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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2007 2:45:37 GMT
Can a home power drill drill through metal? I'm building up my workshop for my custom projects, and the major stumbling block I'm having is drilling holes for tangs and so forth. Can I get a drill set to do this myself, or would I be better off just taking it to a machine shop. If so, what sort of drill/bit should I get? Thanx in advance.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2007 2:59:24 GMT
If it helps Cecil over at Kris said to Erick Nelson that to get through the tang of a KC Bingo Mihara he needed to go to a good Harware shop and buy a Tungsten Carbide drill bit and on a normal drill that would work...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2007 3:23:26 GMT
Hmm... so the right bit would do it? Interesting...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2007 3:25:15 GMT
I have drilled through 14 gage steel with a typical Dewalt drill. More important then the drill is the drillbit. If you get a cheap drillbit, it may not work, or may work and wear out after a few holes. If you get the $7 ones that are coated you won't have any trouble and you will get good use out of them.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2007 7:55:13 GMT
When buying tools, you get what you pay for. Really cheap drillbits are often very poorly made. With a normal power drill, and a decent drillbit, the tang shouldn't be a problem at all. I've put new nakagoana in my PK - no sweat.
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Post by ShooterMike on Jul 3, 2007 18:07:04 GMT
I have to add my voice in support of what Tsafa and PK already said. I've had good luck with new DeWalt titanium nitride-coated tungsten carbide drill bit sets from Home Depot or Lowe's (the most common DIY stores in my area). The important things are that the bits be tungsten carbide and sharp, which usually means new. If you're unsuccessful in trying to drill holes in steel, don't give up until you know both those criteria are met by your drill bit.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2007 0:58:50 GMT
Cool, thanx for all the info guys.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 10, 2007 5:27:33 GMT
So, yes, I got a B&D drill and some bits and they worked great! I'm almost finished with my shinobigatana and my Patton sabre both. I have some 'before' and 'in process' pics and I'm going to take some 'after' pics and post them all when I'm through.
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Post by chakobsa on Jul 13, 2007 9:27:38 GMT
Tungsten carbide or titanium coated bits are best, regular HSS bits will take forever. For the small diameter holes you'll be drilling you'll want your drill set to a fairly high speed, also, an engineers punch is essential if you want to drill accurately. Work like this should always be firmly held in a vice or some kind of purpose built jig. If you don't do this and opt just to hold the work or clamp it under your foot, your blade or whatever you're drilling will become a whirling engine of destruction once the drill bit emerges out the other side of the piece and the resistance is drastically reduced. Not nice. ;D
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 13, 2007 13:42:16 GMT
whirling engine of destruction ;D Well said. LOL Good safety point - something you learn after it happens once. Not nice, no. +1
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