Making my repro sabre's measurements like an orig
May 8, 2007 22:24:11 GMT
Post by Deleted on May 8, 2007 22:24:11 GMT
Hello all,
I have a MRL repro 1860 Lt Cav sabre (U.S. Civil War), which is a good repro and close to the original thing. I measured an original contract 1860 Lt. Cavalry Sabre made by Henry Boker of Solingen, Germany (see my review of it which includes comparison measurements of my repro). The difference is this: The original is 1 1/8" wide near the hilt, 1" at mid blade, 7/8" at about 6 1/2" from point, and 3/4" wide three inches from point. The repro is 1" at mid blade but stays 1" wide even 6 1/2" from point, etc., etc..
That Boker sabre is one of the most well balanced and handling sabres I have ever held. While the repro is not too bad, it does not compare and is a tiny bit blade heavy compared to the original. So I have been working on it to make it the same measurements of the original.
I ground the edge down progressivily from the mid point to where I have it at the same measurements as far as widths go. Now I have got the repro's blade at the same measurements as the original at the mid blade, 6 1/2" from point, and 3" from point spots. Of course now I have to resharpen some of it to even put it at the "dull but close to sharp or easily sharpenable" edge that MRL has on all their swords and sabres. Being as I had to grind down like an eighth to almost a quarter of an inch in the area closer to the point, the edge is understandably thicker in the area of the last several inches to the point. I will let you know how it turns out. I have to be careful though.
Now speaking of being careful, let me rest anyone's fears that might be arising; I did not ruin my blade. I took the advice that was given me on this forum and in PM and took my time, using a lot of patience, and made sure I did not overheat my blade or grind it unevenly. I held it with my fingers as I did the grinding, and when it got warm, I laid it down and went and watched TV for a while. As per the advice given, each and everytime I felt the blade warm up a bit, I laid it down to cool and waited a good fifteen minutes.
So, that part is about over. It was easy actually as long as I just took my time and used plenty of patience. It is nice and even and not bad spots. But I am a tad worried or nervous about grinding the edge sides down to reshape and resharpen the edge, etc.. Any suggestions or advice? I don't want to screw up now.
I suppose I will just take my time and be very dilligent and careful and keep an eye on it and just grind the eged area down back into the shape it is meant to be. I reckon I will use the rougher stone on my grinder at first to get the thickest part down, and then switch to my smoother or fine stone and then buff out any file or stone marks afterwards. But I will let y'all know how it turns out.
Another thought: I also have a friend who owns a sharpening business in Montgomery. They sharpen anything from axes to huge sawmill blades. I am sure some of the huge things I have seen in there are tempered or good steel and they know how not to ruin it. I will just ask my buddy about all that. He has been in the business for 30 years, haven taken it over from his dad and trained under him.
Take care,
FB
I have a MRL repro 1860 Lt Cav sabre (U.S. Civil War), which is a good repro and close to the original thing. I measured an original contract 1860 Lt. Cavalry Sabre made by Henry Boker of Solingen, Germany (see my review of it which includes comparison measurements of my repro). The difference is this: The original is 1 1/8" wide near the hilt, 1" at mid blade, 7/8" at about 6 1/2" from point, and 3/4" wide three inches from point. The repro is 1" at mid blade but stays 1" wide even 6 1/2" from point, etc., etc..
That Boker sabre is one of the most well balanced and handling sabres I have ever held. While the repro is not too bad, it does not compare and is a tiny bit blade heavy compared to the original. So I have been working on it to make it the same measurements of the original.
I ground the edge down progressivily from the mid point to where I have it at the same measurements as far as widths go. Now I have got the repro's blade at the same measurements as the original at the mid blade, 6 1/2" from point, and 3" from point spots. Of course now I have to resharpen some of it to even put it at the "dull but close to sharp or easily sharpenable" edge that MRL has on all their swords and sabres. Being as I had to grind down like an eighth to almost a quarter of an inch in the area closer to the point, the edge is understandably thicker in the area of the last several inches to the point. I will let you know how it turns out. I have to be careful though.
Now speaking of being careful, let me rest anyone's fears that might be arising; I did not ruin my blade. I took the advice that was given me on this forum and in PM and took my time, using a lot of patience, and made sure I did not overheat my blade or grind it unevenly. I held it with my fingers as I did the grinding, and when it got warm, I laid it down and went and watched TV for a while. As per the advice given, each and everytime I felt the blade warm up a bit, I laid it down to cool and waited a good fifteen minutes.
So, that part is about over. It was easy actually as long as I just took my time and used plenty of patience. It is nice and even and not bad spots. But I am a tad worried or nervous about grinding the edge sides down to reshape and resharpen the edge, etc.. Any suggestions or advice? I don't want to screw up now.
I suppose I will just take my time and be very dilligent and careful and keep an eye on it and just grind the eged area down back into the shape it is meant to be. I reckon I will use the rougher stone on my grinder at first to get the thickest part down, and then switch to my smoother or fine stone and then buff out any file or stone marks afterwards. But I will let y'all know how it turns out.
Another thought: I also have a friend who owns a sharpening business in Montgomery. They sharpen anything from axes to huge sawmill blades. I am sure some of the huge things I have seen in there are tempered or good steel and they know how not to ruin it. I will just ask my buddy about all that. He has been in the business for 30 years, haven taken it over from his dad and trained under him.
Take care,
FB