Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2010 19:20:19 GMT
I just got my katana a couple weeks ago, and even though I'm am wd-40'ing it about every 3 days (I live in texas where it is extremely humid) spots of what I assume is rust, are popping up all over her like chicken pox. Any advice greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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SlayerofDarkness
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"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Sept 20, 2010 19:42:09 GMT
Um, don't use wd-40? 3-in-1 is what you want... wd 40 is a solvent, not a rust protecter. Great for cleaning your blade, not for protecting it... a LIGHT coat of 3in1 will fix anything more from happening, if I guess correctly, and a quick polish with metal glo or flitz (or anything similar) should take out the small spots. Hope this helps.... -Slayer
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 20, 2010 20:56:35 GMT
WD 40 actually has water in it... have you been coating the blade in it a ton? Is your saya soaked with it because you might not want that....
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2010 21:31:12 GMT
So 3n1 or something like gun oil to keep rust away, and metal glo or glitz to get it away. I assume I can get 3 in 1 Irgun oil at a hardware store, but will I find polish there too or is that stuff I have to order?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2010 21:43:30 GMT
If you could find mother's mag and aluminium, in your hardware store... that works too in removing light pitting. Flitz is also quite common and works just as well as metal glo. For some reason, I could not find metal glo (I'll admit, I am just too lazy ) but any of these metal polish can be obtained through ebay.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2010 22:35:35 GMT
Since you said you were cutting water bottles earlier, I have to ask. How well did you wipe off the blade before noto? If there is a chance that water got into the saya, you may want to take the blade out of it and let the saya dry out for a couple days, just to be safe.
WD40, while there is some mineral oil in it, is primarily a water displacement formula (hence WD40). I don't use it on my blades. Plain ol', home made choji is the way I go.
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 20, 2010 23:18:15 GMT
if you use a polishing cream you haveto be careful about removing a hamon, if your sword has one and it's etched you can polish right off the blade.
You can pick up plain mineral oil at the pharmacy, or at a hardware store- try asking for sewing machine oil at the hardware store.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 2:41:06 GMT
To answer your questions, while I tried to dry off the blade, there's always the chance that a couple drops got in, I'll try drying it out.
My blade doesn't have a hamon so that shouldn't be a problem.
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 21, 2010 3:07:36 GMT
it's not a worry to have a bit in the saya- I was just thinking if there was a whole lot- sounds like yours is fine- I'm sure my sayas all have a good bit of oil soaked in- never been a problem for me but I don't have the humidity issues you have.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 3:21:24 GMT
Having the wooden scabbard soaked in oil is bad for the wooden scabbard in the long run. If I am not mistaken, the wooden scabbard will expand and eventually crack(?). Which is why it is a bad thing to over-oil the blades (not to mention oil might attract dust particles (if I am not mistaken). When oilling my pompeii... I used to use at most two drops of mineral oil and a soft tissue. Nowadays I just give it the "dry silica" treatment lol given that it works pretty well (silicone sprays are not for expensive blades!).
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2010 20:59:33 GMT
The best thing I have *ever* personally used for blade protection are the Sentry Tuf-Cloth products. www.sentrysolutions.com/It's a dry lubricant so it doesn't stay in the saya the way other oil protectants can in my experience, and I've never had a blade rust-spot unless it was through my own negligence (poorly wiping down a blade, etc.).
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Post by chrisperoni on Sept 22, 2010 0:19:19 GMT
Having the wooden scabbard soaked in oil is bad for the wooden scabbard in the long run. If I am not mistaken, the wooden scabbard will expand and eventually crack(?). Which is why it is a bad thing to over-oil the blades (not to mention oil might attract dust particles (if I am not mistaken). When oilling my pompeii... I used to use at most two drops of mineral oil and a soft tissue. Nowadays I just give it the "dry silica" treatment lol given that it works pretty well (silicone sprays are not for expensive blades!). true true- it's a balance we all have to find for what is right for our sword/location/storing/use.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2010 1:48:11 GMT
www.militec-1.com/First off get some high (very high) grit sandpaper or just some Flitz metal polish. Use it to clean off the rust... in fact just give the whole blade a re-touch with the Flitz so you open the grain of the steel. Then clean it off with WD-40 and wipe dry. Apply Militec-1 grease in a very thin layer and rub into the steel so it penetrates the grain. If you want apply some heat with a hair dryer or heat gun. Don't heat too much... just enough for the grease to melt a bit and "absorb" into the steel. Wipe all the excess grease off the blade till its dry to the touch. That's it. I do this and sheath my swords. When I cut with them I wipe them down with a dry towel to get rid of the water then resheathe. No oiling etc there. Also - I don't get hostile when people touch my blade with their greasy hands because there's no fear of staining or rusting the blade. No stains from cutting juicy items like grass, corn stalks, veggies etc. If I was cutting bottles and the blade got some adhesives on it I clean it off with Windex then re-apply a thin layer of Militec-1. I've cut tatami, watermelons, pumpkins, water bottles etc and sheathed my katana for a week without cleaning. Then I go and draw it and cut again the next weekend. No rust or stains on my swords. In fact my beater katana hasn't been cleaned yet this year aside from being wiped down to dry it from water. No rust on it. I've had people accuse me of trying to pass stainless steel swords as high carbon blades because of this. I also use Militec-1 on all my firearms. Great stuff it is.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2010 17:46:27 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2010 0:11:38 GMT
That stuff looks like it should work. I use Break Free on my swords, (sold at walmart) seems to work well.
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