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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2007 22:33:07 GMT
Hi I have set my mind to be able to polish a blade good enough i know that this is not easy but i like a good challenge :-) I was wondering about waterstones i found some that resell from Germany www.fine-tools.com/japwas.htm The stones i have in mind is this: Small CERAX combination stone (both of them 1000/3000 + 1000/6000) and probably a lower grid around 700 or so. Do anyone has knowledge if this are good enough stones to use on ex cheness, i will not use it right away, i will practice on a low budget sword first until i am satisfied with it. is 6000 grid high enough for a near mirror polish or do i need 8000, or is even 8000 needed? Eventually i intend to polish katana to keep a sharp edge, and i got a project with an old japanese knife that i need to polish and maintain. I would appreciate any help. Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 3:25:02 GMT
Personally, I seem to get the finish I need from 2000 grit. Everyone is different though and it all depends on how"shiny" you want the finished product.
When polishing a production katana remember that if the hamon is etched, it will pretty much dissappear after you have finished. Then your next project will be 'hamon etching'. ;D
You need not have to pay too much for synthetic waterstone, however real Japanese waterstone is a bit more pricier. They say that the best results are achieved with the traditional waterstone, however I only use wet and dry and I have never had any difficulty getting the finish I desire.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 4:57:12 GMT
I don't know much about the stones but here japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=13118 is another web page you might want to look at. I don't know how good they are. Im hoping to get one soon and try it out. Chop, do you know anything about them?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 5:17:50 GMT
I don't know much about the stones but here japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=13118 is another web page you might want to look at. I don't know how good they are. Im hoping to get one soon and try it out. Chop, do you know anything about them? I have never used the waterstones to polish, no. I am very tempted but only really feel the need to polish about once every two years or when required. Too much polishing of a blade is not always a good thing and can, if over done, ruin the blades geometry. As I look at my blades as functional weapons and because they are production blades, the polishing side of things does not really bother me too much. I only really do it as a rust preventative so I feel the waterstones would be waisted on my frequency. When I win the lottery if I had a nihonto however, I would send it back to Japan for a professional polish. As I regard myself more a swordsman than a swordsmith, aesthetics are to me not of great importance but if you want to try your hand at a 'serious' polish of one of your blades I would recommend investing in waterstones, yes.
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Post by handforgedkatanas on Aug 13, 2007 5:22:07 GMT
Hey chop,do you use 2000 stone or paper and if so how do you hold the paper,I mean do you wrap it around anything.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 6:07:53 GMT
Hey chop,do you use 2000 stone or paper and if so how do you hold the paper,I mean do you wrap it around anything. I use the paper and yes I wrap it around a small block of wood to create a flat surface, otherwise it won't polish evenly.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 6:58:24 GMT
Hey Chop, I have a cheap carbon steel blade that i have bent a couple of times due to cuts that were to heavy for that type of a blade. I dont plan on using it to cut because i dont wish to have it snap in half during a cut so it's just collecting dust at the moment. I think it could be a good learning experience.
I just was not sure about the stones because they are manufactured and not natural.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 10:03:27 GMT
Hey Chop, I have a cheap carbon steel blade that i have bent a couple of times due to cuts that were to heavy for that type of a blade. I dont plan on using it to cut because i dont wish to have it snap in half during a cut so it's just collecting dust at the moment. I think it could be a good learning experience. I just was not sure about the stones because they are manufactured and not natural. Yeah mate it's always best to practice on an old blade first. Nice one. At this level , the manufactured stones would be OK for pretty much all your polishing needs.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 14:16:38 GMT
Thanks a lot for the links and info.. The japanesewoodworker is outside the EU and this causes enormous fees for shipping and import fees + customs costs (about 30-40% higher price) The site i linked to first cost only 9 euro for shipping to Sweden and no taxes since it is within the EU. But has anyone used a 6000grid stone? What i have been reading on different places is that stones has a huge difference from paper, but i do not know anything of this. Perhaps 2000 is enough, but i want it very very nicely done so i think 6000 will be good depending on when i polished it with a 6000 stone :-) The sword i will practice on is the musashi sword i got that was F(#*"ed it will be nice to train on, i have already sharpen it so now it can cut things but it is still crooked (but Zinje is an angle refunded me more than he needed to) I really look forward to be testing this, the Japanese knife i will polish if it is as good as i think then it will be harden and have a hamon that will be good, if not i will etch an hamon, and when i am done i will post 200 pictures of the knife (before- during- after)
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 14:49:59 GMT
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