|
Post by armchairwarrior on Jan 31, 2011 2:42:28 GMT
Just as the title says, this an idea of mine for a stupidly simple 'tacticool' knife, portrayed life size. The funny thing is, when I made this I had not seen the Becker BK-7. Still, I wanted to try something even more bare bones, that anybody could sharpen on anything, even a cinderblock if needed. That's why I went this the Americanized tanto tip, something much easier to sharpen than a curved belly. The whole blade would have a full flat grind, from bevel to edge. The beefy 1/4" thickness of the blade would allow for durability despite the full flat grind. The handle would have simple scales removable with a flat-head screwdriver, allowing for a paracord wrap if desired. The user would be allowed to choke up on the blade, using the hole past the guard and the heavily jimped thumb riser to maintain a good grip for delicate tasks.
|
|
Sam H
Member
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by Sam H on Jan 31, 2011 5:08:44 GMT
I like it although I'd immediately take the micarta scales off and throw away the screws. I'm pretty rough on my fixed blade knives and as such anything that isn't riveted on falls off after several months of use. Aside from that I like it and had dreamed of something similar but having no design or artistic ability at all I couldn't put it in a form people could see.
The only question I have is why would you need the short edge on the back side of the tip of the knife? One of the benefits of the chisel tip on a knife is the strength of the tip for penetration. Wouldn't putting the reverse edge on it weaken the tip (not that it would probably matter unless you're stabbing into a tree, steel drum or something similar).
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Jan 31, 2011 5:43:17 GMT
Really it was a cosmetic choice, plus I figured it would aid in penetration. Good point about it possibly weakening the tip, though. Here's a mockup without the double edged tip:
|
|
Sam H
Member
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by Sam H on Jan 31, 2011 5:50:17 GMT
Both versions look nice. Personally I'd go for the second version - I like it a lot but I'd definitely not snub my nose at the first version either. So when does it go into production?
|
|
ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
|
Post by ghost on Jan 31, 2011 7:31:10 GMT
The only problem I see is the groove for the index finger will hurt to grip. Some combat knives have this feature jutting out between the index and third finger, but they tend to be very smooth and narrow. I have handled them, and the metal bracing up tightly against the upper half of your third finger is pretty discomforting.
Gripping this tightly will hurt and thrusting with it will be even more painful. I recommend just removing that index groove (make it solid) to become an integrated guard.
|
|
|
Post by teclis22 on Jan 31, 2011 11:15:49 GMT
i like the 2nd sketch better as well. the tip should be more stable and slightly easier to maintain, especially if you choose a scandi grind thingy.
i would concider adding a 2nd lanyard hole right behind the blade (on the guard so to speak) so you can make a hand protection from para cord, similar as seen on the busse knives.
tec
|
|
Sam H
Member
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by Sam H on Jan 31, 2011 13:14:08 GMT
I thought of that too but then I'd also handled some knives that had the finger grove on them and choked up on it with my index finger in the grove and found it wasn't so uncomfortable and even after thrusting into a wood plank it didn't hurt my hands. I personally prefer a knife without a finger groove as such and just an integrated guard but this isn't bad in my mind. Like I said before I like it and would buy it if it went into production (provided the price isn't ridiculous).
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Jan 31, 2011 21:23:06 GMT
Oh, the finger groove isn't meant to be used for the standard grip. All four fingers would be able to grip within the section with the micarta, with the thumb on the thumb rest. Choking up and using the finger notch would only be for fine tasks, like making fuzz sticks or something.
This isn't actually a production item, I have no means to make it. I imagine it would be pretty cheap given the simplicity of the design. If I were Cold Steel or something, I'd put somewhere at 20-30 bucks.
|
|
Sébastien
Senior Forumite
Retired Moderator
Posts: 2,967
|
Post by Sébastien on Feb 1, 2011 2:17:18 GMT
Hello Armchairwarrior !
I like your design. It seems like a nice, tough-looking tanto-shaped knife.
Personnaly, I think mass-producing a knife like this one would likely cost at least 35-40 $, due to the overall lenght and the level of details.
My two cents on that, hope it helps man. Again, good job for the nice design.
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Feb 1, 2011 2:52:42 GMT
Thank you!
And that much? Yikes! I guess that makes sense though, as it would be a bit on the big side... I didn't think such a simple design would cost so much to make.
|
|
Sébastien
Senior Forumite
Retired Moderator
Posts: 2,967
|
Post by Sébastien on Feb 1, 2011 3:01:44 GMT
35-40 $ Isn't that much IMO (I say that now that I've seen some custom makers and high-end companies selling 4'' blade knives for 200 bucks and more). Small details like the size of the blade, the finger notch, the thumb ramp can easily increase a knife's cost. These details don't seem much at first sight but take time to be grinded and made.
But I don't think that's much of a problem. I like your design and I think it would make a nice tacticool knife.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2011 5:48:56 GMT
If the idea behind this knife is for tact purposes, the notch isn't for the forefinger. It's for the baby finger. You hold it in a "stab" grip with the blade protruding from the back of your hand and the edge facing outward. The swedge on the first design would keep the penetration nice and straight and eliminate deflection. If you go holding a knife "switchblade" style with the blade sticking out the front of your hand, anyone worth their salt will have it in your own kidney in about a half a second. Anyhow, I like the design.
|
|
|
Post by teclis22 on Feb 1, 2011 14:28:41 GMT
Dodger can you recommend any literature on this topic ? I understand the Ice pick grip from historical perspektives as you had to penetrate armor. But on a modern environment i always thought the "hide behind your knife in fist grip" is the recommended way to go. What little bit i did read on the subject was that disarming a knife/using it to attack the attacker and similar manouvers are -very- difficult to do. so any more background information would be really cool tec
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Feb 1, 2011 23:22:49 GMT
Here, just to clear up any confusion about the little finger notch: This grip is meant to gain greater control over the blade for delicate tasks like whittling. The index finger would be behind the guard for normal use, aka chopping, fighting, what have you.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2011 1:59:27 GMT
Armchairwarrior, this is probably just a matter of differing terminology. My understanding is that you've designed a tactical knife. In other words, it's used for fighting as well as survival tasks. You're right about the forefinger notch giving greater control when accomplishing various tool like tasks. But for fighting, you need to be able to hold the knife in a reverse grip. That's when the notch changes roles. It now becomes an anchor point that prevents the knife from being taken from you and gives you control when you roll the wrist towards you for an eye slash. And teclis22, here's a couple of books that might interest you: THE COMPLETE BLADESMITH Forging Your Way to Perfection by Jim Hrisoulas The Complete Bladesmith will show you how to take a bar of steel and forge it into the blade of your dreams. Build your own forge, equip your workshop, choose your materials and get to work. You'll jump at the chance to heat the steel, bending, twisting, folding, cutting and stretching it. Finally, you'll put the perfect grind on the new blade, make your own scrimshaw, fit the softest, hardest or most exotic wood to the grip and slip your blade into your handmade sheath. Whether you want a survival blade, commando dagger, medieval broadsword or just a utility knife, it's all here. 8 1/2 x 11, hardcover, 58 photos, 101 illus., 192 pp. ISBN 0-87364-430-1....................$35.00 THE COMPLETE BOOK OF KNIFE FIGHTING by William L. Cassidy The classic on close-quarter knife fighting. Part I outlines the development of realistic combat techniques as taught by men like W.E. Fairbairn, Col. Rex Applegate, A.J.D. Biddle and John Styers. Part II takes a look at the "tools of the trade" -- sturdy, effective fighting knives that can withstand the rigors of close-in battle. Part III is the instructional meat of the book -- sneak attacks, backstabbing, throat cutting, slashes, thrusts, tactical feints and movement, practical knife defense and a unique study of proper mental discipline during knife combat. 5 1/2 x 8 1/2, hardcover, photos, illus., 136 pp. For academic study only. ISBN 0-87364-029-2....................$25.00
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Feb 2, 2011 3:38:42 GMT
Never thought of using the guard as an anchor point... While it definitely is a fighting knife, when I designed it I had a tough beater knife in mind. Something you could baton logs with, hack at saplings, hammer tent stakes, and all sorts of other stuff better suited for a hammer or hatchet! :lol: Kind of wish I could actually make it to try that grip!
|
|
|
Post by teclis22 on Feb 2, 2011 13:38:57 GMT
thanks for the literature recommendation. i orderend the 2nd one. will be interesting to read. i still think fighting is comperativly simple in its basic foundation and not rocket science so maybe even i will be able to comprehend it tec
|
|
|
Post by Opferous on Feb 5, 2011 17:11:37 GMT
If your goal is to make it an outdoor knife, I would keep the choil (the finger notch). It is a good point, though, that you need some sort of stop if the knife will be used in a reverse grip. Here's an idea: If you place a small mini-guard, you create a groove which will allow you to choke up in the choil or keep back for chopping purposes. With a more drastic curvature of the choil, you can comfortably put your little finger around the integrated guard when in reverse and still have an effective slope to prevent your finger from slipping. Also put the pseudo-clip point tanto look, since it's fairly viable for a tactical knife. Just brought back the point a little to increase the strength. Also, Tec: Another interesting variation on reverse grip is the inward reverse grip popularized by p'kal, which is derived from Filipino martial arts. Works better with small knives. Some DVDs on it are available at www.shivworks.com. I'll see if I can dig up any texts. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by armchairwarrior on Feb 11, 2011 23:28:01 GMT
By jove, I think Opferous has got it! I think with your changes it's a much more viable design now!
If anyone wants to try their hand at making this sometime, have at it. Creative Commons! :lol:
|
|