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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 10:34:35 GMT
Hey guys I got a problem. I permanently assembled the hilt on my AT 1432 using an equivalent of red loctite on the hex nut. Unfortunately I was to stupid to mount the guard correctly and I have to correct that. I tried to heat the nut over a candle but that didn't work. All I managed was too loosen up guard and pommel while the nut still stays tight. I don't dare to use brute force since I fear to snap the rod off. How do you guys remove loctite? I don't have a torch so is there any other way? I thought about heating the nut with a red glowing piece of metal... Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 13:41:12 GMT
Alot depends on when you put the loctite on. If you used the red loctite that would be either Loctite 242 or 262 and that fully cures in about 24 hours. I used that stuff alot when I was working for an aircraft maunufacturer. It's formulated to withstand high heat and vibration. It took a bit of force to remove hardware off of aircraft that had loctite applied but it's not impossible. I never snapped any bolts while trying to remove them and this is more-or-less the same application. if you apply steady force to loosen the nut, it may take a while but it should pop free. The steel is stronger than the thread locker. If it still doesn't want to budge, do have access to an air ratchet? Hope this helps, good luck.
Tibbs
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Post by ShooterMike on Jun 2, 2010 16:26:44 GMT
Buy a MAPP torch. It's a cheap investment.
Place the heat on the rear of the pommel, at the nut. It will only take 3-5 seconds of heat to loosen the loctite... if you only used a couple of drops. If you slathered on a lot of red loctite, you would have to heat up the pommel and nut enough to probably do some slight cosmetic damage to the leather wrap, but it should still come apart.
Be careful not to put enough pressure on the Allen wrench to strip out the inside of the nut. The nuts are significantly softer than the tang, specifically to avoid the possibility of stripping the tang threads.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 17:43:25 GMT
Thanks guys. I guess I'll buy a cheap torch, Mapp or whatever I can get here in Germany. Should be useful for a lot of other stuff aswell.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 19:38:52 GMT
OK guys, big problem. I don't know exactly what kind of glue that is but it's a semprini to remove. I got a torch and heated the pommel until the leather stared shrinking but the damn nut still didn't move. Furthermore I finally managed to strip the inside of the nut out so the allen key can't grip anymore. I'm pretty desperate now, is there ANY way to get the f***ing nut to move, if not I can basically throw the sword away, the guard's loose and tightening doesn't work obviously. Worst case scenario I have to get my angle grinder and cut the pommel in half. Don't want to do that so please, do you have any idea??
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Post by Dan Davis on Jun 4, 2010 21:35:43 GMT
clamp the blade upside down in a vise with the pommel in a small glass jar or bowl. Fill the bowl with acetone and let it sit for a day or so. Keep the acetone refilled as it evaporates and LET IT SIT.
After a day or so you can lightly tap a flat-bladed screwdriver into the nut and twist it off. If it doesn't come loose put it back in the acetone.
Next time use the BLUE loctite.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 21:43:59 GMT
Oh my god, thank you. I'll try that immediatly.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2010 19:59:03 GMT
Ok, here a heads-up. I left the pommel in the acetone for three days but it didn't change a thing. I got pretty annoyed and grabbed my torch for a second try. This time I went full risk, heating the pommel until it changed the color and started to burn the grip and voila... the nut came off. Still, that glue is a real son of a b**ch. Glad it worked though. I'll probably need to replace the leather wrap but hey, I can live with that.
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