Review of Military Heritage's Mameluke Sabre
Mar 21, 2007 15:51:02 GMT
Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2007 15:51:02 GMT
Hello all,
Not long ago I got me a new Napoleonic Mameluke Sabre. Y'all know what? It is a great feeling to get off of work and come home to find a nice package waiting for you and inside of that a nice sword!
Anyway, I got it from the website just mentioned but actually they said to address the MO and order to "The Discriminating General". I have no pics, my digital camera is on the blink. So for pics go to their website: www.militaryheritage.com . Check it out. It cost $239.00 not counting S. & H., etc.. It is a beautiful sword! While I am no expert on either swords or proper terminology of parts, etc., I will do the best I can. So here goes:
--------------------------------------------
Military Heritage's Napoleonic Mameluke Sabre:
This sabre feels a slight bit blade heavy but perhaps that is because I have not handled a sabre in so long, or perhaps my wrist and forearm muscles are out of shape. But it feels better each time I handle it! The sword fits snugly into its beautiful well made scabbard and will not just fall out even if held upside down.
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WEIGHT: Weighed on old bathroom scales, so best I can tell: in its well made heavy scabbard; about 3 or 3.5lbs. Alone; abt 1+lbs or 2 lbs.
O.A. LENGTH: In scabbard, from tip of drag to end of pommel; 40 3/4". Just sword, straight from point to pommel, not following curve: 39 1/4'".
BLADE:
Blade is superbly made, flexes nicely, with no discernable grind or file marks. Has what appears to be "Klingenthal" in script engraved on back of blade about ½” from guard. It is not sharpened but would not take much to do so, having come about like MRL's swords; close to being sharp.
LENGTH: Straight from point to guard, not following edge or curve; 33 5/8". Distance from back of center of blade to straight edge from point to guard above back of blade: 2".
THICKNESS: 5/16" at guard (including tang which runs through handle and is in shape of handle), 3½/16” in middle of blade, and narrowing to 3/16” at spot where it rapidly goes inward to form beginning of false edge, about 8 3/4" from point. False edge begins about 3/16" thick, 2 ½” in middle of false edge and goes to almost nothing at point. Sharp point too.
WIDTH: 1¼” at guard. 1 1/8” at center of blade. 1” about four” from point, then slopes on towards point.
P.O.B.: Abt 8 ¼” from guard.
“Sweet Spot”: I am not sure what you call this spot or how to describe it. But when I rapped the edge on something, the best feeling spot with least vibration or strange feeling was about 12” from point. Felt more like a solid hit.
FULLER:
L: Beginning with squared end at ½” from guard to rounded end 7 ½” from point.
W: 13/16” wide at center of blade, beginning at back of blade to 3/8” from edge all along.
HANDLE:
GUARD: Well made solid brass with no mold or grind marks. About 5” tip to tip. 2 3/8” from tip to tip on other points of guard which point along blade and into handle grip. The one into handle nicely inletted into wood of grip. Also, the blade side of the guard is inletted so that the mouth of the scabbard sort of fits into it. No rain or debris can hardly fall into it that way. I think it is neat.
Grip: Nicely finished oiled wood 1 ¼” wide at guard, 7/8” at narrowest part right before knobbed pommel with hole in it. The hole for lanyard or wrist strap is brass sleeved with ¼” hole. Three brass or copper rivets in handle. Handle thickness is right at 7/8” from guard to including pommel or end. This includes the 5/16” blade or tang which runs through handle to end.
SCABBARD:
Wood covered with black leather with solid, well made brass drag, throat area, and middle section with nice solid brass rings and attachents.
Not long ago I got me a new Napoleonic Mameluke Sabre. Y'all know what? It is a great feeling to get off of work and come home to find a nice package waiting for you and inside of that a nice sword!
Anyway, I got it from the website just mentioned but actually they said to address the MO and order to "The Discriminating General". I have no pics, my digital camera is on the blink. So for pics go to their website: www.militaryheritage.com . Check it out. It cost $239.00 not counting S. & H., etc.. It is a beautiful sword! While I am no expert on either swords or proper terminology of parts, etc., I will do the best I can. So here goes:
--------------------------------------------
Military Heritage's Napoleonic Mameluke Sabre:
This sabre feels a slight bit blade heavy but perhaps that is because I have not handled a sabre in so long, or perhaps my wrist and forearm muscles are out of shape. But it feels better each time I handle it! The sword fits snugly into its beautiful well made scabbard and will not just fall out even if held upside down.
---------------------------
WEIGHT: Weighed on old bathroom scales, so best I can tell: in its well made heavy scabbard; about 3 or 3.5lbs. Alone; abt 1+lbs or 2 lbs.
O.A. LENGTH: In scabbard, from tip of drag to end of pommel; 40 3/4". Just sword, straight from point to pommel, not following curve: 39 1/4'".
BLADE:
Blade is superbly made, flexes nicely, with no discernable grind or file marks. Has what appears to be "Klingenthal" in script engraved on back of blade about ½” from guard. It is not sharpened but would not take much to do so, having come about like MRL's swords; close to being sharp.
LENGTH: Straight from point to guard, not following edge or curve; 33 5/8". Distance from back of center of blade to straight edge from point to guard above back of blade: 2".
THICKNESS: 5/16" at guard (including tang which runs through handle and is in shape of handle), 3½/16” in middle of blade, and narrowing to 3/16” at spot where it rapidly goes inward to form beginning of false edge, about 8 3/4" from point. False edge begins about 3/16" thick, 2 ½” in middle of false edge and goes to almost nothing at point. Sharp point too.
WIDTH: 1¼” at guard. 1 1/8” at center of blade. 1” about four” from point, then slopes on towards point.
P.O.B.: Abt 8 ¼” from guard.
“Sweet Spot”: I am not sure what you call this spot or how to describe it. But when I rapped the edge on something, the best feeling spot with least vibration or strange feeling was about 12” from point. Felt more like a solid hit.
FULLER:
L: Beginning with squared end at ½” from guard to rounded end 7 ½” from point.
W: 13/16” wide at center of blade, beginning at back of blade to 3/8” from edge all along.
HANDLE:
GUARD: Well made solid brass with no mold or grind marks. About 5” tip to tip. 2 3/8” from tip to tip on other points of guard which point along blade and into handle grip. The one into handle nicely inletted into wood of grip. Also, the blade side of the guard is inletted so that the mouth of the scabbard sort of fits into it. No rain or debris can hardly fall into it that way. I think it is neat.
Grip: Nicely finished oiled wood 1 ¼” wide at guard, 7/8” at narrowest part right before knobbed pommel with hole in it. The hole for lanyard or wrist strap is brass sleeved with ¼” hole. Three brass or copper rivets in handle. Handle thickness is right at 7/8” from guard to including pommel or end. This includes the 5/16” blade or tang which runs through handle to end.
SCABBARD:
Wood covered with black leather with solid, well made brass drag, throat area, and middle section with nice solid brass rings and attachents.