme bevel.
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Post by Major, Cory J on Mar 4, 2011 17:25:16 GMT
They do sort of. Its for smaller knives and it makes them LAZER SHARP (yes, I know Laser is spelled with an S, but thats how sharp it gets them, you need a new word!) I am currently working on a plan to make one of these thats big enough for my swords, it holds the blade and the stone, allowing only the stone to be moved, but it will hold the same angle the whole time. Called the EdgePro (Apex model shown)  www.edgeproinc.com/ |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2011 18:30:25 GMT
I dunno, this video seems to show him sharpening something around the size of a machete. Is there any reason that would work on say, an EMSHS? |
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 4, 2011 18:45:50 GMT
Ok, the thing about the accusharp or even that Apex whatnot up there is that it puts a straight edge on a blade. This edge will be brittle.  As you can see, the edges travel in a straight line until they meet. Yes, this will be sharp, yes you can cut through bottles and other things with it, but the moment you hit your stand with slightly less then perfect alignment, your edge will probably shatter. There is no way you can form an edge like this, with an accusharp:  You MIGHT be able to form this type of edge with the Apex, but you'd have to constantly adjust the angle by a fraction of an inch. And if you have enough patience to do this, then you have enough patience to sit down with some sand paper. The pictures you see here are from Walt's sword talk. He covers some fundamentals of swords in a very easy to read format. www.waltsswordtalk.com/ |
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Post by Major, Cory J on Mar 5, 2011 0:50:29 GMT
Greg, I agree that you can't achieve a "good" edge with the accusharp. You can with the edgePro, I have used the APEX unit above (wish I owned it but don't). I put one wicked edge on my work knife (I am a Chef for those who don't know), I use that sucker all the time at work for everything just about. weather I am deboning a lamb leg, chopping through turkey bones, beef bones, or even deer bones. Then cutting paper thin slices of Gravlax (Cured Salmon) or chopping extremely woody stems on herbs with dirt, and other misc. hard objects. I have never chipped an edge, nor have any of my coworkers. And we are not the "dainty" chefs you may see on some of those fairy cooking shows, we COOK and WORK for a living (god I hate those TV "celebrity" chefs..... Anyhow back to topic).
You can make a nice edge with the APEX, you just sharpen your one angle, all the way along the edge. Then come back and with the slightly different angle, shouldn't have to constantly change the angle just twice really.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 5, 2011 1:22:30 GMT
Hey, it doesn't bother me if someone took their Albion to a cinder block. It their sword and they can do what they want.
And yes, going back a second time with the Apex would help strengthen the edge, and the more times you go back, the more lenticular the edge will become. But I personally would never use these products to sharpen my swords.
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Post by LittleJP on Mar 5, 2011 6:07:22 GMT
I use coarse/fine axe stone, then a fine/extra fine diamond stone/
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Post by Krelian on Mar 6, 2011 7:25:33 GMT
There is such a thing! At least for knives... EDIT: Nevermind, Major beat me to it. (That's what I get for not reading page 2...)
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Post by wnydel on Mar 9, 2011 14:30:40 GMT
If you have used an accusharp once on a blade, is it forever altered, or can you use sand paper to fix it up a bit? I have the feeling I know the answer, but am hoping I might be able to undo some of the affects of the accusharp. Thanks
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Post by Elheru Aran on Mar 9, 2011 15:57:13 GMT
Not forever, but you will have to use sandpaper to clean it up a little bit. The thing that people don't like about the accusharp is the bevels it puts on the edge. A number of people actually use both, though-- they start the edge with the accusharp, and then they sand away the bevel. This is somewhat iffy because you're dealing with an edge that is *already* sharp, so the chances of cutting yourself are somewhat increased, but it's one way to do it...
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Post by Kaliber Fang on Mar 29, 2011 4:37:23 GMT
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,id be very carefull using one for a flat surface like a sword (especially if the wheels rotating at speed) if youre not very carefull you can easily dish out the blade (especially if using a first stage polishing soap) think of a very soft grinding wheel against youre blade :? 
Nov 1, 2024 0:13:58 GMT
Nov 1, 2024 0:13:58 GMT
