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Post by Maynar on Jan 29, 2011 23:11:51 GMT
I have a Windlass Heavy Cavalry saber (the Wristbreaker) and I need to adjust the scabbard throat. It's way too loose. On my katanas I simply shim the koiguchi, but this is a steel scabbard. There are two adjusting screws that I thought would do the job. Come today I tried it, and the screws are useless. There doesn't seem to be any threads in the scabbard, because the screws just spin and do not move in or out.  The fit is way too sloppy and the sword slides out much too easily. I need to tighten this up but I have no idea how to do it with a metal scabbard. Little help? Thanks |
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Post by Dave Kelly on Jan 30, 2011 2:37:08 GMT
Go to a craft store and get some balsa wood 1/16th inch roughly long enough and wide enough to match the scabbard. Use a box knife to cut a form aproximating the sword blade. Stick it in the scabbard. Oh, keep the wood dry. If you oil it up it will swell and disintegrate.
Anoth option would be to pry the throat piece out and crimp the tongs, but getting the whole thing back together isn't worth the effort.
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Post by MEversbergII on Jan 30, 2011 6:45:45 GMT
Get a 1/4 inch or so wide piece of steel and a hammer. Dent the scabbard.
M.
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Post by Freebooter on Feb 28, 2011 2:28:38 GMT
Hello all,
I have had several MRL cav sabres, and repro sabers from other "sutlers" when I was in reenacting and one from Ames Sword Co. themselves. Every last one of them had trouble keeping the sabres in the scabbards. Ames is no more a truly correct copy of the 1860 Lt Cav sabre than is MRL's and other's. The distal taper and thickness of the blade is identicle to MRL's and in fact I called and talked to someoen at Ames and he said they got their blades from India and assemble them in the Ames Shop. Right!! You would think someone with the history and prestige of Ames would see to it that it was an "ACCURATE" copy.
I had the heavy one from Cold Steel. It held good but in no time the guts came out of the scabbard came out, plastic strips and little square glue patches, just cheap, shoddy junk! And the blade had a very noticable dip in it like someone had ground too much in one spot. I sent it back and the dip in the blade was still their, just not as bad. I sold the thing to get it off my hands.
But I still have my MRL 1860 Lt Cav Sabre. I love it and all, but it just falls out ofthe scabbard. I have tried to bend the strips to make it grip the blade better, and it worked for a short while, then went back to falling out. Must just use cheap, shoddy metal for the throat blade grippers. Why can't they use some good tempered steel strips like they used in real sabres and bayonets with metal scabbards?!?
Freebooter
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Post by Freebooter on Feb 28, 2011 2:30:22 GMT
Hey Maynor,
By the way, what do you think of that Windless Hvy Cav Sabre as far as its over all construction, feel , and balance, etc.? I have been thinking of getting one!
FB
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Post by Maynar on Feb 28, 2011 3:00:57 GMT
Hey FB: Overall the construction is first-rate. Balance is ridiculously tip-heavy, but that's how sabers are, from what i understand (this is my first). You have to hold them reverse-hand, with the tip "hanging down" so your wrist does not break, hence the nickname.  As long as you deploy correctly, and not like a katana, it works out well. Full disclosure, I have yet to actually cut with it. Dry-handle only.This should help: To correct my scabbard problem, I ended up re-threading the scabbard for one of the adjusting screws, and installing a larger screw that will reach the blade (top edge). Now this means the ricasso will get a bit chewed up by the screw end, but I can live with that for two reasons: 1) it's a production sword, not an antique, so.... 2) 600 grit sandpapper should take out any scratches imparted by the screw head, on said ricasso edge. And you could file the screw end once installed, to be a kinder, gentler adjusting mechanism. I find that a little judicious screw-turning when I want to unsheath the blade works well. Turn the screw tight, and the blade stays where it should. No matter what. Loosen the screw a bit, and the blade slides free and easy. Means you gotta keep a small screwdriver handy, but WTH. It works. And Freebooter, let me recommend this particular saber: therionarms.com/reenact/therionarms_c1249.htmlThe etchings on the blade are gorgeous. I discovered this beauty about three days after I ordered the one I currently own. *stoopid, STOOPID!* And for this style of saber (Union Army) I recommend this sword knot to go with: www.legendaryarms.com/leswkn.htmlModel 3c. Enjoy.  |
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Post by MrAcheson on Feb 28, 2011 19:54:16 GMT
Leather sword knots were for enlisted men who carried swords (like cavalry troopers). Officers (and both 1850s are officer's swords) used the gold or silver corded fabric ones.
How is the Staff and Field Officer's sword? Always like the looks of that one. KoA has them for $130.
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Post by Freebooter on Feb 28, 2011 23:14:10 GMT
You said it was very end heavy. Sad. I have handled an original 1840 Hvy Cav Saber a buddy owns and it was just the opposite. It was a joy to hold and extremely well balanced and NOT end heavy. I just don't understand why, with the opportunity that today's technology offers, why these repro companies can't frigging make a true repro?!?!? Damn, if you are going to make a repro, then make a correct repro in every way, weight, balance, blade thickness and distal taper, the whole nine yards!!!! It really pisses me off.
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Post by MrAcheson on Mar 1, 2011 1:52:51 GMT
Most modern swords are made by machining the blade out of a piece of barstock. In order to get the distal profile right, they'd have to start with a thicker grade of stock and remove (waste) more material. All of that raises costs in stock, tooling, and cycle time. Sometimes by a lot. Since most people really don't care, they often just use a thinner stock, don't machine much off, and only bother to get the weight and look right.
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Post by Freebooter on Mar 1, 2011 2:00:56 GMT
Yep, I just wish SOMEONE would offer a truly historical replica in every way. I have a buddy who has an original 1860 Lt Cav Sabre made by H. Boker, Solingen, Germany carried by his great great grandfather in the Prattville Dragoons, which wound up being assigned as Co. "H", 3rd Alabama Cavalry, Wheeler's Cavalry Corps, C.S.A.. I have even written, via email, the Boker company like three or four times in the last three years or so asking them about any records of their contracts to either the U.S. or C.S. during the Civil War, etc. and also the possibility of a truly correct repro of their contract sabre during the U.S. Civil War. They have not even had the common decency, class or manners to reply or answer me.
Freebooter
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Post by Maynar on Mar 1, 2011 2:17:04 GMT
That was indeed my perception. But since this is my first saber, my opinions must be taken with a grain of salt. I have no experience with sabers. I went back and measured the POB, which seems to come out at about seven inches from the guard. I hope that bit of info can help you get a better picture.
If you have more specific questions, feel free to ask and I will try my best to answer.
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Post by MrAcheson on Mar 1, 2011 13:35:25 GMT
My first thought is to take a bunch of measurements from your buddy's original 1860. Especially distal taper, but also blade shape, etc. Then pick up a windlass 1840 (which seem to be made on thicker stock) and have that blade reworked into an 1860. The resulting "1860" might be an inch too long and the hilt won't be quite right, but it ought to handle a lot better.
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Post by Freebooter on Mar 1, 2011 14:27:19 GMT
I did take measurments and all at one time (see my review; "Original vs MRL 1860). I got one of Mrl's replicas and ground the blade and made it as close as possible to the orininal. It handles a lot better but still not the same. The original 1860s were almost 1/4" at the guard and distally tapered to nothing at the point whereas repros are like 3/16th at guard and stay 3/16ths thick all the way until inches from the point. I have had like 4 originals over the years and they are very well balanced and nice handling!! Repros don't compare.
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Post by MrAcheson on Mar 1, 2011 14:53:33 GMT
Which is why I suggested using an 1840 blade and grinding it to roughly 1860 dimensions. The 1860 repros are all made from 3/16 stock. You're never going to get the weight distribution right. The Windlass 1840 appears to be made from 1/4 or 5/16 stock (at least according to Dave Kelly's review). If so then you might be able to grind that down to a halfway decent facsimile of 1860 geometry, but it will never be hefty enough for a true 1840. |
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As long as you deploy correctly, and not like a katana, it works out well. Full disclosure, I have yet to actually cut with it. Dry-handle only.This should help: 
