Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2010 15:33:14 GMT
Hi all,
I wanted to remove the enhenced hamon on my new katana by using a wett stone of 4000 grit.
But now the polish is not uniform on the surface of the blade which came to a surprise to me. Looks like I killed the polish of the blade. :cry:
Either the blade is really not flat (niku?) or I am really so bad that I can not polish the blade flat.
Did I apply too much pressure on the wett stone ? Did I not polish enough the surface of the blade which was not flat and had a niku ?
By the way, it is still sharp and can cut paper.
regards
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Oct 22, 2010 16:04:21 GMT
Try using a rubber sanding block with high grit paper. The rubber will form to the odd shape of your blade and polish all of it. Make sure you wet sand as well. It will make your paper last longer and sword polish up better.
On a side note, it will make the shinogi less prominent. What with the shape forming and all....
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Post by Hyoujinsama on Oct 22, 2010 17:11:47 GMT
What I would do is get some high grit sandpaper and cut it into small pieces to use almost like fingerstones. Most Hanwei blades do not have perfectly smooth surfaces; there are all of these weird, shallow milling/grinding marks from when they finish the blade. It's like a regular pattern of divots where the stone did not touch.
If this is the case, the sandpaper should work. Cut it into 1/2" to 1" pieces and polish lengthwise, careful not to overlap on the shinogi so as not to round it out.
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ghost
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Post by ghost on Oct 22, 2010 18:35:05 GMT
High grit sandpaper, like Hyoujinsama recommended, and fold it to hand-size and rub it along the whole blade in the kitchen sink with a slow stream of running water. I rub it short and quick starting from 4-5 inch segments up the blade and get progressively larger until you are running the whole blade in a long sweep. I use water to cool the blade since I have caused slight discoloration spots (heat) in the past on some of my beaters dry sanding. I think you should start at 600 grit before moving on up (usually all the papers are waterproof) otherwise it may take you all day to take out the etched hamon. Autobody shops for high grit sandpaper and metal polishes. Finish it up with some polishes that contain small abrasives (Nevrdull) Good luck!, you know you did a goo job when your hands are aching real bad
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Post by Bradleee42 on Oct 22, 2010 19:59:00 GMT
...and ache for three days afterwards.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2010 22:59:12 GMT
Thank you for your answers.
I just order the following sand papers
600 grit 1200 grit
super finish of 30um ?! Dont know if it is of any use after a 1200 grit, but lets see if it is of any use.
regards
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Post by Hyoujinsama on Oct 23, 2010 1:28:37 GMT
I personally wouldn't go so low as 600 unless you have some larger scratches. If you're just refinishing the surface, 1000-2000 should suffice. The polishing compound will help remove the tiny scratches left by the high grit papers.
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Post by mikeS on Nov 27, 2010 23:34:02 GMT
^^^ good suggestion mikeeman.. however as u said if you put any pressure on it or too much in the wrong place it well deform the shinogi and make the seperation between ji and ha less crisp and maybe wavy...
i would add to your thoughts to try using a block of soft wood like poplar it is VERY cheap and u only need a pice the size of your hand or at the least maybe a pice 2 inches wide and 1/2 inch high and then affix the sanpaper like you would a rubber block i use regular ol thumb tacks for it and it holds the paper fin just double up the edges wher you affix them on the back (ie. make the paper long enough to wrap around and cover the back an inch on both sides and then fold that in half to get a doubl;e thick 1/2 inch pice and stick the thubtachs in maybe one on each corner)
this will still allow for some blade ireegularities but will not deform the shinogi..i use it with good success! that should help alot just use whatever grade paper you like 400, 600, 1000 etc etc.... and u can also use this techniqu on a fine scale like stones like hyoujinsama said just make very thin chips of wood (like real thin 1/32" or thinner bur not paper thin... kind like a popsicle stick cut in half )
then cut out finger like shapes like a popsicle stick once again about 5 inches long (actually popsicle sticks are perfect if u can cut them in half length wise to have two identical thinner pieces) and affix your paper cut out too it with a few drops o super glue! youll have perfect stones! experiment with the thickness of the wood and or different materials, card boards, posterboard etc etc.. u can make an array of shapes and firmnesses. this way you do not compromise the shinogi and you dont exert pressure unevenly you finger with pushe the wood flat...
hope this helps you ive also used this technique for sall touchup spots rust etc
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Post by deejay on Nov 28, 2010 0:41:04 GMT
Before I would hit it with sand paper-give quick once over with mothers polish-see what it does 1st then-if nessacry the higher end grits of paper.Try finishing it off with 3000 grit pad and windex.This should bring the hamon and polish back up!
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