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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2010 21:13:31 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2010 3:28:00 GMT
Here is some damage to an approximately 100 year-old jian blade. Note that there are two overlapping nicks on the left (about 4" from tip) and another to the right (about 6" from tip). In addition, you can see a nick that has been polished out on the bottom, below the overlapping nicks. Whoever used this sword was pretty consistent with his striking points.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2010 4:32:46 GMT
That illustrates the damage and the repair perfectly.
You need to polish out nick as it will concentrate force and can result in stress fractures of the blade.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2010 16:01:12 GMT
Okay Gundoggy, finally managed to read all the way through that thread. Kudos to Garrett for how closely his blades seem to be resembling the antiques from what was said, but the Parrying edge-edge issue is something that we don't think much about in modern times.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2010 20:26:13 GMT
Garrett's swords still don't have the clamshell profile of the antiques. It can still be improved. What he and I discovered is that even when paying attention to use blade flat to parry, with the movement and rotation of two bodies and two blades, even at moderate drilling speed, inadvertent edge to edge collision does occur. Of course it's much less than if one was to actually block edge to edge but damage from parrying does occur.
It is true that no one thinks about this. Everyone wants a flat diamond profile blade that cuts through plastic bottles like butter but then it's not a historical sword. Fewer people actually learn real swordsmanship techniques (like flat parrying). Garrett and I use wooden swords but until we experimented with the real ones, we didn't realize that even if you do things right, your sword will get banged up. It sheds light on antiques with chips and such, those may have been just accumulated regular combat damage vs. someone using poor technique and blocking edge to edge.
An actual clamshell blade will not cut as nicely through plastic bottles and tatami as a modern flat diamond profile blade. However, since I am studying historical Chinese Swordsmanship, I want my tools to be as similar to the antiques as possible. As the primary goal of swordfighting is not to get cut, I want my swords to have enough toughness, and meatiness to the blade to minimize damage from crossing swords.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2010 23:50:53 GMT
All good points. I was referring to the comments of how Garrett's work was holding up to the Huanuos.
Anyway, yes the parrying issue does shed new light on how blades get damaged. Now maybe if somebody could make something along the lines of the VA A-Trim I-beam trainer for Chinese Blades this would lead to a greater depth of understanding for those of us trying to understand the more martial side of Chinese swordsmanship.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 4:43:44 GMT
For beginners I would recommend Jin-shi. I've seen some recent tangs where the threaded portion was very short compared to the longer thin 'stalk' shown in the thread on the Cold steel gim. This means a thicker tang entering near the pommel and a stronger sword. This is closer to antiques.
The heat treatment on the Jin-shi steel blades is very impressive for the money and looks superior to the Hanwei one.
Just because I practice with Garrett weekly doesn't mean I just prop up his products, my comments are based on empirical experiments and evidence (basically subjecting swords to hard use and damage) and I am brutally honest with criticisms. Basically once you've handled antiques, everything else pales, although the Jin-shi stuff is getting closer and closer to that level of performance. The price is better than anything else on the market.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 12:31:21 GMT
I will give Garrett credit on that. I was referring to the VA I-Beam because it is exclusively a metal practice sword that has safety considerations in the design. If more of us were able to practice with metal trainers and blunts, I think that would shep a lot of light on things as to how the real Chinese blades handled without exposing ourselves to the inherent risk of sharpened swords. The $20 collapsible tai chi swords and some other one finds at most martial arts suppliers options just don't have the right feel. My cheapie wooden one feels more like a real blade than many of those those do.
Having some dedicated practice blades available on the market that handled like real weapons could only help in furthering the understanding of true practical Chinese swordsmanship.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 14:30:02 GMT
blunt metal swords still have a narrow blade compared to wooden ones and can be dangerous at 'normal' speed without protection.
I'm using Graham Cave's wooden jian that's almost an inch thick at the edge and still it's dangerous to practice with them at speed/power. broken bones can result and in hit in the head, can be lethal. Thick Gambesons and metal helmets are required. Check out Traditional Chinese Sword League or grtc.org for required equipment for more forceful freeplay
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 14:49:02 GMT
I never said precautions didn't need taken. I think the best example of what I'm talking about comes from the WMA guys. Many of them are firm believers in steel blunts, and use them for practice (dry handling), pell work, and controlled partner drills - but they do take serious precautions when it comes to sparring for safety. What is happening with TCSL tourneys right now, is equivalent to sparring with bokken in JSA - it has inherent risk. That is why Shinai are preferred for sparring, they lesson the risk compared to bokken.
With the "training blade" concept I'm not talking about sparring alone. What would teach a person how a real sword moves through a form better? A piece of wood or a metal trainer that handles like a real sword? You and Garrett took a risk on practicing a parry drill with sharpened metal swords, you both went very carefully to see how the swords would act and to try and minimize the risk you were taking. In my opinion such a drill would be better done with steel blunts for the added safety. The student could learn how a real sword would act without the risk of lopping off a finger. Now should two students go at each other full force with metal blunts? No, that is an accident waiting to happen. But would a metal blunt help a student to better learn forms, basic drills, and some CONTROLLED partner drills? In my opinion that would be preferable to wooden swords because wood does not bind, flex, and slide like wood. I do believe having metal trainers available on the market would be a good thing for Chinese sword arts, and a marked improvement of the wushu pieces we have currently. (This is excepting the blunt Yang saber Hanwei came out with which is exactly what I'm referring to although it is a non-historic blade.)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 23:14:35 GMT
Liam, and i do understand others may disagree, but it is like shooting practice w/ a BB gun. it is no real preparatory for a deer rifle. sure you learn to aim good, but you are not really going to be ready for the recoil, the muzzle rise and to the left, etc. nothing replaces training w/ the real thing, although you can get a decent idea. i definitely believe in safety, practice it, and promote it... and in most case scenarios disapprove of training w/ sharps. but on the other hand, i was trained that way, and was never cut (not even nicked), because my sifu was just that good. i have trained two students myself the same way, but should i ever be daft enough to teach a student that is not extremely reliable, or (being not family AKA liability risk financially) just shoot me. as i said earlier, i do not approve of sharps practice in drills training. but there is a time and a place. these two, if the really know what they are doing, and have taken precautions, such as kevlar gloves, sleeves, and a good leather coat or better, could be the right time and place for this type of training. i definitely do not recommend it otherwise.
blunts are great for faster drills, but as both of you point out, injury can still occur when too much speed is used. of course a good boken can fracture a ulna or radius jest as well. nothing replaces good training... nothing. all practice should begin slow enough for muscle memory and speed increased only as skill levels increase. i see a lot of youtube stuff where folks practice way to fast for their skills, even with boffers.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 0:12:39 GMT
Okay, using sirtre's analogy my view is that flexible and semi-flexible wushu blades in practice is equivalent of learning to hunt deer with a BB gun, a metal traing sword designed to handle like authentic Jian but without the sharpened edge would be more akin to stepping up to a .22 mag before moving to a .308 or 30/30. Noting acts and feels like steel except steel. In the parry drill mention in the original post, it was noticed that when two metal swords even when used in a correct manner with proper form will still make some unintentional edge to edge contact, resulting in small nicks and chips to the blade. It is my opinion that a metal training sword would have showed this effect in practice. For those not familiar with the VA Atrim I-Beam here is a link, complete with a review by SBG's own J.E. Sarge: www.christianfletcher.com/Christian_Fletcher/AT305IB_-_I-Beam_Trainer.htmlI am not saying that having a like item designed to mimic the performance of a Jian would replace the need for using actual swords and test cutting. But it would be better than many of the current market choices. No, such an item would not meet TCSL tourney rules, it is thin enough to slide through a facemask, but in controlled partner drills (I'm trying to emphasize controlled here) it would act more like a real weapon than a wooden sword allowing to students to learn that they need to compensate for the natural flex inherent in even a rigid blade steel sword. The are continuing advanced in polymer blade training weapons also, perhaps this could be an option as well. I don't know I'm not that familiar with them. My end point, is that while wooden swords are an acceptable standard of training non-sharpened "practical" training versions of Chinese blades could only help us refine our practices more. (*more to add later, getting the little one to bed*)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 0:59:01 GMT
Okay Hanwei does have the Practical Tai Chi, and Adam Hsu models. If I'm not mistaken these do have slightly sharp edges near the tips although they are not meant for cutting. What I'm talking about is a steel training sword made to handle like a real jian but with thick rounded edges. I think having something along those lines on the market would help give those of us studying Chinese sword arts a greater depth of understanding about what we are doing. Again I'm talking single drills, possible pell work, forms, and slow time partner work (with some precautions taken) not full-force full speed sparring matches. To me this would be only slightly less safe than using a wooden sword for those same things, since steel handles like steel it would be closer to using a real sword.
The TCSL does have good guidelines for required safety equipment and weapons when it comes to sparring. I see no need to change this. I still think that a greater availability of metal trainers (and more common usage of them) would do nothing but help give students a better understanding of Chinese sword.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 4:30:01 GMT
yes... you are exactly on the button.... and definite on the CONTROLLED part. as for the hanwei practical tai chi... it is almost as light as a wushu but not as flexible. also way too sharp and mine is shrp full length from the factory. if you want to train blunt have one made by garrett and request a false edge, so when you later want it sharpened, there wont be as much to remove.
as for clubs and mass training and fulll out sparring... no. i agree with you 100%. that could be dangerous. a blunt false edge and especially sharp at controlled drills only and only for one on one training with a qualified instructor that is well trained and has extreme control of his self, sword and form.
it would be a great thing to get a decent chinese blunt or even a false edge. my brother and wife and i practice with a couple of false edge jian for our more moderate speed drills. (i mentioned sharps earlier... only slow speed.. obvious reason). bad part about the false edge is they are not well built. the best i have is a replica of the swann pirate king sword. it has a true rat tail tang... not welded wall hanger style... and it is a carbon steel of a a lesser grade. the best built one has a better tang but it is stainless. that pretty much says it all for blunt jian that i have been able find. due to the construction, i cannot spar very fast.
i would definite like to one day get a couple of false edged jian from garrett, but right now i am looking at a couple of foil for faster drills. but i will have to modify the hand guards.
on the original subject, if jian take edge to edge contact sometimes in a controlled drill... it would be understandable, as with any sword, that it would hapen in combat when your opponent doest really care about maintaining your sword after the battle is over.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 6:49:08 GMT
So after testing a Huanuo Royal Peony sanmai against a Jin-shi standard production sword, the Jin-shi gained a few new nicks about 0.5mm deep and the Huanuo suffered a few nicks about 0.5 to 1.0 mm deep and about 1-2 mm long. Once again the nicks looked like gouges/cuts.
So now I know I own an expensive sword with an edge LESS tough than a much less expensive sword. The Huanuo has a flat diamond, the Jinshi has a slightly contoured edge profile and is made of 1095 steel. I have to admit when I first read about Jin-shi on this forum I was very skeptical. Multiple parrying tests and lots of nicks later, I'm convinced!!!
Now I have to commission a Jin shi sword with a historical clamshell profile to match my antiques. Combined with modern steel it may be tougher than the antiques.
Now I have to get back to polishing out the nicks on my Sanmai sword.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 12:13:53 GMT
Good luck with the polishing.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2010 17:01:47 GMT
So after testing a Huanuo Royal Peony sanmai against a Jin-shi standard production sword, the Jin-shi gained a few new nicks about 0.5mm deep and the Huanuo suffered a few nicks about 0.5 to 1.0 mm deep and about 1-2 mm long. Once again the nicks looked like gouges/cuts. So now I know I own an expensive sword with an edge LESS tough than a much less expensive sword. The Huanuo has a flat diamond, the Jinshi has a slightly contoured edge profile and is made of 1095 steel. I have to admit when I first read about Jin-shi on this forum I was very skeptical. Multiple parrying tests and lots of nicks later, I'm convinced!!! Now I have to commission a Jin shi sword with a historical clamshell profile to match my antiques. Combined with modern steel it may be tougher than the antiques. Now I have to get back to polishing out the nicks on my Sanmai sword. my brother was learning to cut a tatami mat w/ a UC ikazuchi. he was too eager and totally flubbed the swing. he wound up swinging more like a baseball bat, and the trajectory would have allowed the sword to possibly hit his own leg. i reached out with my jin-shi production jian to block and darn it got an edge to edge block. this resulted in a 1mm cut in my edge. the ikazuchi is 1045 steel. both are hardened around 57 hrc. the UC has a cut in the edge about 1.5mm. needless to say, i agree that this was a tragedy to both blades, but had either been made w/ less quality the accident could have resulted in a deeper gouge, or even a broken blade. i could have prevented this by not blocking. but the jin shi was only 200 bucks and we wont even discuss what the bill for stitches could have been.probably over 1000. needless to say i am truly glad that garrett puts out good products. edit; they are both TH.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2010 9:28:28 GMT
/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=14875&page=1
I started a thread on oblique angle contact to an appleseed grind in the general section since it is a universal truth for all swords and not limited to Chinese blades.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2010 14:37:47 GMT
Interestingly, I recall seeing some messer manual pages that depict (with images) people parrying edge to edge. I figured the artist was just an idiot, but some of the text is translated to "catch it on your edge and on your flat", which could be interpreted a few ways.
I think the artist was just unaware of fencing and was taking the words too seriously, or was trying to show us something and didn't do it clearly.
M.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2010 20:04:17 GMT
Many parries are done edge to edge. For one thing, it's entirely more intuitive. Secondly, it gives a substantially stronger guard simply through physics. In olympic style sabre (not exactly the best example I could use), all blocks are made with the edge because otherwise there is not enough rigidity to guarantee that a strong blow will not break your guard.
there are two schools of thought on blocks and both of them are perpetuated by people who really don't know what they are talking about. The first is that ALL parries were edge to edge, for reasons given above. While all those reasons are valid, it still ignores that many countless examples of flat bladed parries. The second school of thought is that all parries were done with the edge because it prevents damage to the weapon. This is also idiotic for the same reason - there are countless examples (and testing evidence) that shows that a edge to edge parry is optimal in many circumstances. Also, when one's life is at stake, preserving blade flawlessness isn't exactly a priority.
Who says both styles of parrying weren't used in equally substantial amounts? Who says that each don't have their own advantages and disadvantages? Who says that a good swordsman doesn't know when to use which?
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