Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 15:21:20 GMT
Is it ok to use the accusharp on the Tinker Pearce Bastard Sword with fuller, or will it damage the blade to much?
|
|
|
Post by enkidu on Sept 21, 2010 15:36:37 GMT
Some will hate me... i would say yes you can. Sure it will make your edge angle a bit too step and you wont be able to correct it after, but for a budget blade which already have an edge i wouldnt mind too much. just dont overdo it. And touch it up with sand paper afterwards.
But.
Look at the tutorial Tom K. did, it isnt that hard to acheive a good sharpening and not only you'll aquire some valuable experience for your next blades but you'll probably get better results.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 16:19:38 GMT
Thanks! I think I will check out Tom's tutorial. why do people dislike the accusharp though?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 17:01:23 GMT
The accusharp isn't popular because it shreds a secondary bevel into your blade. Files and patients or confinence and Tom method, both finished with sandpaper give a tidier finish. I've used one before. On one of my old blades,after using an accusharp, I sanded the entire bevel with a palm sander and 220 grip paper. That got rid of the secondary bevel in no time. Then I finish with sandpaper down the length of the blade.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 17:11:25 GMT
Hmm. How bad is it to have a secondary bevel?
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on Sept 21, 2010 17:22:00 GMT
That really depends on the angles. The accusharp just sets too steep an angle for most swords and this is bad because it creates an extra level of drag while cutting. The material being cut has to clear that steep bevel first, and then it hits a slightly narrower bevel until the sword clears. Depending on geometry a sword could be anywhere from a diamond profile with a flat grind straight to the edge bearing only one bevel, and usually a shallow one, all the way to some hexagonal, I seem to recall even seeing octagonal geometries. That's right, eight surfaces; four bevels. Not exactly the best for lighter targets.
Mostly the accusharp is a bad idea though because it gives a very rough edge. Bear in mind that as it tears steel off the edge, that steel can get caught in the bits and be dragged along, doing nasty things as it goes.
The best way to sharpen a cheap modem sword is varying grits of sandpaper and a block with a lot of patience and a careful eye.
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Sept 21, 2010 17:24:04 GMT
There are a couple of problems with using an accusharp. The first being the secondary bevel. also, as the accusharp hits spots that are harder or softer in the steel, the bevel will change. For example, if you hit a softer spot, the accusharp remomes more metal, making the bevel inconsistant. Also, it's real easy to screw up with, much easier than if you were drawfiling it. All that being said, it's your blade to do with as you wish. My advice would be to pick up a #2 single cut file and learn drawfiling,then sand. Once you learn how, that knowledge is priceless.
Edit: Random beat me to it
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 17:38:57 GMT
And to add on to all the above, the accusharp type sharpeners remove WAY to much metal. If you have a cheap kitchen knife, or something you don't mind "testing" an accusharp with, do it on that first and watch how much metal gets shredded off.
I used to be like you tho. I used to think "Oh, I'll just accusharp it and be done" but then the more I came to love my swords, the more the idea of "ripping metal off of them to form a sub-par edge" disgusted me.
But, as I've always said. It is your sword, do with it as you please as long as you have all the information available to you. In this case, the accusharp will make a steep, brittle, rough edge. You'll be able to cut bottles with it, but you will feel the bottle resist. If you used sandpaper and patience, your sword will glide through the bottle like it's not even there.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 17:46:28 GMT
Alright, thanks for the info guys! After reading all of this, there is no way I'm going to use the accusharp. I love my swords to much to mess them up with that thing.
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Sept 21, 2010 18:07:47 GMT
good man! now get a nice belt grinder and you'll soon have swords you can save your face with
|
|
|
Post by William Swiger on Sept 21, 2010 18:18:59 GMT
I pretty much do what Avery does with the file and sandpaper. Works pretty good for me.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 18:59:12 GMT
I have found that there is only one way I will use an Accusharp. I only use them on blunt swords (ala, Windlass) to get the edge STARTED, but only started. After the edge is sharp enough, I go back with a file and make it a nice appleseed bevel. But since the Tinker swords already have an edge, go with a file, and if you want, clean it up with a stone. I have found that using a stone after sharpening with a file is unnecessary, I have gotten my swords (and machete) razor sharp with just a good file. However, after the edge dulls a bit, I WOULD suggest using a stone just to touch it up, since you wouldn't be re-profiling it.
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Sept 21, 2010 19:33:01 GMT
I could see using an accusharp the way master does if you lack more serious tools. I still prefer draw filing but it is more work.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 20:57:57 GMT
LoL, I had forgotten so much about my accusharp that I didn't even consider using it to start putting an edge on my Del Tin Moat blade. Dang, that was a LOT of sweat getting that thing sharp, and it's not even where I want it yet. But, I'm past the initial edge stage so no point in it now. I used to use the accusharp on my machetes, but have sense went to the belt grinder with them as well. Btw Tom, that belt grinder you pointed me to is still working incredibly well. I've done away with a few of the safety pieces, like that side plastic thing that was a pain to put on and take off. But I don't put my fingers in there while the thing is one. Also, it's ability to keep my belts tight is still as good as the day I got it. Maybe the newer ones have a reinforced do-hicky thing where as yours didn't? Anyway, thanks again for pointing me to it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 21:11:14 GMT
I have the Tinker pearce bastard sword replacement blade, that I converted into a different type sword. It has a very slight secondary bevel.... almost unnoticeable. The best thing is that the blade is really Really sharp straight out of the box, dude. I cannot see why you want to change the edge, unless you have used yours a lot and it is getting dull.
YES to draw files and sanding blocks... best to use patience and wet stone, tho.
No to accusharp.... I bought one of those for knives, and the angle is too steep for even that.
|
|
|
Post by enkidu on Sept 21, 2010 21:24:10 GMT
LoL, I had forgotten so much about my accusharp that I didn't even consider using it to start putting an edge on my Del Tin Moat blade. Dang, that was a LOT of sweat getting that thing sharp, and it's not even where I want it yet. But, I'm past the initial edge stage so no point in it now. I used to use the accusharp on my machetes, but have sense went to the belt grinder with them as well. Btw Tom, that belt grinder you pointed me to is still working incredibly well. I've done away with a few of the safety pieces, like that side plastic thing that was a pain to put on and take off. But I don't put my fingers in there while the thing is one. Also, it's ability to keep my belts tight is still as good as the day I got it. Maybe the newer ones have a reinforced do-hicky thing where as yours didn't? Anyway, thanks again for pointing me to it. Ah ? And which one is that ?
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Sept 21, 2010 21:40:23 GMT
check the sharpening info post linked in my signature. I have all the info there as to what machine I use and with which belts I use with it and where to get them. basically everything you need to sharpen with a belt grinder.
|
|
Brett Whinnen
Member
I know enough to know I still know nothing
Posts: 208
|
Post by Brett Whinnen on Sept 21, 2010 21:51:15 GMT
I like your new vid the best Tom, the hand sharpening. For a novice like me that feels more comfortable than using a belt sander
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2010 3:46:36 GMT
I could see using an accusharp the way master does if you lack more serious tools. I still prefer draw filing but it is more work. You are absolutely right. If you know how to draw-file decently, definitely go with hat over an Accusharp.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2010 4:36:00 GMT
I have never used an accusharp, never even considered them. I have been collecting blades since before my age was double digits and always preferred wet stones and leather strop like my grandfather taught me. Sand paper works well too and I have taken to use that some.
|
|