Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 1:50:22 GMT
Ok, so we know that the faux ivory handle is glued onto the blade/nakago. But if thats true, whats up with the "Gold peg" displayed here?  Is it just for display? Thats some missed opportunity by UC to make it a real metal peg. But onto my real question. This is strictly a hypothetical so bear with me. Would it be possible to drill though the ivory handle and nakago, allowing the placement of the pegs to keep the handle in place, thus making it suitable for real cutting? Again, hypothetical, but I am really curious on this one. Thanks! |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 3:08:41 GMT
Gold peg is likely decorative. Also if it's glued to the tsuka, it should be fine to use on light targets like water bottles..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 3:29:20 GMT
Oh, ok, well thats good. I was just thinking about this to make it more secure, like a standard katana, so to speak
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Aug 11, 2010 4:33:42 GMT
*SHOULD* be okay... which is not good enough for me to deem it safe.  I epoxy the tsuka on with my katana anyway, but I wouldn't cut with one that was epoxied only, especially when it's from a company that has only barely earned my acceptance, let alone trust.  I would call this un-useable, personally, based on saftey hazards alone, but that's merely my $0.02. I'd be happy to be corrected, if anyone else knows more about this blade. HTH! ;D -Slayer SPELLING EDIT |
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Avery
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"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
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Post by Avery on Aug 11, 2010 4:43:09 GMT
You know, for a measley 10 grand you could get the real thing. In all seriousness there are a couple of problems with what you suggest. The biggest being we have no way of knowing if it even has a full tang. You could buy one, pop that gaudy looking gold painted...thing, drill through it only to find that there is no tang. The other is that U.C. isn't really trustworthy in the Q.C. department. just my opinion of course, take it with a grain of salt. Edit: I just looked at the picture again, even if it had a full tang that faux gold......thing is sill too far back. |
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 11, 2010 8:10:58 GMT
I bought the Connor and Ducan Katanas and have no intention to cut with them. They are carbon steel and I think the steel is 1045. Pretty much just display stuff.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 20:25:39 GMT
i have them and ive cut with both of the everything from light targets to single mats with no looseness or rattles kultof athena states there battle-ready and i trust them they have a very good customer reputation as for the steel its 1045 full tang they state the worst that will happen is the very end might snap off if you hold it there just like the 10thousand dollar one but other than that i think its pretty securely held on i just wouldnt beat on a tree with it but then again i wouldnt do that with any of my katanas and i have 10 there not made for that
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 20:28:34 GMT
i would say the point just past the gold peg is the weakest point but you still should have two hands on it i highly doubt the blade coming out of the tsuka i think if they thought it would they wouldnt list it as battle-ready light cutter the liability issues come to mind
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 20:29:15 GMT
i polished the hamon out of mine to a very faint one and it looks great
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 20:35:58 GMT
i have a review on page 4 in the fantasy sword section with pics
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2010 23:50:59 GMT
Has anyone seen or used the Damascus versions as I am awaiting mine from Kult..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2010 16:17:50 GMT
i hear there made out of 1060 steel i hope to see a review on that model im thinking of buying one myself
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2010 1:56:54 GMT
As soon as my sword arrives I will do a review on both the Connor and Duncan versions..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2010 8:28:33 GMT
I saw some Damascus versions up for order and they look pretty good.
But again, is the tsuka glued on again like the first version?
Heres from the description:
"The handle grip is cast one-piece hardened resin, to precisely match the look, feel, and weight of real aged ivory. This version features the correct, 24K gold plated extra thick tsuba, authentic metal tang caps, improved sculptural details, and authentic red scabbard with genuine red leather sword hangar to match the one worn by Ramirez in Highlander"
hm..."tang caps."
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2010 22:54:32 GMT
If anyone has taken apart the Marto sword, the UC version isn't that different. It has a aluminum box in the middle that the handle is cast onto. There isn't any type of pin holding in the blade, only a taper to the tang and a small notch at the end. Similar to the guthooks seen on hunting knives. This is there to grip the resin that is holding in the blade. This resin has the consistency of drywall and falls apart at the touch.
If you were to drill closer to the tsuba and put a small pin there, you might be able to use it as a 'Light' cutter. But I don't think it's worth the trouble. Like it's been said before, it's still a decoration.
I have read some emails that Kit Rae sent to a friend and he said the gold pin is decorative also. He was very upset that UC didn't include the lock pin he put into the original construction drawings. This is why he fought to have his name removed from these swords.
Still a nice collectible though.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2010 23:35:08 GMT
i have one and have never worried about it cutting with like i said its a light cutter im not splitting logs with it
i agree though its mainly made as a movie replica and as most of them not a realistic functional weapon
that being said if you wanted to cut with it all the time it would cost you the price of a 1/4 drill bit and a wooden peg obtained at any hardware store for a very cheap price and i would make the hole location about 2in up from the tsuba but like i said iv cut single mats several times with no rattles or looseness maybe im just crazy
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2010 23:39:21 GMT
i would compare it to a musashi presentational sword it has a thin blade at 1045 no-hi helps and it handles nice to me
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2010 0:20:30 GMT
i have one and have never worried about it cutting with like i said its a light cutter im not splitting logs with it i agree though its mainly made as a movie replica and as most of them not a realistic functional weapon that being said if you wanted to cut with it all the time it would cost you the price of a 1/4 drill bit and a wooden peg obtained at any hardware store for a very cheap price and i would make the hole location about 2in up from the tsuba but like i said iv cut single mats several times with no rattles or looseness maybe im just crazy Not crazy at all. I know plenty of people who have the UC swords and are very happy with them. But they know the swords limits. But as a 'community' here, it pays to look out for one another, you know? |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2010 14:55:56 GMT
Oh I completely agree I think for sake of argument someone needs to take the plunge and destruction test one to see the limits of them
Then the issue can be put to rest
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2010 14:58:10 GMT
I know Paul did the global gear review of there model
And it came out a great cutter i think there handles made the same way
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I epoxy the tsuka on with my katana anyway, but I wouldn't cut with one that was epoxied only, especially when it's from a company that has only barely earned my acceptance, let alone trust. 
