Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2010 15:32:38 GMT
Hello all,
I'm looking to buy a medieval sword with a 30''-32'' blade, with at least a 5.5-6 inch grip length. Something along the lines of the sword of Ibelin but with a shorter blade. I really liked the sword of ibelins grip. Price range would be around $250-300 max. I'm having a hard time looking through all the websites as either the sword I find interesting is out of stock, or either the blade is long, grip is short, or price way high. Anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps I missed a website out there (yes, I went to all recommened websites listed on this great website).
Regards...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2010 15:52:40 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by LittleJP on Oct 5, 2010 16:07:30 GMT
KoF has a sale on the H/T line.
Opinion seems to be that they're one of the best performing swords, with a very utilitarian approach.
|
|
|
|
Post by johnapsega on Oct 5, 2010 16:41:39 GMT
I have a sword in that same line. It's ok at the most. I agree about the H/T though the emshs, or the norman could be perfect especially at that price you would just have to touch up the blade a bit.
hope this helps
|
|
|
|
Post by Reflingar on Oct 5, 2010 17:18:03 GMT
I'll second what has been said already: I've never owned nor handled the War Sword but from what I've read about the old Cas-Iberia line, I wouldn't go for it myself...I think the fittings are crude and not well defined...just my humble opinion. If it was me, I would also go for one of the Hanwei-Tinker line...The bastard? Let us know for which one you'll go in the end, and your impressions on it!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2010 19:25:14 GMT
Well you can certainly go batty looking at all the different swords.
|
|
|
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Oct 5, 2010 19:36:16 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2010 23:09:05 GMT
Hmm, the bastard sword looks mighty interesting. Question though, how does the grip feel? I have averaged size hands but the grip seems a bit narrow, like the hand would swallow it up. If that ends up being the case, are there after market grips that can be purchased to make the grip fuller?
|
|
|
|
Post by hjorhrafn on Oct 5, 2010 23:16:42 GMT
I have smaller hands than most guys, and the H/T bastard grip was far too thin for my preference. Re-gripping it is super easy though. Some cord, leather glue, and a piece of thin leather will get you a much nicer grip. I spent less than twenty bucks and about four hours, and I have a much nicer grip. I wish I'd spent a bit of extra time to skiv the leather down a bit more now, but it does have a certain "soldier in the field" feel about it. It made a world of difference in both looks and feel as well.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2010 0:04:28 GMT
The Dynasty Forge Oakeshott Type XVIIIa sword has a slightly shorter grip than the Bastard, but the grip looks thicker. On the down side it cost about $160 more too. It says it's blade hardness is 1050 while the bastard blade hardness is 5160 Spring Steel, Marquenched to the desired hardness of 50-53 Hrc. Which blade hardness is better?
|
|
TomK
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,377
|
Post by TomK on Oct 6, 2010 0:46:04 GMT
to the OP, I ask: what are your intentions for this sword? what are you looking for?
do you want cut stuff with it? practice forms and techniques? just to look at? do you want a sword that feels good that you can hold and swing and enjoy the feel of while hanging with friends/watching TV/movies/reading you know just a sword to enjoy having as a sword (I know it sounds dorky but most of here do this and love it and there's nothing wrong with it)? are you looking for a sword that is historically accurate?
people are jumping to reccomend the Hanwei Tinker line which is great for cutting and being relatively historic but they aren't pretty and they like some attention to really bring out their full potential. in short, they are really good but not for everyone.
the sword you are interested in is a pretty good sword for looking at and for enjoying as you do other things like watch movies/TV but I wouldn't call it either a good sword for cutting or forms. but if you want a cool sword to enjoy and occasionally cutting a water bottle or vegetable then it will probably provide you all you need to enjoy having a sword.
if, however, you want a seriously historic sword (almost impossible in your budget) or a really good handling and cutting sword that is all about going through target after target, that dances in your hands (can you tell what kind of sword guy I am?) then the Hanwei Tinker is a great option.
so what is it you want to do with this sword?
|
|
|
|
Post by hjorhrafn on Oct 6, 2010 0:50:23 GMT
I haven't held or even read a review of any of Dynasty Forge's Euro line. To be honest, I don't know if there are huge differences between 1050 and 5160 steel for swords. Both have a reputation as tough, well-sharpening steels. I do know the hardness and temper of my H/T bastard is excellent though. Sorry I can't be of more help. And yeah, as Tom says, knowing what you want out of your sword is the first step to sword bliss.  *Edited for clarity* |
|
TomK
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,377
|
Post by TomK on Oct 6, 2010 1:49:29 GMT
there is at least one review of the DF Euros. I would rank them above the common drek of Windlass, Cold Steel, and Hanwei's standard line, but still well below Hanwei's Tinker line or Valiant Armory's recent lines.
do yourself a favor and straight ignore the hardness numbers listed on just about any sword advertisement. those numbers are rarely accurate and even when they are they really don't tell you much of anything useful. they are almost always nothing more than advertising buzz. ignore them, nothing to see here, move along.
the only real way to know if a sword is too hard, too soft, or just right is to experience it yourself or take the word of someone you can trust. thus we do reviews.
also ignore the type of steel listed in these advertisements for almost exactly the same reasons.
|
|
|
|
Post by Cold Napalm on Oct 6, 2010 6:54:23 GMT
I suspect that the DF fitting are made from cast zinc alloy or aluminum. At that size, they can't be steel with the sword stats they listed. Not to mention casting steel fitting like that would be pretty dang expensive...even for chinese forge cost as that isn't something anybody can do. In anycase, I just don't trust those swords enough to try it out at 150 bucks (what I can get a tinker line sword for)...much less what they charge.
As far as steel type...ignore the steel type. Unless it's 1030 steel, it's the smith that matters more then the metal. 1030 won't harden because the carbon content is too low so in that case, the metal matters quite a bit. And that's pretty much the ONLY time the metal matters very much.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2010 13:25:04 GMT
My son is really into the who Templers/Hospitallers thing and I thought getting him a sword that he could pass down generation to generation would be cool. I guess cutting would be a priority should the zombie horde invasion begin anytime soon, but I don't think practicing sword fighting techniques would be a priority. For that I plan on getting him some practice wood swords. I think I'm going to go with this one: www.kultofathena.com/product.asp ... ith+Fuller And maybe later ask around on how to thicken up the grip on it. |
|
|
|
Post by johnapsega on Oct 6, 2010 16:49:26 GMT
that is a great sword once the edge is fixed it's amazing. However I don't have an awnser on historical accuracy for a templer hospitaler type person.
|
|
