Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 0:39:47 GMT
I have this idea for a conversion based on the Atrim Practical Arming Sword. The Atrim Practicals seem to be really great bases for customization, since they have nice blades and can be broken down in moments. I'd like to see what people think of this: As pictured, it would require a custom grip due to the length of the tang threads (I just stretched the original for the composite to show the general idea). A pommel the size of the original would allow for the original grip and a shorter D-guard, but I don't think it would look right. The way I'm picturing it, the conversion would not modify any of the original components. It could be undone quickly and easily. -Jonathan
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teclis22
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Post by teclis22 on Mar 4, 2010 14:46:03 GMT
Nice idea.
The pommel on your version is quite small though. Be aware that it would change the way of the handling drastically.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 15:02:51 GMT
While there's nothing wrong with wanting to get the right look, keep in mind that changing the mass distribution will always change how the sword feels and handles.
On the other hand, it's not a very complex design, so you'll have room for experimenting. I say go for it, keep an open mind, and see what you end up with.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 22:25:46 GMT
You're both quite right about the pommel...I would probably have to work with that a fair bit to get the balance right. Thankfully the ability to break down this sword would allow me to keep tweaking it until I got it just right. In my opinion, the Atrim practicals are worth the money even if it's just for the blade and scabbard. The fittings don't impress me, but that's where the fun of personalization comes in. Now my only problem is figuring out how to actually get the guard made. Probably any machine shop could do the pommel, but I'm not so sure about the guard. I think the best possible way to do it would be cast stainless steel (like the hilt of my Hanwei claymore, thing is tough they come), but that doesn't seem to be something you can easily get done for one-off customs. Or it could be stamped/pressed like old 1917 trench knives were (but not the flanged 1918 version, looks too crude for my tastes), then bent to get the D profile: Either way, I have no idea where to go to have it done. Anyone have any ideas? -Jonathan
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 0:36:33 GMT
Looks like something that would be at home in a Heavy Metal mag...just make the spikes on the knuckle bow about 4 inches a piece and you've got it! I like it, I'd wield it if I had one.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 3:13:04 GMT
itd be great for punching zombie faces
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 4:10:23 GMT
I was actually aiming for a bit of a Heavy Metal look...but less overkill and more functional.
I also have a version of the guard modeled that has spikes, but personally I prefer the blunt knucks. I suppose short spikes wouldn't be too overkill though.
-Jonathan
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2010 0:29:57 GMT
I like it man!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2010 7:34:40 GMT
I have made some knucklebow hilts of mild steel by just heating, hammering and bending. In fact I have a Pappenheimer/broadsword on the way, I mated Chevalier D'Auvergne Lafontaine blade with the shells of my old Darkwood economy pappenheimer and made the knucklebow and side bars myself. I have been thinking to get a Hanwei/Trim single hand sword blade (blunt, as this is a training sword) from Kult of Athena. I am aiming for a munitions/training grade version of this one: www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=17652I really think you should ditch the "knuckle duster" look and go for a more classic saber/broadsword design. Maybe make a shell, a plate to protect the hand and attach it to the bow by welding or rivets? This is a saber I made of a Chev D'Au blade: img200.imageshack.us/img200/7172/67378620.jpg
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2010 20:31:23 GMT
Mild steel would certainly be easier to work with, but I'm concerned a good impact could deform the knucklebow (I'd like it to be fully functional). Or am I not giving the material enough credit? That is a nice job you did on that saber... I really think you should ditch the "knuckle duster" look and go for a more classic saber/broadsword design. In which case I would probably just buy a classic saber/broadsword instead of attempting this conversion I have some traditional swords which I love, but the motivation behind this was that I wanted a sword with that grungey "heavy metal" look, but fully functional rather than a grossly impractical wallhanger. I know lots of sword lovers don't like anything that's not traditional, but personally I'd like to have one sword in my collection that's a bit "edgy" in appearence. -Jonathan
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2010 20:37:14 GMT
I'm with you there, Jonathan. I think this is a badass idea! I'd love to see this project completed. Best of luck to you, sir.
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Post by Kilted Cossack on Mar 10, 2010 3:10:12 GMT
Dude, I like it. Personally, my tastes run a little different----I keep imagining that 303S blade with the guard from the Windlass American Revolutionary War Saber----but that's why there's horse races, that's why we aren't all chasing after the same woman, that's why there's more than one kind of beer/wine/whiskey in the world. It seems to be a relatively simple project, and would give you a sword that's YOURS ALL YOURS, that's just the way you want it to be----and ain't that cool?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2010 9:43:57 GMT
Wow, thanks for the compliments guys! It would be cool to have a truely personalized sword, and it shouldn't be all that difficult. Not quite sure where to start, but I think I'll move to the custom projects part of the forum in a while and see if I can't get some ideas.
Would sure be worth it to post cutting vids and get comments like "What sword is that?" and "Where did you get it?"
-Jonathan
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2010 20:15:42 GMT
Mild steel would certainly be easier to work with, but I'm concerned a good impact could deform the knucklebow (I'd like it to be fully functional). Or am I not giving the material enough credit? Mild steel is still steel. It's pretty solid stuff - that's why you generally have to heat it up before you can do much with it. I mean, just looking at your design I can tell your right now: you are not deforming that thing without substantional force, and absolutely not by ramming it into some poor fellow's face.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2010 4:59:56 GMT
Hmmm, well since mild steel is a valid material, that certainly simplifies things. I wasn't taking into account the thickness of the guard when I was thinking about deformation...it is pretty thick (probably about twice as thick as the 1917 guard).
Not that I intend to ram it into anyones face, mind you...unless they are breaking into my house or something like that, of course.
-Jonathan
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 7:12:18 GMT
That is a nice job you did on that saber... --- I know lots of sword lovers don't like anything that's not traditional, but personally I'd like to have one sword in my collection that's a bit "edgy" in appearence. -Jonathan Thanks for the compliment. I'm not going to show any closeup pictures of the thing ;D The handle was uncomfortable, so I took the wirewrap off. Anyway the saber proved to be slightly off balance and heavy for training. Sabers, lacking pommels, can have a bit of a blade heavy feel to them. How about making those studs separetely and making threaded holes to the knucklebow? That way you could srew those studs in place and if you want a permanent fix peen the ends.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 12:01:58 GMT
How about making those studs separetely and making threaded holes to the knucklebow? That way you could srew those studs in place and if you want a permanent fix peen the ends. That actually sounds like a great way to do it. Would certainly be easier to get them made seperately, rather than pressing them out of the knucklebow itself. I'm starting to see this won't be as bad as I thought. -Jonathan
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 14:52:20 GMT
You can probably buy the spikes with screw posts pre made. Check out Tandy and other leather supply places, they have multitudes of screw post studs and spikes.
No longer than the guard is going to be, you would literally have to swing the sword by its blade and bash the guard into something solid to bend it up unless you made it out of thin gauge steel. Try using 1/8th inch steel strap and bash it with a hammer, you'll see that it is fairly resilient.
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