Ultimate Survival / Modern Combat sword **UPDATE**
Jul 22, 2010 21:06:13 GMT
Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2010 21:06:13 GMT
For those who remembered, I have been seeking to have an ultimate survival / modern combat sword made. The bottom of the post shows the description I was originally quoted from the sword smith I had wanted to commission the work to.
Today I received a sketch of what the sword would look like (picture attached). To my shock, it is fairly heavily modified from what I was originally quoted. It has a 3" longer over all length (33" total now vs. 30"), 1/2" shorter blade, and a pommel that is now no longer one piece with the rest of the blade, but attached.
Most of the problem comes from the modified guard that is in the picture. Instead of just a simple raised area, it is a very wide 2.5" section. I was told that this was done to make the blade "safe" for handling???
I explained that even a machete has no guard, and is safe, so a simple raised area would be 10 times safer than that, AND would take up a lot less space. I mentioned that 33" is 3" shorter than a full size 36" viking sword that has a 30" blade. I was told that 3" makes a big difference, which is why I am perplexed that they lengthened my sword 3" and then said in response to my concern "It's only 3" longer, it won't make a difference" Somehow a 6" hilt turned into a 9.5" one, and they won't explain to me what mentally changed in the mind of the smith that made them decide to alter the design.
They told me that the design is the best possible way to incorporate what I want into a sword, and to either take it or leave it?
In regards to the pommel, I was told that a proper counter weight sized pommel couldn't be made out of the same piece of steel. Ok, but if this was the case, why didn't they know/tell me that then? Also, if you note in the end of the original description, they say that the balance point on the blade for a short sword, neglects the need to have a substantial counter balance). I asked if they could cut the pommel in half, so it would have a flat end and save an inch off the sword. They said that the full size pommel is needed for proper counter balance??
When I inquired about welding the attached pommel to the tang to make it permanent since it is now no longer all one piece of steel, I was told it couldn't be done, but wasn't explained as to why. IF you can properly weld a tang than why not a pommel?
What do you think? Are my requests unreasonable?
The best sword for the type of use you are going for is something closer to a Roman gladius rather than a viking sword. The viking sword will not respond well to chopping wood or tree limbs due to the length and relatively thin nature of the blade. Basically, the sword will flex side to side when it hits a hard object, and in a hard blow on a hard object the blade will twist at the point of contact. Twisting is VERY bad for a sword blade and would not only result in a dangerous cut but also most likely in damage to the sword regardless of whether it is L6 or any other material.
From the use you are describing, what you need is something shorter and more robust, preferably lacking a fuller. What we would propose is a blade 24-26", 6" handle for 30-32" OAL, 2" at base tapering to 1.5" near the tip, hollow ground with a nice center ridge. This sword would be all one piece, with blade, handle, and "guard" (swelled area rather than a true guard) forged from a single piece of L6 tool steel. The handle would be stylishly wrapped in black parachute cord for a firm, comfortable and durable grip that will not degrade in the elements.
Short swords have historically been known for mean chopping ability due to the robust blades and balance points proportionally further down the blade. Since they are smaller and lighter than full-length swords, short swords can be quick and maneuverable without the same need for counter-balance. The sword described above would be essentially a field-grade oversize gladius, and would perform all of the desired functions much better and more safely than a full sword ever could. It will also be much easier to pack into the backcountry and will be far more useable for cleaning game, etc.
Today I received a sketch of what the sword would look like (picture attached). To my shock, it is fairly heavily modified from what I was originally quoted. It has a 3" longer over all length (33" total now vs. 30"), 1/2" shorter blade, and a pommel that is now no longer one piece with the rest of the blade, but attached.
Most of the problem comes from the modified guard that is in the picture. Instead of just a simple raised area, it is a very wide 2.5" section. I was told that this was done to make the blade "safe" for handling???
I explained that even a machete has no guard, and is safe, so a simple raised area would be 10 times safer than that, AND would take up a lot less space. I mentioned that 33" is 3" shorter than a full size 36" viking sword that has a 30" blade. I was told that 3" makes a big difference, which is why I am perplexed that they lengthened my sword 3" and then said in response to my concern "It's only 3" longer, it won't make a difference" Somehow a 6" hilt turned into a 9.5" one, and they won't explain to me what mentally changed in the mind of the smith that made them decide to alter the design.
They told me that the design is the best possible way to incorporate what I want into a sword, and to either take it or leave it?
In regards to the pommel, I was told that a proper counter weight sized pommel couldn't be made out of the same piece of steel. Ok, but if this was the case, why didn't they know/tell me that then? Also, if you note in the end of the original description, they say that the balance point on the blade for a short sword, neglects the need to have a substantial counter balance). I asked if they could cut the pommel in half, so it would have a flat end and save an inch off the sword. They said that the full size pommel is needed for proper counter balance??
When I inquired about welding the attached pommel to the tang to make it permanent since it is now no longer all one piece of steel, I was told it couldn't be done, but wasn't explained as to why. IF you can properly weld a tang than why not a pommel?
What do you think? Are my requests unreasonable?
The best sword for the type of use you are going for is something closer to a Roman gladius rather than a viking sword. The viking sword will not respond well to chopping wood or tree limbs due to the length and relatively thin nature of the blade. Basically, the sword will flex side to side when it hits a hard object, and in a hard blow on a hard object the blade will twist at the point of contact. Twisting is VERY bad for a sword blade and would not only result in a dangerous cut but also most likely in damage to the sword regardless of whether it is L6 or any other material.
From the use you are describing, what you need is something shorter and more robust, preferably lacking a fuller. What we would propose is a blade 24-26", 6" handle for 30-32" OAL, 2" at base tapering to 1.5" near the tip, hollow ground with a nice center ridge. This sword would be all one piece, with blade, handle, and "guard" (swelled area rather than a true guard) forged from a single piece of L6 tool steel. The handle would be stylishly wrapped in black parachute cord for a firm, comfortable and durable grip that will not degrade in the elements.
Short swords have historically been known for mean chopping ability due to the robust blades and balance points proportionally further down the blade. Since they are smaller and lighter than full-length swords, short swords can be quick and maneuverable without the same need for counter-balance. The sword described above would be essentially a field-grade oversize gladius, and would perform all of the desired functions much better and more safely than a full sword ever could. It will also be much easier to pack into the backcountry and will be far more useable for cleaning game, etc.