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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2010 23:08:31 GMT
Hello all, As I am new to the forum and the word of swords I am hoping that someone can give me some guidance. I recently purchased the Cheness carbon steel iaito for form practice etc. Yesterday when applying a then coat of oil to the blade, I noticed that when pressure is put on the back of the habaki, the habaki and the top seppa will slide slightly forward toward the edge of the blade. The habaki will not move up or down on the blade nor side to side. Is this something to be concerned about? How would I go about fixing this? Any and all advice is appreciated. - Denul
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2010 1:39:15 GMT
Personally I would put the tiniest amount of JB weld in the habaki and use a fine file or emory board to sand it to a tight fit. Just keep test fitting it between file strokes to its a snug fit.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2010 1:53:36 GMT
That's a great idea! Thanks for the advice.
+1 To you sir
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2010 1:06:08 GMT
I like that Idea too!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2010 23:30:53 GMT
I used the JB weld on the Habaki on my iaito, and it worked GREAT!,
I'm not sure if I would use it on a "cutting" sword or not, someone with more 'know-how' than me would need to look at that I think.
but it was really easy and worked really well!!
+1 from me.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2010 22:19:42 GMT
You could also use low-temp silver-bearing solder (plumbing supply or auto parts store; get the stuff that comes with liquid acid flux, but keep the flux away from the blade - and wash the habaki in baking soda solution when you're done) and a propane torch to fill in the space. The solder, being softer, would conform to the blade as the habaki was tapped on (file away MOST of the excess). You would have to repolish the habaki, though, as the surface would oxidize from the heat.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2010 1:29:41 GMT
You could also use low-temp silver-bearing solder (plumbing supply or auto parts store; get the stuff that comes with liquid acid flux, but keep the flux away from the blade - and wash the habaki in baking soda solution when you're done) and a propane torch to fill in the space. The solder, being softer, would conform to the blade as the habaki was tapped on (file away MOST of the excess). You would have to repolish the habaki, though, as the surface would oxidize from the heat. Ah no you don't want to do that! Heat and swords do not mix in general Birdman. Now this is a iaito so not sure if it is actually Differentially Hardened but if it is heating up the blade will ruin the DH. I am pretty sure most will say not to solder.
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