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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 14:17:19 GMT
Hello there, I recently received my new Raptor- I'm really happy with, killed a few pumpkins, water bottles are next. I think I've been taking good care of the blade- I first wipe it with 90% alcohol and then oil it with mineral oil. Just recently though, I noticed a few darker spots on the steel's surface- they are only visible under a certain angle but won't come out no matter what I do. Is this something normal or should I polish them out immediately? I jut hope it isn't rust starting to form.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 16:42:35 GMT
it could be possible that there is some acidity in the pumpkin "blood" you killed. with most vegetables or meats, you would have this problem. so the assumption would be safe to add credibility to the pumpkin likewise.
if tis is the case, it would be a form of acid etching. try polishing with a VERY fine abrasive cloth... around 2000 grit.
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 28, 2010 17:15:01 GMT
a long time a ago I did some slicing of bananas I'd strung up from my ceiling (fun!). After this I thought I had cleaned the blade properly but a few days later I noticed black lines/marks starting to appear on the blade- they never got worse- didn't turn to rust, but they also were impossible to clean off. I had given up on these until someone here suggested Mothers Mag & Aluminum PolishThis worked perfectly for me. Be careful though if using as it will remove an etched hamon. It could also leave a 'clean spot' in that it might polish the blade where used to a higher finish than the rest. Mothers and fine grit sanding paper are available at most auto parts shops. You can also try search in sword maintenance for more on polishes/ fine grit sanding.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 17:34:37 GMT
-what cris and sirtre said, it's revenge of the fruits Do not expect them to have a neutral pH and because the juices are organic, they will mix very very easily with the light layer of oil on the blade. Wiping the blade "clean" and then reoiling it is not enough (you are just trapping in some mild acids), you gotta do a real clean right after cutting - rubbing alcohol should do the trick. I would recommend Nevrdull as another possible alternative to chris' -(I love it) that you can find at any autobody shop (great for chrome), has very very fine abrasives in the wool that will leave a mirror polish on the blade. It should be fine to use on TH blades with an etched hamon (I have used it on my pos handmade sword), you really gotta put in some elbow grease, and even then it only slightly mildens the transition line. I use it on my DH blade as well and it just makes the blade more transparent. good luck! it sounds like there is very little damage so don't overly worry too much. edit: what chris said; nevr dull will also leave a higher polish if you rub in 1 spot; gotta do the whole blade, but it will be much better!
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 28, 2010 17:43:50 GMT
I would recommend Nevrdull as another possible alternative to chris' -(I love it) that you can find at any autobody shop (great for chrome), has very very fine abrasives in the wool that will leave a mirror polish on the blade. It should be fine to use on TH blades with an etched hamon (I have used it on my pos handmade sword), you really gotta put in some elbow grease, and even then it only slightly mildens the transition line. I have also heard good things about nevrdullWith respect to darkrice ;D I just wanted to add to always start easy when polishing your blade. Everbody has a different idea of what a lot or a little 'elbow grease' means, and everybody has a different idea of what changes to the look of a blade is acceptable. I only mention this because in one of the old threads on using polishes/sandpaper there were a couple of people who wer very depressed that they'd over polished their blade due to hard polishing without first checking the effects.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 17:54:33 GMT
^ whoops, sorry. I was not very clear. I tried to remove the fake/ wire brushed hamon with nevr dull and it just would not polish out. I finally had to go at it with 600 grit and then go back up. I saw the raptors and man am i jealous ---wish I had waited a bit. I cannot see a hamon in the pictures, did they even take the time to put in 1 on a TH blade? Either way the raptors are very high quality. I have been working on customizing the living crap out of mine and ending up pouring in more cash and effort into a cheaper sword
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 18:05:59 GMT
Thanks for the tips Fruit and vegetables will be off my cutting list from now on- I will be doing a full repolish soon to get it to get a mirror finish so that should pretty much eliminate all the spots so far. The sword is TH with no hamon so I won't have to worry about ruining it. I was just worried there was something wrong with the way I tended to the blade. Oh and I also whanted to ask what exactly is the polishing process on the kissaki different from the other parts of the blade(using sandpaper)
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2010 0:01:35 GMT
i use never dull to do the fruit be gone thing too. but what works real good is water that has baking soda in it. let baking soda settle so it doesnt leave grit. it can be abrasive. this will neutralize pH. then alcohol... dry... then never dull. then alcohol... dry... then oil.
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