Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2010 19:28:55 GMT
Does the corrosion on this blade look green to anyone else? If so, has anyone heard of a steel blade corroding green? I'll be able to get better pictures in a couple days.
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Major, Cory J.~
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"Who can separate a man from his sword? One is worth nothing without the other." -Kalebipoeg
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Post by Major, Cory J.~ on Mar 11, 2010 22:46:07 GMT
Judging by the greenish tint to the cloth its been put on top of, I would say that that is a lighting issue, and not a corrosion issue.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 1:17:46 GMT
I am relatively certain that copper is the only metal that oxidizes green. So was it stored in a copper saya or something? Otherwise it may be the photo.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 12, 2010 12:49:22 GMT
Hey Did you get that one? Score. I look forward to seeing how you finish it off. Let us know if you need any help.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 13:14:35 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 18:58:37 GMT
Yay! I don't have to worry about it being aluminum. I went to google first and asked what corrodes in green. It told me there was some aluminum that could, so I was afraid I had gotten a concept blade, but yeah, now that you mention it, the cloth does look green as well.
Demonskull- OH EM GEE, that second blade down is incredible! And the (pitting?) on the bottom one looks so awesome, it's as if the blacksmith had intended for that to happen.
I'll know exactly which blades I got when they get here. I made a list of 7 because I figured that the website wouldn't be updated by the second. I'll definately be posting here on methods to make pommels, guards and handles. I recently discovered that a friend of a friend is a blacksmith, so I might have access to a forge as well!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 13, 2010 4:04:20 GMT
3M Freecut 150 grit is great abrasive paper. Stays sharper for longer, and cuts back reasonably fast without making a scored texture - it gives a great start to a sating finish. Drawfiling is great for resurfacing but can make a shallow scored texture which you can then cut back with the 150 Freecut. Just sayin'...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2010 8:26:31 GMT
3M Freecut 150 grit? I assume that could be found at an autoparts store. I'll have to pick some up next time I'm in town.
I want to take as little material off as possible and get the blade to a stable state.
Do you think a wire brush would be to abbrasive to use as a pre-sanding paper method?
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 13, 2010 10:35:06 GMT
Ive seen it on US ebay before so I know it's available worldwide. You'll be able to get it I'm sure. Divide each sheet into 6, and use a corkblock. Use all 4 ends and then use the 4 corners.
I wouldn't use a wire brush. It's too random - you want a level surface. If it's really deeply pitted buy a smooth mill file and drawfile it before sanding. That will give you a dead level new surface. Unless it's hollow ground. Then your stuck with the cork block.
(btw 3M market it as FreCut (sp.))
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Post by sicheah on Mar 13, 2010 14:54:17 GMT
Wow you got at least two roman spatha blade right there . If you visit roman army talk (RAT) forum you could see how they turn a blade into a complete historically accurate spatha.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2010 3:22:46 GMT
Thanks for the heads up. I'll check them out. I'm planning on something a little later period though.
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Post by sicheah on Mar 14, 2010 3:44:42 GMT
Yeah those blades would work well as late roman spatha, migration swords or even some viking/norman sword, they may be a little blade heavy judging from the pictures but they are good stuff. Here are some of the works by Patrick Barta: here is where I do my drooling lol.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2010 5:31:15 GMT
Turns out I didn't get that single edged sword after all. When I try again tomorrow, I'll keep a nice list and check and x them off as I get them or not. Oh well, the blades I did get looked nice, but only one of them was tempered. I'm looking in to finding someone or some company that could temper the blades for me.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 16, 2010 15:54:14 GMT
From your other thread, for everyone elses benefit: "Heat Treating" blades involves: heating the blade up uniformly to 820-850C and slowly air cooling it, called "normalising" - to normalise the distribution of the molecules and crystaline structures. Then after those cycles it is heated up to 850C again, and "quenched" quickly in an oil bath; hoping the blade hasn't warped badly. If so they need to be heated right back up and straightened. And repeat the cycles. The longswords are more likely to warp than single handers. Once a successful quench is done the blades will be hard, and brittle, and fragile. They are then "tempered", by heating uniformly to a lower heat (280-350C) and let soak at that heat for an hour, to instill toughness. That process will be repeated a second time to temper retained Austentite (a non-magnetic unstable state) which converts to Martensite (Hardened brittle steel) as the blade cools after the first tempering. The process is different to hardening a tool, which isn't likely to warp, in that a blade has to be hung vertically in a long kiln or furnace for the heating cycles, to avoid warpage, and quenched vertically into a long tank so that both edges enter at the same time, again minimising warpage. (<- Surely that's all stickied somewhere..?) So you can see this is a very specialised job you need done. I can do it for you, or Sam or Dan could. But to get it done right will not be a 'nominal fee'. It's a very involved process, and vital to the functionality of your blade. It takes many hours. And can be very challenging, especially when a blade don't wanna be straight. It's certainly the major 'make or break' stage. And can take a perfectly formed blade and change it into something you hadn't planned. It can be heartbreaking, or rewarding. Warped and cracked blades form much of the Albion moat sale for just this reason. Many of them are the flunks. Good luck with your new blades!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Mar 18, 2010 7:02:31 GMT
And For you guys who need to resurface and put an edge on your unfinished blades I just wrote this lot. It should help you out: /index....ad=15310&page=1
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