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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2010 2:53:04 GMT
Hello, I got my hanwei tinker viking today and I'm in love (lol) but in reviews it notes it doesn't come very sharp, I had prepared for this and bought a couple accusharps that are orange-ish colored (I dunno if any others have this one) but I am kinda nervous as I don't want to "kill" the edge. When sharpening with accusharps on a test blade I notice its cleaner then me going at it with stones since the edge shape is part of the sharpener. Any pointers? Like how much pressure to apply or stuff like that? Be Greatly appreciated  |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2010 3:31:15 GMT
I've thought about the secondary bevel, after looking at the shape of the accusharp's blades to the edge on the tinker and the blade thickness it doesn't look like it would screw it up less I purposely ran the accusharp off angle which sounds horrible lol
I agree I like using stones and sandpaper but I'll keep practicing on this think axe-sharp viking sword I got here to see what happens. I'm currently testing the edge on copy paper and gently pushing it into the edge to see if it cuts.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2010 4:16:58 GMT
After reading it all I looked at the tinker again and noticed its edge is actually a secondary bevel anyways lol, its a very small one so it shouldn't be too difficult to blend it into the primary bevel from the fuller. The big challenge will be making it all look good but I got lots of different grit sandpaper for that Thanks for the links and info! I'll reply results ;] |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2010 23:05:59 GMT
well I gave it a shot with the sanding process and even put a whetstone in there a bit and after the whole ordeal theres no secondary bevel but I can't seem to get it sharper without risking the edge..am I good or what? lol cause I tried swinging at a bottle filled with water and it just batted it away!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2010 0:17:13 GMT
Yeah I think its just cause of edge alignment cause its a nice polished edge however I think my mind is playing games on me lol, I look down the blade and now it looks like its not going down the centerline with the handle starting at the guard...
God knows how it happened cause it looks as if it was all assembled with a bent tang at the start of the blade D:
trying to think of a way to fix it or if i'm seeing things lol
UPDATE: The hanwei tinker viking has a strange occular illusion where the handguard swivels a bit and when not aligned correctly, shows the blade bent..will look into it further o.o
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Nov 14, 2010 19:54:30 GMT
looking down the edge of a sword can be a really weird thing, I have a lot of experience sharpening and straightening blades and I can tell you I still get thrown off from time to time. generally if a sword seems off center or bent but only so slightly that sometimes you see it and sometimes you don't you either need to lay it on a known perfectly straight edge to prove it one way or another or you need to accept that it is ok and your eyes are just not sharp enought to see it.
if you look down on the edge of a properly sharpened sword the very edge should be basically invisible. if you can see the edge then you have a flat spot or a burr and you need to work that area more.
I am not a fan of accusharps in any way, in fact I hate them. I would start working on a H/T with either 200-ish grit sand paper or a file. the first thing I would do would be to blend the bevels into one smooth curved shape. then I would get the edge just as sharp as possible with my 200 grit. once I got it sharp enough to scrape a fingernail or cut paper I would then move up to finer sand paper. the point is you want to establish your edge as well as you can with your lowest grit/coarsest paper/file. the reason for this is because at that point you are reshaping the geometry and that requires removing a lot of material. doing the same thing with finer grit paper/stones is beyond the ability of most people's patience.
to tell if the actual edge is sharp, I like to hold the blade 90 degrees to my finger nail (finer nail and edge make a T) and then very carefully drag my fingernail across (NOT down the length of) the blade. if it is sharp it will scratch up some finger nail, if not it will slide across it. the sharper the edge the more it will bite into the nail. just be careful if you choose to do this, it is easy to cut yourself.
as for cutting I definitely recommend starting out with gallon milk jugs. they are very easy to cut even with a dull blade but will still give you feed back on your edge alignment. edge alignment is the easiest thing to get wrong and it will absolutely jack up your cut if it is wrong.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2010 22:28:25 GMT
I'm loving all the advice learning alot from it and I thank you guys for it :] I finished touching up the blade with a nice 2000 grit polish and its got a sharpness I approve of (I like my viking-style blades to be mid-to-heavy cutters) the alignment issue was just me looking down the edge with both eyes which made me feel stupid so everything is good as I expected from the H/Ts according to reviews lol. Ima following the stone/sanding method for sharpening any blade I get from now on as it really adds a personal touch to your blade you know? Thanks again for the help i'll see if I can post pics! |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2010 22:50:21 GMT
I managed to get 2 pics since my camera isn't too crazy, feel free to critique lol   As you can see the blade has what I would think to be a nice polish, I did my best and the edge feels to have a sort of appleseed shape which preferably I kinda like. The whole deal is nice and stiff with that flexible tempered blade we all like, overall I'm very pleased |
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ghost
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Post by ghost on Nov 15, 2010 0:20:07 GMT
awesome job - looks like a nice appleseed now. I got the HT viking last week too an haven't started getting rid of the bevel. I really really hate the chape on the scabbard, it is rubbing the hell out of the blade as you slide it in.
As forewarning, don't try to take off the throat to trim the metal, it is actually just double side taped on with fiberglass pieces - not even a whole piece with the rest of the scabbard. I have to go make another one when I have the time.
edit: lol I had the same marks on the faux grip from the elastic band where they decided to put a tag; ripped it off already for a regrip -> if you do this the guard may come loose -just loctited mine yest.
^ sorry if I went offtopic, just a few notes I thought might be useful for you in case you decide to customize it in the future.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2010 0:37:19 GMT
Thanks :] I know whatcha mean it feels kind of annoying. maybe have a linen cover or something so it doesn't rub against the metal? oh for the loose guard thing on mine it already is so i filled the gap with JB weld after aligning the guard how i wanted and now its solid like a rock and looks clean lol yeah its not a traditional fix but still works well.
In about a month or so I may buy a medival beater but having trouble deciding which, i want it to be at LEAST a hand and a half with a peened pommel under the $300 mark and have a nice edge already there if possible o.o but that'll be for later
sorry for going off topic as well lol
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