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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2010 13:04:22 GMT
Hi everyone, I have a question about oiling, since I'm a newbie, I was wondering on how is the oil supposed to be on the sword after like a few days, because when i oiled my sword, most of the oil dried and there are droplets on the sword. Now is this correct? or maybe I'm doing something wrong.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2010 14:01:31 GMT
Hi, I put a light coating of gun oil on all my swords. I clean it off every week or so and do it again. I never got any rust on my swords. A light coating.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2010 15:00:17 GMT
Hard to say without seeing it, but oil doesn't evaporate in a few days, especially if you put enough on it for the oil to bead. All you need is a light coating; too much oil will make dust stick to it.
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 14, 2010 15:02:50 GMT
Oils (all oils) have a surface tension and an adhesion factor. Surface tension tends to keep the oil spread out and adhesion makes it want to pool together.
If the oil is put on too heavily or if the oil itself is too thick then the adhesion factor causes it to bead up with itself. This is bad because if the oil has puddled up together then it is no longer spread evenly on the blade and you can get dry spots, which turn into rust spots.
Ideally you will get a very light oil (light or ultralight mineral oil, sewing machine oil, choji, RemOil, 3-in-1 oil, etc.) and spread it on in a very thin, even layer.
If done properly the blade should not look oily at all but a thumb or finger dragged across the steel will show a smear (of course, after you test it you have to re-oil it again to cover up the smearing).
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ecovolo
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Post by ecovolo on Apr 14, 2010 17:10:33 GMT
Depending upon what oil you're using, and where your blade is stored (temperature, dryness/humidity), it may evaporate, and/or leave spots.
My advice: Silicone spray. Works well and is long lasting.
Also, consider mineral oil. It's also a good preservative, and in my experience my blades have required only a few occasional touch-ups during a year.
--Edward
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2010 18:51:12 GMT
Mineral Oil on swords?
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 14, 2010 19:31:59 GMT
Yes.
Mineral oil has been the oil of choice for millennia.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2010 0:59:42 GMT
I've heard that most any oil would work. Olive Oil would make me want to lick my sword though, so that would be bad. I thought about trying lamp oil and seeing how that went since we have a bunch lying around, but I didn't want my sword to be flamable.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2010 1:16:07 GMT
I'm using 3-in-1 oil for my swords. I live in NYC so maybe its the climate? Does it matter that I leave the swords in the scabbard?
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Post by sicheah on Apr 15, 2010 1:34:22 GMT
I'm using 3-in-1 oil for my swords. I live in NYC so maybe its the climate? Does it matter that I leave the swords in the scabbard? I used 3-in-1 too. No problems with it so far. Climate in NY should be okay. Like Dan Davis says, just leave a very thin layer of oil (should not see oil beads or droplets after coating it with oil). You should be able to leave it in scabbard. If you are worried about rust, just re-oil your blade more frequently ...like say twice a month...in tropical climate, once a week might not be enough sometimes.
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 15, 2010 1:34:43 GMT
What is the scabbard made of? If you are using 3-in-1 then most likely you put on too much is all.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2010 3:02:18 GMT
Don't use olive oil
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2010 17:01:41 GMT
Thanks Dan, I had no idea about the mineral oil. I will start using that instead of gun oil.
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 15, 2010 18:11:03 GMT
Okay, but the main ingredient of most gun oil IS mineral oil.
Same goes for 3-in-1, sewing machine oil, RemOil, and Choji. Not to mention the clipper oil your barber uses.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 1:39:44 GMT
Can anyone post pictures of a katana that has been oiled properly?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 3:31:59 GMT
wd-40 has worked for me for years.
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 16, 2010 12:19:12 GMT
WD-40 is a military designation; it stands for " W"ater " D"isplacement formula number forty. It was developed for removing water from missiles in the 1950's The main lubricating ingredient of WD-40 is (wait for it!!!!!) (WAIT for IT!!!!): MINERAL OIL.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 21:22:38 GMT
I was joking about the olive oil, but i guess it wasn't a very good joke. It's too acidic, right? Anyway, I've had trouble with WD-40 in that it left a bit of bluish discoloration on my blades after it dried, but I was able to clean that off.
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Post by Dan Davis on Apr 16, 2010 21:39:36 GMT
Yes, that is part of the problem; the other additives remain and leave funky colors. Plus, there is a large concentration of Hexane in WD-40 which thins the mineral oil quite a bit.
Better to use the real deal and wipe it on with a rag.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 21:41:26 GMT
WD-40 is a military designation; it stands for " W"ater " D"isplacement formula number forty. It was developed for removing water from missiles in the 1950's The main lubricating ingredient of WD-40 is (wait for it!!!!!) (WAIT for IT!!!!): MINERAL OIL. Good for you. I was telling him what works and what is easy.
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