ghost
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Posts: 1,324
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Post by ghost on Mar 15, 2011 15:56:45 GMT
The problem is totally on our end, Cory. I'm a bit freaked out to permanently file down the tang. The thicker portion of the end of the tang needs to enter, or partial enter the ring. This is necessary to make sure the pommel sit firmly and keep it from breaking off with just the thin threaded section (via pommel strikes or just plain use) ![](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e340/fbiguy2006/IMG_0096.jpg) Saito does it correctly here. The problem faced would be to filed down the excess portion that is exposed in the inner ring. This would need to be done on an individual basis. A long sleeve or a really long hex nut can then be inserted.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 15, 2011 17:28:18 GMT
it doesnt look too bad on the finished project even with the threads showin, but you could add a sleeve to cover it if you were that worried about it. like he said you gotta make sure the ring comes down on the actual tang, not just the threaded portion or it would take too much stress and break. even not doing pommel strikes you could still break it from shock of hitting a hard target. ive hit a couple great big jugs that didnt cut and the shock to the sword was quite substantial and as i have it set up the tang took no damage from the shock.
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Post by John Greybeard on Mar 15, 2011 21:32:28 GMT
Here's how our friends at Albion handled ( hahahaha) the ring pommel... ![](http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz154/johnskyfire/HILTs/Ring-Pommel.jpg) I like that the width/thickness of the tang that shows thru in the ring is about the same as the thickness/width of the ring. I think maybe we could accomplish the same look with a collar of some sort and not too much alteration of the original tang. Whatcha think?
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Post by Major, Cory J on Mar 16, 2011 1:37:05 GMT
John- That works for me! Looks like that would be even more amazing in bronze!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 16, 2011 1:49:09 GMT
thats MY ring pommel! bought one from the moat. hahhahahha
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Post by John Greybeard on Mar 16, 2011 2:36:04 GMT
Saito, do you mean the one in the photo in Ghost's post, or the one in my last post? If the H/T is yours, is that on a longsword, Bastard, GSOW?
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 16, 2011 2:39:29 GMT
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,324
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Post by ghost on Mar 16, 2011 2:41:55 GMT
I do like the way albion has done it, it except for that uh...nipple peen block?
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 16, 2011 2:43:11 GMT
yeah that peen blocks kinda tacky
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,324
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Post by ghost on Mar 16, 2011 2:59:14 GMT
The SBG bastards made by BKS have pretty nice ring pommels. ![](http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu113/SlayerofDarkness100/BKS-SBG%20Straight%20Blade/DSCN4219.jpg) I hope slayer forgive me...this is a picture of his. ^ Ordered one of these with a fuller...but that won't be here for a while, so I have really no idea how it is done.
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Post by John Greybeard on Mar 16, 2011 3:02:17 GMT
Uh, I like nipples... I mean on peen blocks... well, pretty much everywhere, I guess...
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Post by John Greybeard on Mar 16, 2011 3:05:56 GMT
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 16, 2011 4:02:42 GMT
microsoft paint for the win! looks good john lol
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Post by Elheru Aran on Mar 18, 2011 21:23:41 GMT
A quick heads up here:
Due to the difficulty of carving maple, I am going to have to do over with poplar on some pieces. I'll have more free time tomorrow morning as my wife will be working. She doesn't much dig me messing about when she's at home... something about obsession *cough*
Anyway, yeah. I'll be doing over a few pieces and hopefully they'll move quicker. I'll keep you all posted...
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Post by Sir Tre on Mar 18, 2011 22:28:12 GMT
some woods are tough to cave since grain is tight, some are tough because the split... and i know it is kinda cheating, but when i did a handle in pecan, i used a dremmel to finalize mine.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 19, 2011 1:47:56 GMT
i use a dremmel for all of it, and finish it off with varying grits of sandpaper. its not cheating, a single slip with the dremmel and the entire piece is ruined. trust me i know
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,324
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Post by ghost on Mar 19, 2011 2:15:45 GMT
remember to cut with a sharp knife/board cutter/Xacto knife into the trace, before dremeling so you don't skip from the grain resistance.
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Post by John Greybeard on Mar 19, 2011 2:23:58 GMT
Dremel, cheating??? Ahhhh, com'on Sir...its the twentyfirst century! Even if we are all caught up with an obsession over a many-centurys-old killing technology... doesn't mean we've got to ignore better sword building technologies available to us today. I sure wouldn't turn my nose up at an Albion, regardless of their CNC machines.
And you know Saito's right about how much faster you can screw up a piece with power tools, plenty of craftsmanship required still.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 19, 2011 2:52:49 GMT
i can whip out a finished euro handle core in 15 minutes with my dremmel. assuming i dont fack it up and have to start over....then its 20 mins. took me 3 days to do with chissels and i still Fked it up and had to start over so...DREMMEL FOR ME
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Post by Sir Tre on Mar 19, 2011 3:27:03 GMT
sorry John, i didnt want to offend the traditionalists. after all the proper method is to get a dragon to sneeze on an oak tree and wipe of the ash and wham you have a great premade stock sword grip.
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