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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2007 0:48:57 GMT
A few will remember my Espada y daga: I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions about your C.A.S. Iberia Espada y Daga. I've got one too and like it a lot. It's advertised as L6 steel. I gather that it has properties similar to 5160, i.e, it's high-carbon spring steel, tough and will take an edge. Looking at the steel I can see undulations and ripples in it and it looks like it though it might have been fire-hardened - but I don't know enough about swords to know for sure how the C.A.S. Iberia pinute y daga is manufactured. BTW right out of the box and after all the grease had been wiped off it lopped large water-filled bottles in half without any problem. I'm just wondering what kind of edge it will take and if it's worth the time and effort to give it a proper edge and practice on straw mats this summer - or just hang it up and admire it. It's something I've been meaning to do for a while but I'd just like to make sure the sword is the right tool for the job, i.e. I don't want to bend it or watch the blade go sailing over my fence into my neighbor's yard...etc. I posted a similar thread over at Swordforums.com but figured that you guys practice with beaters and could offer some practical insight. Any comments would be appreciated. Best, Steve Lamade
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2007 11:02:54 GMT
Good ol' Iberia. this is a very unique looking sword and dagger combo. Can you tell me anything about its Durability?
I am interested in Iberia's lionheart. I own the Lionheart from the now defunct Viciacraft. It is one of the toughest swords in my collection but a little heavy at 4.5 lbs. The Iberia Lionheart is said to be just under 3 lbs. I am just wondering how much durability they had to give up to bring the weight down. I consider this sword type to be one of the most perfect swords for a sword and shieldman. Any info would be appriciated.
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Post by jpfranco on May 5, 2007 11:51:08 GMT
This is one beautiful combo of sword and dagger I do not know anything personally about these products but I am interested in buying that very piece. Hopefully someone here owns these and will reply.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2007 23:21:30 GMT
Wow! Bargain priced, too: www.swordsoftheeast.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=97 The ripples you see in the blade are hammer marks from the forging process. High end makers will often grind/polish them out (to "improve" the looks of the blade), but that's a lot of extra labor/expense. These blades are hand forged in the Philippines (Like Gen2's) to keep cost down, so they just leave the ripples in. They don't hurt anything. L6 is a pretty tough carbon steel that is commonly used in circular and bandsaw blades. It has some difference in chemical makeup from 5160 (a spring steel, basically 1060 with roughly 1% chromium added), but they both perform well in sword blades, with a decent heat treat.
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2007 2:25:47 GMT
Wow! Bargain priced, too: www.swordsoftheeast.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=97 The ripples you see in the blade are hammer marks from the forging process. High end makers will often grind/polish them out (to "improve" the looks of the blade), but that's a lot of extra labor/expense. These blades are hand forged in the Philippines (Like Gen2's) to keep cost down, so they just leave the ripples in. They don't hurt anything. L6 is a pretty tough carbon steel that is commonly used in circular and bandsaw blades. It has some difference in chemical makeup from 5160 (a spring steel, basically 1060 with roughly 1% chromium added), but they both perform well in sword blades, with a decent heat treat. Thank you for your reply. Sounds like test-cutting against straw mats is a go, then, as long as I watch and make sure the tang stays in the handle? Could you point me in the direction of a decent thread on sword-sharpening? Best, Steve
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