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Post by chrisperoni on Jul 18, 2010 8:44:31 GMT
(if this is already compiled somewhere then please let me know) So far I've read that Mothers Mag polish is a good choice when polishing without sanding; but I can't find it anywhere...
I think it would be great if we could get a list of good and bad polishes- liquid, paste, cream, soaked pads etc., with descriptions of how and why they work or damage. It'd be nice if the places available to purchase were included. (maybe even sticky the thread if it catches on?)
I want to clean up a small bit of staining on one sword but don't want to spend the time sanding the entire blade- any suggestions?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2010 19:22:19 GMT
/index.cgi?board=japaneseswords&action=display&thread=15157&page=1
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Joe111Black
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Walking a small path between heaven and hell.
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Post by Joe111Black on Jul 21, 2010 1:55:49 GMT
I use Flitz paste. Here is a link below for a full description. www.flitz-polish.com/index.php?page=Product.Product&externalId=541So far I really like this polish. I have been able to remove ''very light scratches'' There are stronger more abrasive ones out there but I don't want to risk it. I purchased a small tube at Ace Hardware for below about $9 dollars. I have not used it on rust so I am not sure how it performs in that aspect.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2010 14:31:57 GMT
If you can't find Mother's, go down to any hardware store or super center and go into the automotive section and ask anyone for a polishing compound that will work on carbon steel. Most all polishers are chemically the same as Mother's or Metal Glo (which are different, but doesn't matter for polishing swords) Edit: And I just caught the last part of your post. As for the stain... if you have a bench grinder and a cloth wheel, you'd be in business. I'm not saying that it would remove the stain, but you could take 1000-2000 grit sand paper to the stain and then just repolish that area. I ground off the corners on the HT GSOW pommel with a 120 grit sanding wheel, then took the pommel to my cloth wheel + jewlers green-bar-of-polishing and was able to blend it all back to the uniform mirror polish that the Euro H/T blades are nefarious for. Hope that I helped in some way, what with all the blabbering I do.
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Post by chrisperoni on Jul 26, 2010 2:38:10 GMT
If you can't find Mother's, go down to any hardware store or super center and go into the automotive section and ask anyone for a polishing compound that will work on carbon steel. Most all polishers are chemically the same as Mother's or Metal Glo (which are different, but doesn't matter for polishing swords) Edit: And I just caught the last part of your post. As for the stain... if you have a bench grinder and a cloth wheel, you'd be in business. I'm not saying that it would remove the stain, but you could take 1000-2000 grit sand paper to the stain and then just re polish that area. I ground off the corners on the HT GSOW pommel with a 120 grit sanding wheel, then took the pommel to my cloth wheel + jewelers green-bar-of-polishing and was able to blend it all back to the uniform mirror polish that the Euro H/T blades are nefarious for. Hope that I helped in some way, what with all the blabbering I do. I might try that- I'm just worried about keeping a uniform polish- but I guess I have to decide whats worse... possibly having the polish not match exactly right or definitely having black marks on the blade. Does it matter that the stains are right on the ha?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2010 4:45:00 GMT
Here is a list of polish from what I've read in various forums and some from my nonprofessional polish. Never use any of the polish listed below on your antique sword or any blades before or after professional polish because it will alter the polish of the blade. The list runs from least abrasive to most abrasive:
1) Noxon 7: This one is my personal favorite because it neutralized rust quickly. Be careful not too use too much force when polishing because could affect fine blade polish. Not very effective at removing light visible scratches. Might not be available at some automotive store, but easily available on ebay. 2) Nevrdull: A little more abrasive than Noxon 7, somewhat effective at removing light scratches but you might need some effort doing so. Be careful of the cotton wad as it is abrasive too. Neutralized rust too. Easily available at local automotive store. 3) Mother's mag and aluminum: Removes patina and light scratches easily. Leaves a thin residual on the blade that could be remove with some cloth an alcohol. Easily removes Hanwei frosty hamon, so for those who liked the Hanwei frosty hamon, don't use this. 4) Flitz: No experience on it. From what I've heard it has about the same abrasiveness as metal-glo, which brings to... 5) Metal glo: Advertised as not very abrasive, but I strongly disagree because I find it very aggressive. Like mother's mag, it leaves a thick residual on blade. Alcohol or other solvent like goo gone can remove it. Great at removing scratches that mother's mag cannot handle, but applying too much force induces visible scratches (from my personal experience). Leaves a mirror polish, which is both a good and bad thing. Ideal for a quick/(lazy?) mirror polish after 2000 grit sandpaper on blade. 6) Simichrome: No experience, except I've heard that it is more abrasive than metal glo/flitz. I rarely need polish that is more abrasive than metal-glo.
From here any deeper scratches should be dealt it with wet/dy automotive sandpaper (3M recommended). Do not use sandpaper unless you have some experience in restoring a basic polish. Most of the polish/sandpaper are easily available on the internet/ebay.
Honorable mention: The pink eraser at the tip of your pencil. No experience on its abrasiveness.
I will mention again that any metal polish can easily alter the polish of the blade. Never use it on expensive art blade or antique, unless you are a professional polisher yourself. Leave it to the professional. Most important advice: when in doubt, don't!
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