Major, Cory J.~
Member
"Who can separate a man from his sword? One is worth nothing without the other." -Kalebipoeg
Posts: 558
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Post by Major, Cory J.~ on Jan 15, 2010 15:46:11 GMT
I get the procedure of oiling a blade (both medieval and Japanese swords), HOWEVER, while in discussion with my Father, he highly "suggests" (almost voluntold!) that I should use Tung Oil. Is this a suitable oil for this (Every time I use Tung Oil on wood, i hang the cloth up to dry, and when I come back the cloth is always "crispy", and "crunchy". Do I REALLY want this on my blades?)
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 15, 2010 16:27:41 GMT
Use tung oil on blade steel ONLY if you like throwing blades in the trash.
If you have ANY other use for the blade then do not use tung oil.
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Major, Cory J.~
Member
"Who can separate a man from his sword? One is worth nothing without the other." -Kalebipoeg
Posts: 558
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Post by Major, Cory J.~ on Jan 15, 2010 17:13:03 GMT
YAY!!! I won a 5 dollar bet with my father!!! Ty Dan!!! +1 to you for settling this debate.
Next time, I go over to my parents, I'm bringing a printout of your post!
"DAD, PAY UP!"
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2010 17:27:43 GMT
might need a little explanation for 'em, though.
Tung oil is for wood, and the reason it's good for wood is that it penetrates pores and forms a water resistant film... tempered steel doesn't have pores, and the only way water can hurt it is by oxidizing (rust).
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 15, 2010 17:38:35 GMT
Well, actually steel DOES have pores (grain openings), this is why blades are usually given a high polish. The burnishing action of high-grit polishing closes the grain as much as possible. Which explains why a highly polished blade will rust more slowly than a satin-finish blade; less of the grain is open to the weather.
Unfortunately, surface tension prevents substances like tung oil from penetrating deep into the steel. As a result you end up with moisture and other gunk sealed into the grain of the metal with a cap of hardened tung oil.
Then you get to watch your blade rust from the inside out, and nothing you can do about it.
This is also why thinner oils like light or ultralight mineral oil work better than heavy oils. Less surface tension means deeper, more thorough coverage. Micro-crystalline waxes are right out of there.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2010 17:44:24 GMT
ah. oops. thanks for the clarification. I have a lot to learn. I guess my knowledge of guns doesn't carry over as well as I thought... Now that I think about it, blued steel and polished steel are two very different animals.
also, light mineral oil you say? I wonder how heavy my aerosol CLP is in comparison. Perhaps I should switch...
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 15, 2010 18:55:06 GMT
The bluing process uses chemical salts to artificially "corrode" the steel, sealing the grain in the process.
CLP is a light mineral oil with other additives specifically intended to increase "wetting" action and as such it is just dandy for blades; you should not have any problems with it at all.
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Post by djhere on Jan 19, 2010 18:15:06 GMT
Major,go to the thread-Cheap Choji Oil Alternatives/replacements here on the forum and you'll find a list of suitable oils.
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