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Post by MOK on Oct 1, 2011 20:42:57 GMT
Assuming equal weight? The thin square disk, actually. Same kinetic energy + smaller impact area = deeper hurt. :geek:
I like the design, it's very business-like, almost to the point of crudeness but the double fullers give it a nice contrasting touch of sophistication.
Although I really don't think the pommel needs to be quite that big. Spherical pommels are deceptively massive for their profile size - solid ones always appear slightly too small in silhouette... But of course you could make it partially hollow, like many historical pommels, if you wanted to keep the extra large size for aesthetic reasons.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 1, 2011 22:23:26 GMT
True, true, but if we keep it in the whole workhorse line of thought, a big round ball could potentially be useful as a hammer; at least, more so than the H1 simply because it'd be easier to hit something accurately with that big size.
That's really what I was going for. My thought process was something slightly crude, but very business-like and designed to be perfect at what it was meant for; a sort of mercenary short sword. Mercs are always portrayed as being slightly crude and brutish themselves, so why not slightly parody that with this sword? It'd be something a smith could bang out in a day or two with a slightly beefy, almost axe handle grip.
I could potentially make it a bit smaller as well as slightly hollow. It's meant as a hacking weapon, after all, so I don't think very hilt biased POB would be very good for it.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 1, 2011 22:58:17 GMT
How's this? I made the pommel about 1.6" long and 1.8" wide:
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 1:02:56 GMT
So I still can't get cord markings down, but I decided to have another go at Mé'aré this evening. I made the inner curves on the pommel a little taller so you get an almost T-shaped look like the original Bristol pommel; I also got the curve on the guard a little better so it's not quite as flat. Next, I thinned out the arms so it didn't look quite so bulky. I moved the risers around just a bit and made the tip a little pointier; this sword is essentially a combination of the H/T Fullered Bastard and the VA Bristol (which is on purpose, since I'll be using the blade of the former and the furniture of the latter when I go to have this sword customized). Also, as a funny aside, something I noticed was the fact that the older version's blade looks much thinner despite it being the same exact width as this version thanks to me slimming out the grip and the guard. Now it actually looks like a sword someone could take off to war rather than a sword in too-big fittings (at least, that was my impression of the old version).
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 1:34:49 GMT
I liked both versions, but this one does definitely look better to me. Damn you, we started learning at the same time, and you're kicking my tuckus!!!
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 1:59:19 GMT
:lol: Well, in all fairness, I'm home all day, so the time I have to practice is pretty much limited only by how long I'm awake; I only work on it about 2-3 hours at most, though. Plus, I have yet to create a decent curved blade and I have no idea how you did that, so I'd say that makes us somewhat even.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 2:38:24 GMT
I just made one line the length of the blade, what would be the back/mune(i think) on a katana, and then a slanted line for the ha/edge, with the point meeting with the mune/back. I then made the kissaki/tip just like you would for a euro, but with one extra node, and jerried about with the bezier handles until it looked right. Then sori was exaggerated and made more pronounced and almost shamshir like by using the object select tool and clicking it twice, to where I had the curved arrows on the four corners, and used it to angle the tip, and then used the node selector to even out the guard/base of the blade.
I hope that made sense! If not, I'm about to try another few curved blades, so i can do up a pic how to.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 2:48:02 GMT
I'd appreciate it, 'cause I didn't really get any of that. At the least, I'll be able to do curved blades, if not Ithin, 'cause I know I don't have the skill to make the guard look proper.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 2:53:17 GMT
Let me see if i can whip something up real quick. ~Edit~ FAILURE!! Cant seem to remember how I did it.. But here's a pic of the saber blade with the nodes selected.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 3:12:40 GMT
That's plenty, actually. As long as I can see the nodes, I should be able to work it out.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 3:29:31 GMT
Glad of that... Now I need to figure out how to do it again myself. XD
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 3:41:31 GMT
By the way, J; if you were wondering how I did my most recent pommel, here's a screenshot with the nodes selected. This would be easier than telling you how since it'll show you about where to place everything for that exact shape. Also, that center node at the very tip isn't necessary unless you want to do a pommel with a spine like mine has. Strictly speaking, it's not necessary even then, but I put it there to make getting that second half aligned properly easier.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 3:43:15 GMT
That is most helpful for the Justicar!! Trying to get an Anduril style pommel on it and the mate for it. Thanks!!
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 4:19:23 GMT
Not a problem; I remembered you were having a bit of trouble with fishtails, so I figured this could help a bit. It's also certainly more fishtail than my last one, which was more of a T2 than a V1.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 4:30:05 GMT
Roughing up some sica style blades for a LOTR inspired piece, given the new images of the dwarves from the hobbit movie. Thanks for the help mate, may need to bother you on making spines here soon, if i can't nab it.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 4:47:30 GMT
Haha, well, I haven't quite got the knack of spines just yet; at least, not compared to MOK. However, I may try something a little different on my next design; we'll see if it works.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Oct 3, 2011 5:15:58 GMT
as evidenced by the above, you got the knack better than me
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 5:32:34 GMT
Ah, well, refer back to my fishtail pommel above; see the gradient handles in the middle? What I normally do (what MOK told me to do, in other words) is draw the entire shape, then draw a second half (hence that middle point at the tip of the pommel; makes doing that so much easier). The whole shape should be a darker color, say 40% gray while the half should be 30% gray.
When you go to make the gradients, put the darker section at 20% black and the lighter section at 15% black. Then, with the darker section, movie the shadowed end of the gradient towards the lighter half with the lighter end of the gradient away from it, but still fairly close. Do that and you should end up with the handles looking something like my pommel up there, with the darker sections overlapping.
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Post by MOK on Oct 3, 2011 5:41:51 GMT
Personally, I do a fishtail something like this: Remember, KISS! The less nodes you use, the smoother and sexier the curves will be.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 3, 2011 6:28:21 GMT
EDIT: This sword has been named Rahien'd'ashan. True, but I was aiming for a specific fishtail shape, so I needed a few more nodes. Anyways, here's me putting J's advice on curved blades to use with my own Warder design: I borrowed the pommel off of J's saber because I like that two-stage fishtail, but I put my own spin on it with the radically different shades of gray; the central rib is polished while the rest of the pommel is nearly blackened. I tried to do the same with the guard, but I flubbed it a bit; it's a slightly fantasy take on the Style 11 guard, which is originally one single piece, rather than with a rib/second section like this. I decided to get a little fancy with the risers and borrowed the style on Brendan's Anduril and Rhindon, because I think they're a sort of Euro take on the criss-crossing tsukamaki of katana without actually being them. The blade is also fairly similar to a katana, which is intentional. Jordan's description of both Rand's heron-marked blade and Lan's Warder sword evoke the style of a katana, but with a Euro flair. Overall, the design is partially inspired by the sword you can see in Rand's hand on the cover of The Path of Daggers. Almost forgot the most important part! The specs! Overall, this baby is about 39.5" with a 7" grip; due to its shape, the pommel is slightly longer than usual at 2.25". The blade is about 1.75" at its widest and about 1.25" at the "kissaki" where it tapers to the point. The fuller is 11" long and just under .5" wide.
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