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Post by tajima on Jul 11, 2007 4:03:43 GMT
Yes! I have finally made a hamon. It was using just mud/clay mix that was dried (No revealing secrets - special ingrediants were added!) and applied in a pattern to the back of my ex-kitchen knife throwing dagger. After the hamon was there, I attempted vinegar etching which only works in a darkish light. And a note on the knife sharpening, the drop point at the back of the knife is sharpened along with the rest of the blade for easy entrance. Here are some pictures of the non-vinegar etch: Vinegar-etched (Inside the red): Enjoy! (This one goes out to wildwolf).
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 13, 2007 13:48:54 GMT
Whats with the photography, lol? I feel like I'm in a psychadelic oliver stone forum. How did you heat and cool it?
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Post by tajima on Jul 13, 2007 23:10:51 GMT
Lol, it is quite impossible to see the hamon in photos so I enhanced the lighting a little. Sorry.
Oh, and to heat it I used a brand called HotRox's recycled wood logs lit with firelighters and cooled in a Corinthians tin filled with water. Surprisingly, the blade almost exploded when I put it in because all of the clay shot off. Scary...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2007 11:49:24 GMT
well next time use oil to cool it in that way it can't explode cause oil won't vaporize when heated and thus creating a stronger blade and it reduces the change it will blow in your face
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Post by tajima on Jul 24, 2007 5:47:46 GMT
Yeah, but then it would just light the oil. See mythbusters.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jul 24, 2007 13:18:20 GMT
Well, I can see in pic #3 the "stainless steel" stamp on the blade, which explains why the vinegar etch is not working so well for you. Nice first attempt though, and the hamon IS visible.
Also, Stainless "steels" tend to have little or no carbon content, relying instead on their chromium content to develop hardness. One of the many issues you face because of this is that chromium is a big atom and for that reason does not respond well to tempering. It also tends to make the steel very deep-hardening, with an abrupt state change at the martensitic boundary. In layman's terms, the edge tends to break off along the hamon line. For this and a number of other reasons I don't recommend stainless steels for differential heat treatment.
Do NOT quench steel in oil using this process; you will be sorry on several different levels. If you live through it. That was bad advice so don't take it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2007 19:53:21 GMT
I honestly can't see anything on those pics...
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Post by Dan Davis on Jul 24, 2007 20:49:17 GMT
I honestly can't see anything on those pics... Look at pic #2, just above the point where the tip turns down into the clipped point of the blade. Just above that is a visible white line that wavers across the area and follows the back of the blade. This is called the Ha-buchi and is the transitional zone between hard and soft steels. Look in pic #3 for the same visual effect on the edge of the blade. It rides closer to the edge toward the back of the knife, but rapidly climbs up the blade as it gets toward the tip, where the steel is much thinner.
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Post by tajima on Jul 24, 2007 21:40:15 GMT
Wow, thanks wildwolf.
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