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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2008 4:09:37 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2008 4:14:00 GMT
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Post by themaster293 on Jan 5, 2008 4:58:01 GMT
Looks good.
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Post by cerberus on Jan 5, 2008 6:31:54 GMT
looks good, youre own custom one of a kind KAT. cool
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 5, 2008 7:09:34 GMT
that is just beautiful ...... siruisly amazing
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 0:58:16 GMT
that is just beautiful ...... siruisly amazing you took the words right out of my mouth...
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 6, 2008 1:11:47 GMT
Excellent work, it looks great. Could you write a little tutorial about how you made the wood core at some stage if you get the chance. +1
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 1:30:02 GMT
I like the shark skin. Very unique. it looks very much at home with that tsuba.
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 6, 2008 2:17:27 GMT
all most a perfect match
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 4:43:38 GMT
Excellent work, it looks great. Could you write a little tutorial about how you made the wood core at some stage if you get the chance. +1 * bought replacement seasoned hickory sledgehammer handle at Lowes for less than $20 * cut off a 12" length and split it so that grain juncture when one piece was reversed formed a "V" * traced the nakago on each half of the core and chiselled it out * wrapped nakago in sandpaper and used it to sand out the core inlets * marked and drilled nakago ana with very small drill bit; I only finish ana shaping and placement during final installation * once tolerances were very close, I ziptied the core halves together and did finish sanding of the nakago inlet with the nakago wrapped in finer grit sandpaper * with slightly damp sponge, wiped out interior surfaces of core halves and glued them together with a thin layer of Gorilla Glue securing with c-clamps and zipties for 24-hours * rough-shaped core with belt/disc sander then moved to hasps, files and finally sandpaper * fit fuchi and kashira over core ends then sanded whole core more to accommodate full wrap; rayskin is half as thin and requires much less finish sanding than sharkskin * filed out channel in kashira end to accommodate ito passage * full wrap is just trial and error- dampen, position, wrap and trim until seam fits together perfectly w/o overlap or underlap * dampen core surface and skin inner with moist sponge and wrap tightly around skin securing with zipties and hemp twine after brushing Gorilla Glue somewhat thinly onto core exterior surfaces * do final fitting of f/k and clean up any glue leakage in ana, seam, etc. with file or exacto knife * wrap with ito(or not), install on nakago and fine-tune fit Hope this helps! Jerry
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 6, 2008 5:23:05 GMT
know any thing about a combat warp on the ito?....... oh if I might ask where did you get the shark skin ?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 7:55:02 GMT
I just hope that you made it with the correct physics so that the tsuka is holding the nakago and the pins are there as a support rather than holding the blade in place. Looks nice though, well done
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 9:25:13 GMT
Excellent job
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2008 14:00:39 GMT
know any thing about a combat warp on the ito?....... oh if I might ask where did you get the shark skin ? By combat wrap, do you mean katatemaki? I decided to use no ito primarily due to the thickness of the sharkskin and secondarily due to my liking its appearance as is. Basically, I thought it would make no sense to pay for sharkskin(more expensive and hard to find than rayskin) and then cover it up. I found this black sharkskin on ebay in the crafts section. It was one of two listings for sharkskin but the other one was naturally colored. I just hope that you made it with the correct physics so that the tsuka is holding the nakago and the pins are there as a support rather than holding the blade in place. Looks nice though, well done No worries there, bloodwraith. If you look at the unfinished core pics, you can see it goes onto the nakago up to the last inch or so before requiring light rubber mallet taps to seat. This core fits the nakago WAY better than stock cores because it was carved to fit this nakago specifically. I have experience bedding firearm actions and barrels to gunstocks and this is not much different, truthfully. I used stronger wood than stock, it has thicker tolerances than stock and both core seams are fully overwrapped with no same’ panel inlets creating stress risers. I could use the thing with NO pins but for aesthetics and safety’s sake, I used one removable(screws together)blackened brass neji menuki up front and a new smoked bamboo mekugi in back(which looks like a buffalo horn pin because I touched it up once seated with black lacquer). Thanks to all for your welcomed comments and questions.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2008 9:42:07 GMT
truly beautiful. Awsome job man
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2008 13:09:18 GMT
Truly a fine job!
Great ingeniuity! I have a sword in need of tsuka work. I think I shall attempt this.
+1
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 7, 2008 16:22:46 GMT
what about a layer of cork and cutlers resin on the inside of the handle to absorb shock
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2008 19:15:37 GMT
what about a layer of cork and cutlers resin on the inside of the handle to absorb shock For this particular project, it was not needed as the sharkskin is quite thick and provides some function along those lines by itself. It very well may work, however, under normal same' w/o ito or another type of thinner wrap material.
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jan 8, 2008 1:39:52 GMT
I'm thinking about redoing the tsuka on kagekama my gen2 kat I just need help with the itio wrap
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2008 2:32:57 GMT
Sword,
Search ito. I have seen multiple posts on this topic, and I am fairly certain that there are some good posts on this one.
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