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Post by johnlundemo1 on Jul 23, 2010 17:52:55 GMT
The main problem I have are that it's not all one piece of steel, and that the guard area is too big, needlessly increasing over all length. If I could keep the OAL of the sword to 30" or even 31" for a 24" blade, it would be perfect. Why do you figure the steel bar has to be so thick, John? L6 wouldn't hold any edge over 5160, even during destructive usage? What are the main advantages of O1 over L6 or 5160? Thanks!!! Personally I don't see a problem with this design. It would have to be started from some thick stock like 3/8th and the blade and grip area would be thinner of course with distal taper etc and the grip area would be thinner to acomodate the slabs with leather wrap or whatever you said.. There would be plenty of pommel and guard weight to balance it out mint. I made some stuff like this when I was first starting out for sparring purposes and I tell you it can work. I don't know about getting L6 for it though, would be tough to find that thick and it would be over kill anyway and unless it was turned to bainite it's performance not any better than 5160. Most folks don't use L6 for broadswords. But since this is a shorter sword type and solid construction some O-1 tool steel would be perfect and I happen to have a piece 3/8th thick and long and wide enough for this. Just putting it out there. Good luck!
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Post by johnlundemo1 on Jul 23, 2010 17:59:28 GMT
The main problem I have are that it's not all one piece of steel, and that the guard area is too big, needlessly increasing over all length. If I could keep the OAL of the sword to 30" or even 31" for a 24" blade, it would be perfect. Why do you figure the steel bar has to be so thick, John? L6 wouldn't hold any edge over 5160, even during destructive usage? What are the main advantages of O1 over L6 or 5160? Thanks!!! Personally I don't see a problem with this design. It would have to be started from some thick stock like 3/8th and the blade and grip area would be thinner of course with distal taper etc and the grip area would be thinner to acomodate the slabs with leather wrap or whatever you said.. There would be plenty of pommel and guard weight to balance it out mint. I made some stuff like this when I was first starting out for sparring purposes and I tell you it can work. I don't know about getting L6 for it though, would be tough to find that thick and it would be over kill anyway and unless it was turned to bainite it's performance not any better than 5160. Most folks don't use L6 for broadswords. But since this is a shorter sword type and solid construction some O-1 tool steel would be perfect and I happen to have a piece 3/8th thick and long and wide enough for this. Just putting it out there. Good luck! The reason the guard and pomel have to be so thick is that the grip area will stick out and be ugly and the guard and pomnmmel sections would need to be thicker for balance. I thought this was important the grip section should not stcik out thicker than guard and pomel as it would look silly. The guard and pommel at 3/8th would be adventageous with the grip being even and it would look and feel much better than say a Gus Trim tactical with grip being thicker than whole sword
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2010 20:24:03 GMT
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Post by johnlundemo1 on Jul 24, 2010 1:22:41 GMT
wrong John answering here, but what the hell... regarding thickness - I think John L wants to give you some width for the integral guard beyond the actual blade and handle thickness. educated guess... I was PM'd to answer or I probably wouldn't have.
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Post by johnlundemo1 on Jul 24, 2010 1:32:09 GMT
Thanks Bergthor!! Those clips from " The Vikings" are hilarious;)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 3:25:20 GMT
Hahahah, I knew you would appreciate that. That runs through my mind every time I see your posts!
I look forward to seeing the magic you are drafting up for me. Can't wait!
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