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Post by mythosequidae on May 29, 2010 21:35:55 GMT
It's there, it's close. Why not sharpen it? Would it have been common to sharpen it historically?
Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2010 13:04:41 GMT
Generally speaking anything from around the point of percussion to the tip (foible) that has an edge is often as not sharpened. My German swords sure are ;D
Thrusting swords that have blades instead of poignards ( your new Pilsen definately has a poignard blade ) are sharpened because it aids penetration. Cutting swords with short "false" edges are sharpened for much the same reason; and in a pinch they can be used for a back slash.
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Post by mythosequidae on May 30, 2010 23:36:42 GMT
Thanks David. It might as well be sharp. More of the blade might as well be sharp also in my opinion. Why do they call it a false edge? Seems odd, if it might as well be a real edge.
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Post by Deleted on May 31, 2010 0:30:34 GMT
More of the blade might as well be sharp also in my opinion. Why do they call it a false edge? Seems odd, if it might as well be a real edge.
Don't know who was responsible for coinage of "false edge" It sounds like a literal translation of Italian without nuance. Back edge and short edge are also common descriptions for the lesser blade retained in the foible, ostensible to support thrusting.
Often the forte is left unsharpened for defensive purposes; taking a cut in forte then countering with the foible. Lee damage to your own sword supposedly.
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Post by mythosequidae on May 31, 2010 0:36:55 GMT
Thanks David. I've done some thinking and reading about sharpening a blade along it's entire course. It should maybe be avoided in a long thruster with half swording possibilities. I don't see half swording with a cavalry saber. The thing that comes to mind is if you dismount, and are grappling on the ground, a sharpened forte might come in handy for dicing a neck.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2010 14:42:21 GMT
Hello,
A buddy has an original 1860 Lt. Cav. Sabre and it is still sharp as heck on the forward half of the blade and the top false edge. That top edge on a sabre needs to be sharpened as well as the forward half of the main edge. The half or third up by the hilt needs to be left dull in case you have to grip it with the other hand for certain types of thrusts and manouvres or for parries.
In Cold Steel's instructional DVD set "Fighting with the Sabre and Cutlass" there are many cuts you can make using the upper or false edge of a sabre.
Freebooter
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