Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 22, 2010 19:49:36 GMT
Just drop the direct link to the photo between those boxes, like [ img]http://www.allmyphotosarehere.com/files..........vadersense.jpg[/img ] (without the spaces or ellipsis)Voila!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 22, 2010 20:08:07 GMT
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on May 23, 2010 3:43:31 GMT
I can't see them because I don't have facebook, and I'm thinking I'd have to be your friend to see them, anyway. Try imageshack or photobucket; make an account with one of those (well, the latter requires an account, but the former may not), upload your pictures there, and use the tags with those URLs.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 12:41:08 GMT
Why do THEY (whoever THEY are) make this so difficult? I'll see what I can do.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 18:08:31 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 18:29:30 GMT
Hmmmmm??? is that handle even assembled, or just glued on period. what mfg is that again? looks spooky to use, until you know for sure how it is put together. also is it stainless or carbon steel?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 19:03:09 GMT
Celbii, thank you! I think I successfully gave you karma. I'm rather new to this.
Sicheah,
I've cut with this sword (gourds, soaked rolled up newspaper "redneck tatami", plastic bottles. The gourd was fresh but had a fairly hard outer skin- like hurt your knuckes type skin if you wrapped on it with your bare hands. The sword cut through it fine. It was not as good with the lighter targets like the plastic bottles- cut went partially through then tore the rest of the way. Newspapers were about 2-3" thick (don't really remember- I'm guessing) but the wak couldn't get all the way through...or rather, my skills were insufficient to get the job done. It got 2/3 to 3/4 and then stalled. This swords has a decent curve so maybe I just don't know how to cut with it yet. OTOH, my $25 filiponi bolo purchased 18 years ago with the wak sliced the newspaper rolls very well; the bolo is clearly sharper. It's a pinute style. My point...no loosening of the tsuka or other fittings after these cuttings. It feels quite solid.
I do not think it is stainless although I see why you ask. I would not have bought if it I thought it was stainless. It's from Kris Cutlery and I don't think their swords are/were stainless. I think their swords are mostly 5160 or 1060. The tsuba is clearly brass but it looks like the habaki is copper. I e-mailed them about removing the handle and they told me that it was glued on but I'm not exactly sure how. Their newer models apparently do not have glued on handles are more traditional in that aspect.
The sword feels very sturdy but I don't know what is under the handle. There is no movement in the blade or the furnishings.
Thanks.
Tod
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 19:47:29 GMT
No problem It appears that tsuka would indeed be glued on, and unless theres anything under the wrap and furniture, it may just be glue. But They could have possibly put some pins in it then wrapped it or there could even be a nut holding it together under the kashira. But im no expert, thats just all I can think of from the pictures, it appears to be held on just by glue.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 20:37:18 GMT
No problem It appears that tsuka would indeed be glued on, and unless theres anything under the wrap and furniture, it may just be glue. But They could have possibly put some pins in it then wrapped it or there could even be a nut holding it together under the kashira. But im no expert, thats just all I can think of from the pictures, it appears to be held on just by glue. glue is bad.... but nut under kashira would imply a weld tang rattail that is well slo wall hanger spooky. i would discontinue any cutting until firther investigation. any info on where it came from and who makes it so we can research for you.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 20:52:15 GMT
I'm e-maililng Kris Cutlery again about it for more details. It's possible that it's just wedged and glued. If I'm lucky it's also pinned. Either way, I like this sword and it sounds like I might have another project coming into being. It would nice to replace all the furnishing with something a little more traditional and secure. I'll update when I hear from KC.
Thanks a lot.
Todd
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on May 23, 2010 21:07:50 GMT
No problem It appears that tsuka would indeed be glued on, and unless theres anything under the wrap and furniture, it may just be glue. But They could have possibly put some pins in it then wrapped it or there could even be a nut holding it together under the kashira. But im no expert, thats just all I can think of from the pictures, it appears to be held on just by glue. glue is bad.... but nut under kashira would imply a weld tang rattail that is well slo wall hanger spooky. i would discontinue any cutting until firther investigation. any info on where it came from and who makes it so we can research for you. It's been said many times throughout the thread that it's an older model Kris Cutlery wakizashi. Glue itself isn't all bad. It's held all kinds of handles on all kinds of blades for hundreds, even thousands of years, in all kinds of climates under all kinds of use. It just so happens that when dealing with most Japanese-styled weapons, the preferred choice of mounting is a removable one, which they achieve by fitting a wrapped hilt secured by friction and one or more bamboo pegs which extend through the entirety of the hilt. There is a chance that this was secured via the same pin method, then the pin was filed flush to the surface and the wrap then applied...there's a chance there is only glue. Again, not necessarily a bad thing. KC's always made their blades for use, so I highly doubt they'd undertake any unsafe or unreliable methods. That said...there is no way to remove this tsuka without destroying it. The fact that it has held so well until now is testament to its quality and durability. I say leave it alone, unless you're really wanting a more Japanese-style mount, in which case I say tear it off and start anew.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2010 23:35:52 GMT
I think that sums it up well. However, I will pass on the information that KC provides. I guess I have a decision to make. Thank you.
Todd
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 24, 2010 17:36:49 GMT
Cecil, from KC, said that he believes that the handle is glued on and that it might have one pin but he's not sure. He believes that the handle will have to be cracked in order to be removed and will then have to be replaced. Sounds like a project worth doing but I'm not sure I'm up to it by myself. Anyone in central Illlinois interested in a project? ;D
He also said that he thought the blade might be hollow ground. I'm going to have to take a closer look once I get home.
Todd
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 24, 2010 23:13:49 GMT
Well, it looks like Cecil of KC was correct, the sword does appear to have a hollow ground blade and, from what I can see, a secondary bevel. It's a VERY shallow hollow ground. I put a straight edge on the blade and couldn't really see a substantial gap. Once I held it up to the light, however, I saw light coming through and there is a shallow gap.
So, what does this do to my sharpening plans? I was going to use Tom's method but he doesn't recommend it for hollow ground blades. I was afraid that removing the secondary bevel would seriously weaken the edge by removing too much metal. I don't think I should file the blade from the ridge (shinogi?) to the edge but I could smooth the bevel off and make the edge of bevel less pronounced.
Any thoughts?
Todd
|
|
|
Post by sicheah on May 24, 2010 23:38:06 GMT
Well, it looks like Cecil of KC was correct, the sword does appear to have a hollow ground blade and, from what I can see, a secondary bevel. It's a VERY shallow hollow ground. I put a straight edge on the blade and couldn't really see a substantial gap. Once I held it up to the light, however, I saw light coming through and there is a shallow gap. So, what does this do to my sharpening plans? I was going to use Tom's method but he doesn't recommend it for hollow ground blades. I was afraid that removing the secondary bevel would seriously weaken the edge by removing too much metal. I don't think I should file the blade from the ridge (shinogi?) to the edge but I could smooth the bevel off and make the edge of bevel less pronounced. Any thoughts? Todd Just a penny of my thought: I've never heard too much about hollow ground wakizashi but I think the one you have is rare and rather unique. I would sharpen the edge to get cutting edge (like sharpening a knife) and would not want to bother with blending the bevel. Given the slight hollow ground blade, blending the bevel would remove quite some metal; and making it an appleseed geometry might take a long time and may change the blade handling too. Leave the geometry as it is and just sharpen the secondary bevel is what I would do.
|
|
|
Post by Cottontail Customs on May 25, 2010 2:30:51 GMT
I agree. just sharpen it with a knife sharpener so you can use it and save for a new one.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 25, 2010 2:49:56 GMT
glue is bad.... but nut under kashira would imply a weld tang rattail that is well slo wall hanger spooky. i would discontinue any cutting until firther investigation. any info on where it came from and who makes it so we can research for you. It's been said many times throughout the thread that it's an older model Kris Cutlery wakizashi. Glue itself isn't all bad. It's held all kinds of handles on all kinds of blades for hundreds, even thousands of years, in all kinds of climates under all kinds of use. It just so happens that when dealing with most Japanese-styled weapons, the preferred choice of mounting is a removable one, which they achieve by fitting a wrapped hilt secured by friction and one or more bamboo pegs which extend through the entirety of the hilt. There is a chance that this was secured via the same pin method, then the pin was filed flush to the surface and the wrap then applied...there's a chance there is only glue. Again, not necessarily a bad thing. KC's always made their blades for use, so I highly doubt they'd undertake any unsafe or unreliable methods. That said...there is no way to remove this tsuka without destroying it. The fact that it has held so well until now is testament to its quality and durability. I say leave it alone, unless you're really wanting a more Japanese-style mount, in which case I say tear it off and start anew. sorry random, you are correct, this could still be quality underneath, but so many darned SLO out there that it makes one worried.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 25, 2010 3:12:35 GMT
Well, it sounds like we've resolved my issues. I'm going to leave the handle on "as is" until something starts to loosen or move. When that happens, I will be able to present my serious safety concerns to the little woman which will justify a customization project!
As for the edge, sharpen it like a knife and save up. Can't ask for better advice. Although, that does create another thread...what to save up for?! SBG pro katana? SBG wak? Tanto? Oh what delightful agony. Thanks guys.
Todd
|
|