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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 0:00:32 GMT
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Post by Kilted Cossack on Apr 2, 2010 0:17:05 GMT
Wicked!
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Avery
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"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
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Post by Avery on Apr 2, 2010 0:32:39 GMT
A very interesting look to go for Sam, and nicely done man! I like the overall look, but to be honest that wont stand up to repeated use; repeated strikes to the bit will keep putting stress on the handle, eventually splitting it. But I figure you already know that. As it is now, I'll bet it's a heavy hitter! If I can make a suggestion, if or when the handle goes loose, soak it in water for a few hours and then heat the handle back up. That'll tighten the grain on the hikory. You can do this for a while before pinning it.
So.......you think you'll try to throw it? As thin as you've done the bevel on the bit it'll bite deep I'd say.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 1:13:38 GMT
Well, a couple hundred years of history beg to differ, these axes with the bit and same attachment method have been in use for thousands of years. The shoulder on the bit is designed so it continuously wedges, but not alot so as to split the handle, just a little bit over time. The shoulders on the tang are of a sever enough angle so as to keep it from going into the wood more, sloppily done it will split it, done right it is a careful balance.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 1:31:47 GMT
Nice, I don't recall this style from Europe or the Americas, where's it from?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 1:36:29 GMT
That's it... Instead of buying a sword, I'm gonna start putting money into building a forge. I would LOVE to try something like this, something that I had forged with my own two hands.
It looks great man! I would love to see how it holds up over time. Given your explanation, it seems sound. Without the circular part in there, I'm sure it would split the handle A LOT sooner.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 2:00:07 GMT
Just cause you have a forge doesn't mean you can automatically crank out swords, it's a long road, longer if you have no teacher. It's worth it in the long run, the satisfaction gleaned however is second to none.
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Post by shadowhowler on Apr 2, 2010 3:10:00 GMT
Just cause you have a forge doesn't mean you can automatically crank out swords, it's a long road, longer if you have no teacher. It's worth it in the long run, the satisfaction gleaned however is second to none. I bet this is very much true...
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 5:08:38 GMT
I have a vague memory of seeing a recreation of an early iron-age axe like this, and the end of the haft that the blade-tang was inserted into was either a knot or burl of some sort, with the thinking being that it would be less likely to split as Avery describes. Now that's a very old and very imprecise memory, and the source may have been full of cow-cookies, so take it with a bucket of salt! Have examples of these been excavated from bogs?
Whatever, nice work (again) Sam! You seem to have been having a lot of fun recently!
Cheers
Marc E
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 7:44:58 GMT
Oh, I'm well aware of the reality that just because I have a forge doesn't mean I'll be cranking out ATrim quality blades, or even things that could remotely be called blades. I have, however, had an introduction to blacksmithing and know the very basics, so if I had a forge, I'm confident that I could at least make some really nifty coat hooks.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2010 12:12:38 GMT
if the head was wedged into anything but seasoned hickory, it would eventually split or get loose from the continuous pounding, especially if one made a few less than perfect strokes with it. However, if the area around the top and bottom of the head was wrapped with wet rawhide, sewn on and allowed to shrink down and harden, then waterproofed with, say, beeswax, it would be very strong indeed. If one was going to use a less robust wood, this would be my construction technique.
Construction is very well done indeed. I've never seen an original of this type, but just looking at the design I would think to make the "ears" on the blade a bit wider to aid the whole wedging thing, but that's the original design then I'd guess it works just fine as-is. I love the symmetrical lines on the blade-I've hammered a couple of 'hawks in my time and I know how freakin' tough it is to get the blade sides even and with the same arc and distance to the blade edge. It's actually easier to go with a shallower top curve and a deeper lower curve then the blade arc can go wherever you want it.
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