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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2010 18:03:53 GMT
I was searching the internet today looking for some high grit sandpaper to polish/sharpen a blade I'm working on when suddenly *gasp!* I found some 3000 grit sandpaper! Then the thought of overdoing it suddenly occured to me. Would 1000 grit more even show a difference in polish? Would it wield a sharper edge?
What's your thougts?
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Post by Dan Davis on May 3, 2010 20:53:34 GMT
Yes, it makes a difference; no it will not make a significant difference on a mono-steel blade, yes it will enhance the appearance of a forge-folded, laminate or tamehagane blade IF you use it properly.
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Post by Dan Davis on May 3, 2010 20:54:08 GMT
Oh, yes: I have papers up to 8000 grit.
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2010 21:25:16 GMT
Would you mind sharing with me where to get these rediculous grits?
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2010 0:12:19 GMT
You can get paper up to 20,000 grit. Yes it will make a difference if you do use the super high grits. But to what end, since you will eventually pass the noticeably of your own senses to see/feel the difference.
The only thing I would say using any grit over 6000-8000 would be good for is getting that super polish on a sword. I would say if you are in a very humid climate, using these high grit papers to get a fine polish will help you with corrosion resistance. Since he pours in the metal are less open with finer polish. Of course if you plan to cut with the sword regularly then these ridiculously high grits are pointless, and you shouldn't bother going over a 6000 to 8000. If your sword is going to be displayed for a long period then maybe use the higher grits.
I usually go up to a 6000 or 8000 for normal sharpening polishing.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2010 0:37:20 GMT
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Post by Dan Davis on May 4, 2010 1:20:09 GMT
Mostly all I use the higher grits for: cheap (relatively) replacements for finger stones when polishing Japanese styled blades.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2010 4:22:13 GMT
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Post by mythosequidae on May 5, 2010 2:26:10 GMT
Here is what I find with papers. The grit size is only good for a couple of passes. From the first pass, it gathers metal. A piece of 600 quickly loses the scratching ability of 2000. I try to buy cloth backed, or emery paper. You can continuously wash this in fluid like windex. Keep the blade tip in a plastic reservoir, and wash always. But still, the sharpness falls off quickly. If you need that initial bite for an extended time, it will be expensive.
I think about this, and often doubt my perception. I believe the abrasive is Silicone Carbide, and I believe that it should retain it's sharpness if cleaned....
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2010 2:59:57 GMT
Here is what I find with papers. The grit size is only good for a couple of passes. From the first pass, it gathers metal. A piece of 600 quickly loses the scratching ability of 2000. I try to buy cloth backed, or emery paper. You can continuously wash this in fluid like windex. Keep the blade tip in a plastic reservoir, and wash always. But still, the sharpness falls off quickly. If you need that initial bite for an extended time, it will be expensive. I think about this, and often doubt my perception. I believe the abrasive is Silicone Carbide, and I believe that it should retain it's sharpness if cleaned.... What is the abrasive used? Oil stones are the traditional Western stones that many people grew up using. These stones are made from one of three materials (Novaculite, Aluminum Oxide, or Silicon Carbide) and use oil for swarf (metal filing) removal. Although there is a certain amount of romance associated with using stone which is found naturally, there are some problems with this. First, over hundreds of years, the best mines have given up much of their best stones. This scarcity causes high prices for a good quality consistant stone. Synthetic water stones are generally made of Aluminum Oxide or Silicon Carbide. The big difference between water and oil stones is not in grit but the bonding agent. Diamond stones contain small diamonds attached to the face of a metal plate. There are two main types of diamond stone styles. The more common style contains holes in the diamond surface to capture the swarf. These stones cut very fast and are very simple to use. The next type is the continuous diamond surface. These stones are preferred when you are sharpening tools with points that might get caught in the recesses of the non-continuous diamond surface. Both types of diamond stones are available in mono-crystalline and poly-crystalline diamonds. The mono-crystalline diamonds are more desirable as they will last longer. Yes with paper you loose the grit quickly and it does not last all that long. That was part of the reason for pointing out that these high grits do come in stone, ceramic, and diamond. These are products with high grit that will last many many uses. Each has its pluses and minuses. I personally like the combo stones, just my personal tastes and what I am used to. I am actually planning on buying some soon and cutting off the ends of each for travel stones. Having smaller hand held stones with two different grits to work on your blade while out and about is nice. Cutting a 2 inch piece off the end of an 8 inch stone is not going to hurt your bigger stone for at home use.
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Post by Dan Davis on May 5, 2010 11:45:57 GMT
...But still, the sharpness falls off quickly. If you need that initial bite for an extended time, it will be expensive.
I think about this, and often doubt my perception. I believe the abrasive is Silicone Carbide, and I believe that it should retain it's sharpness if cleaned.... I dunno.. it sounds to me like you are applying too much pressure. Eventually the abrasive will wear off the backing, which is why it stops cutting well; but too much pressure actually rubs the abrasive right off of the paper almost immediately. Maybe try slowing down. Let polishing take whatever time it takes, and rub very lightly. This should reduce paper loading too.
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