Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 5, 2010 5:44:14 GMT
So, there is a chance that I'll have an opportunity to purchase a stage combat viking sword. I think my friend said it was made by Hanwei, but I can't be 100% sure on that, and I don't think he can be either.
So I looked at Hanwei's line of swords and the stage combat model appeared to only be a ounce heavier.
I've heard in the past that a stage combat sword should never be sharpened to use as a cutting sword because all the weights and nodes are different for each. More specifically, the stage combat sword is heavier due to the fact that there is more metal present for edge on edge "combat."
So, if I didn't mind the weight, could I do a good bit of filing work and put an edge on a stage combat sword and use it for bottles and the like, or is there some reason that this is a bad idea?
I'm sort of on the fence about buying it, if he even decides to sell it in the first place. When I've swung it in the past, the pommel bites into my hand something feirce on the follow through. I wouldn't imagine this would be an issue if I were swinging into... lets say... a combatant, because the blade would stop after impact. But on the follow through, I've never had much comfort from a viking style sword. But this half of the discussion is probably better suited for the training thread.
So, edge on a stage combat weapon?
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Nov 5, 2010 6:57:03 GMT
Hi Greg, sure you can put an edge it, you can put an edge on a ball bearing. the question is really, "do you want to" because it is probably going to be a LOT of work.
as for nodes and all that, I wouldn't worry too much. you already know how it feels and while removing the extra weight will have an impact on all that I think it is pretty likey it already is a sword shaped crow bar as it is pretty tough to make a stage sword that isn't. I have a few sword shaped crowbars and some of them cut really well.
so, start off with a course file and work the edges into the shape you want. or you could get a really rough grit blue zirconia belt from lee valley for your belt sander, I'm thinking 110 grit or less and use that just be careful of heat with that one; and of your fingers. once you get an edge profile established with no flat spot and reasonably sharp (though it will be rough) then simple sharpen it the way you normally would but spend more time with the lw grit belts, in fact you should probably get some of the 40 micron belts which is the next grit below the 400/500 one. I forget what the grits are on the web site since the belts are all marked in microns I always think of them in microns.
it is likely you may even improve the handling slightly by removing weight but don't expect it to be an AT or anything of the sort.
as for the pommel hitting your wrist this is a common problem with that type of pommel I have a video floating around here of how I think a sword should be gripped and swung to avoid this. it works for me anyway. I can't link to it right now though since I'm at sea. gonna be in the panama canal soon, in fact. I think you have seen it and I know I posted it here on the new forum as well as on the old one so a quick search should come up with it. if nothing else you can browse my youtube channel for "how to grip a medieval sword" or something like that.
good luck, let us know how this goes.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Nov 5, 2010 7:13:08 GMT
I remember watching you grip a large handled sword and had tried in on my 303s. It didn't work so well tho, but I think that the reason it didn't work was because that wasn't how the 303s was meant to be gripped. It makes more sense to grip the squared pommel with a modified handshake and still retain blade control. As far as having a sharpened crowbar, it's something that I've always wanted. My form has improved enough so that I'm not putting sets into my blades anymore, but I would still like to have just an all out rough and tumble blade. My friend bought it at a ren fair and has basically just left it propped up in the corner of his shop. It always pained me seeing it there and I'd take it out from time to time to let it know that it's still appreciated. But if I do get it, and find an afternoon I can devote to sharpening it, I'll let everyone know how it goes. Oh, and as far as belts go, the shiny-things gods were smiling on me over the summer because my local Lowe's started carrying belts that fit my sander. I picked up a pack of 80 grits and a pack of 120. The 120 belts have since turned into 200 grit, so forming the edge with the 80 grit and then moving on to the 200s seemed to work well enough on my Qama. There's still some evidence of the larger grits that I haven't removed yet, but all in all, the final edge was a good utility edge. Not quite up to par with my other blades, but well on it's way.
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Post by Bradleee42 on Nov 16, 2010 22:37:32 GMT
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