G2 gladii grip shape

I think you may be right that both round lathe grips are the same on both the G2 pompeii and Maintz.
sbgswordforum.proboards.com/inde ... read=11904

I have the G2 pompeii taken a while ago off KoA's scratch and dent. I went to a customization thread on myarmoury that Luke Zechman did a while back and it seems that the wooden pommel is loctited or epoxied onto the threads. I also wanted to carve a bone grip myself.

www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

It seems very likely that you will have to destroy the wooden pommel or boil it until it loosens up. I have tried twisting it off with all my strength (6 ft 225 gym junkie here) and it didn't budge. I didn't go as far to clamp and torque wrenching it off since this would likely just break/ twist off the pommel and threaded portion of the tang. I want to save the black massacar pommel since it is well done... so I have never gotten around to removing it.

I read somewhere that rounded grips on Gladii are historically accurate - I guess the Romans didn't care for what was used primarily as a thruster, or oriented according to the guard, or perhaps we are more progressive minded These faceted grips seem to be a modern addition?

edit: guess Ric beat me to it; thread above;

Ghost, I never noticed the Pompeii being especially thick, the AOV website puts the Gen2 blades at 3/16 but some of the ones I have seem thicker.
At any rate the Gen2 pompeii doesn't appear to be quite as thick as my KC Gladius to my eye, tho the KC is a heavy gladius for sure.
The Pompeii does look thicker than my Windlass mainz. This all should be taken with a grain of salt as I have no calipers and am just going by my eye.

If you do choose to carve a new grip from bone, choose your piece well. It's tough to work with and a bummer if something goes wrong. Last week I lost many many hours of work to a 'bubble' in the bone. I was about 3/4 of the way done shaping a beautiful grip for my glad and all of a sudden there was this tiny hole; which ended up revealing a 1" inch by .5" cavity right in the middle of the bone. It was looking so damn good too- scalloped and contoured for my hand, with a hexagonal shape. I've since spent too much time looking for another suitable piece of bone...

Anyway, brass is relatively soft and more likely to strip if the other half of whats threaded is a stronger metal but this isn't something that I've ever really worried about when making my own screws and tapping and all that. It shouldn't present a problem so long as the thread sizes match and you're not constantly screwing and unscrewing. It's more likely that the outside of the brass nut would show scratches/damage- if you have to use a tool to remove it keep something between the tool and nut like a piece of leather etc.