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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2010 1:24:32 GMT
Most viking swords were quite thin and they were probably as flexible as H/T one. And although it has a good tip, it's not made for serious stabbing, it's just not designed for that. But the edge is crappy, you are right about that.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2010 1:48:37 GMT
Bergthor, have you read the Viking sword reviews on the main site? I would point you towards the Gen 2s and the Windlass Sticklestad. I've got a couple of Gen2's other swords and they are really good, really sharp blades--their vikings are on my must buy list.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2010 1:55:02 GMT
Yeah, I would say the biggest problem there is the edge. You're correct that it should have a much more subtle edge. Maybe not THAT subtle, but certainly a longer bevel than what you're describing. Cutting takes some getting used to, I'm sure you're going to get asked for videos on your form. The flexibility thing surprises a lot of people when they get their first real sword. If you're really concerned about it, post a video of you tapping the pommel and see what people think.
The cutting thing is actually why I would have wanted the KC, it just seems like a beast. ;D But you still have to understand that a good cut takes practice (or natural talent).
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on May 9, 2010 16:53:37 GMT
bergthor,
I really think all your sword needs to be the best cutting viking sword in the Sub$300 sword world is a good sharpening that gets rid of the secondary bevel. I read your PM before I read this. I think you would probably enjoy a sharper edge. if you get that sword decently sharp it will cut your juice bottles, and big jugs and even do some serious damage to those big water jugs like seen in the DSA katana vid you linked.
as mentioned above good cutting is more about technique than anything. there are videos of guys cutting tatami and bamboo with blunt/dull swords but their technique is wonderful. having a good sharp edge WILL HELP but will not do it all by itself.
none of the other swords you mentioned in your last post will handle as well as the H/T Viking and therefor none of them will cut as well if they have equal edges. The Hanwei Tinker line is designed very very well but sadly their edges are hit and miss with more miss than hit.
I really believe you have a good sword you will love, but you need to sharpen that baby up some.
it sounds to me like the M7 beyonet you speak of has exactly the type of edge transition we want on a sword. I could be wrong I've never seen one of those baynonets but from your description it sounds right.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 9, 2010 19:23:15 GMT
I am unable to find the review for the KC viking sword. Anyone have access to it? Thank you. Kris Cutlery Viking sword review. A couple extra videos for fun, The KC viking's the last blade used in this one.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2010 20:00:53 GMT
Holy crap, Ric, thanks for reminding me why I want that one. ;D
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2010 2:50:50 GMT
Yeah the reminder of the KC Viking was very apt that thing really cuts like a mother, have you sharpened the KC since buying it Ric
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2010 3:36:56 GMT
Ok Helper Of Thorr, now that you have one of H/C Tinkers, you just need a good edge, wont be hard to put one on, the blade shape and flex are Historically correct, just not as common as the type X blade shape, my Windlass classic that I am making into a 9thc. 10thc. viking sword by changing the hilt/pommel will be about right for the shape and flex that I want, I would get a tinker, but will have to wait intill I have the funds, these swords were slashers and not thrusters, but you could stab in a pinch, not all the Viking swords that are found have dull tips, some do have sharp tips, but the blades didn't get stiff intill after the 1200's due to Armour getting better.....SanMarc.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 10, 2010 4:02:32 GMT
Yeah the reminder of the KC Viking was very apt that thing really cuts like a mother, have you sharpened the KC since buying it Ric I have had no reason to sharpen the edge on this one, BB. I have five KC blades, they all came very sharp.
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2010 3:22:33 GMT
Thank you all for the advice, I suppose I am going to have to rework my edge somehow to make it more authentic and battle ready.
I like the KC viking sword, don' t get me wrong, but I don't see how it is any better than the "Oslo Viking Sword" from Darksword Armory??
They both seem to have identical stats, except for the fact that the Oslo sword has a more attractive handle (IMHO) and has a sharper, more acute point for stabbing (which I favor).
So why is the KC more preferred? Just a curious question.
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Post by shadowhowler on May 11, 2010 3:29:03 GMT
Well, for one thing the KC Viking will come out of the box cutting sharp. The DSA will have a wide dull edge... you will have to sharpen it, or pay for it to be sharpened... and unless DSA's sharpening service is VASTLY better then it used to be, the edge won't be near as good as that found on the KC Viking. Also I think the KC is going to be a better balanced user blade, in the hand, in a way you can not tell by just reading the numbers. I have had several KC weapons, and they were all VERY good user blades. So it comes down to do you like the look of the DSA more then you would like the useablility of the Kris Cutlery?
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2010 3:32:44 GMT
I would get the KC over the DSA, But again my funds will have to wait, and if only KC would offer a real scabard for that price!!!!!
.................SanMarc.
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2010 11:17:55 GMT
How is the Sword Buyer's guide sharpening service? Because they sell the DSA olso sword and offer the sharpening.
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Post by shadowhowler on May 11, 2010 22:32:12 GMT
How is the Sword Buyer's guide sharpening service? Because they sell the DSA olso sword and offer the sharpening. SBG will use the same service that DSA will use if you buy it from them directly I belive. This is most often the case with vendors... such as Kult of Athena when you by a Windlass sharpened.
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2010 7:10:09 GMT
Thank you all for the advice, I suppose I am going to have to rework my edge somehow to make it more authentic and battle ready. I like the KC viking sword, don' t get me wrong, but I don't see how it is any better than the "Oslo Viking Sword" from Darksword Armory?? They both seem to have identical stats, except for the fact that the Oslo sword has a more attractive handle (IMHO) and has a sharper, more acute point for stabbing (which I favor). So why is the KC more preferred? Just a curious question. Umm how is being 6 ounces heavier and being balanced more then an inch further out equate to identical stats to you?!? I'm sorry but that is a HUGE world of difference.
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2010 14:05:39 GMT
Just curious. Do you think that 1075 is too hard of a steel for which to manufacture a sword? Most swords are made out of 1060 or 1065 so that they have some spring / give to them. I know 1095 makes a bad sword for that reason, too much carbon, too stiff of a blade for a sword (though it makes a good edge material for a pattern welded blade). Does anyone own any swords made out of 1075? How do they hold up?
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2010 14:12:10 GMT
Just curious. Do you think that 1075 is too hard of a steel for which to manufacture a sword? Most swords are made out of 1060 or 1065 so that they have some spring / give to them. I know 1095 makes a bad sword for that reason, too much carbon, too stiff of a blade for a sword (though it makes a good edge material for a pattern welded blade). I'm not sure where you got that from. Some people here swear by 1095. So I'd imagine 1075 would be fine. It all depends on who made the sword.
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Post by sicheah on May 28, 2010 15:22:59 GMT
I've owned swords from 1045, 1060, 1075 and 1095 and to be honest, unless you are cutting daily or doing destructive test, you would hardly notice the difference (except for 1045...which is a little soft). When it comes to the difference between 1060 and 1075, the choice of smith and heat treat plays a bigger role rather than the types of steel. Not sure if this is useful but I have a Albion 1st gen. Pretty sure it is 1075 carbon steel. It comes really sharp, holds a decent edge after all these years and flexes pretty well. But because it is the most expensive sword I've had, I would not do more than cutting with bottles
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on May 29, 2010 19:33:18 GMT
the carbon content of steel does not determine how hard the sword will be it only determines how hard the sword CAN be. the more carbon the harder it CAN be made. the smith or craftsman making a sword can temper 1095 to whatever hardness is desired. you could harden 1095 to its full hardness of 65-63 whatever the rockwell hardness is for 1095 when fully hard and you could temper it all the way down to whatever you want. 40 HRC, 50 HRC, you could make it too hard or too soft you could even take it all the way down to a completely unhardened softness. the carbon count really is nothing more than a POTENTIAL. as for springiness 1095 can be very springy it all depends on how the steel is treated. tempered martensite is very tough and springy and higher carbon content aids the formation of martensite as I understand things.
I have at least one sword made from 1095, and one sword made from T-10 (chinese 1095 substitute with basically the same carbon content but maybe a little higher) and they are both very fine swords. I have swords made of 1060, 1050, 1045, 1070, 5160, 9260 and they are all pretty decent to very good. 1045 does tend to be towards the softer end but once in a while it is very well done.
the steel type is really of pretty low importance when compared to the quality of the craftsman. steel type is surrounded by hype, hype, HYPE! do not buy hype.
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on May 29, 2010 20:02:33 GMT
the carbon content of steel does not determine how hard the sword will be it only determines how hard the sword CAN be. the more carbon the harder it CAN be made. the smith or craftsman making a sword can temper 1095 to whatever hardness is desired. you could harden 1095 to its full hardness of 65-63 whatever the rockwell hardness is for 1095 when fully hard and you could temper it all the way down to whatever you want. 40 HRC, 50 HRC, you could make it too hard or too soft you could even take it all the way down to a completely unhardened softness. the carbon count really is nothing more than a POTENTIAL. as for springiness 1095 can be very springy it all depends on how the steel is treated. tempered martensite is very tough and springy and higher carbon content aids the formation of martensite as I understand things. I have at least one sword made from 1095, and one sword made from T-10 (chinese 1095 substitute with basically the same carbon content but maybe a little higher) and they are both very fine swords. I have swords made of 1060, 1050, 1045, 1070, 5160, 9260 and they are all pretty decent to very good. 1045 does tend to be towards the softer end but once in a while it is very well done. the steel type is really of pretty low importance when compared to the quality of the craftsman. steel type is surrounded by hype, hype, HYPE! do not buy hype. Well said! ;D This is what I wanted to say, but didn't know enough to be able to say it. At any rate, here's a plus 1 for you; thanks for explaining it so well. -Slayer
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