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Post by sol on Apr 20, 2007 6:53:16 GMT
I received a new sword today (JL-808 bought mostly so I could compare it to the "Masahiro Bamboo" JL-815 as they are both made by the same manufacturer. Review will be coming at a later date). The blade was covered with old oil that had congealed and wouldn't just wipe off. I tried using oil from one of my cleaning kits to remove the old oil. No luck. I also tried alcohol it was a little better, but still left the blade stained. Now I know I could have tried a stronger solvent but instead decided to try the Uchiko ball (powder ball)that came with the kit. I lightly dusted the blade with the powder ball and took a soft rag that I oiled with the oil in the kit and just ran it up and down the length of the blade. It worked like a charm (imagine that ). It left the blade clean and shiny. Sol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2007 15:08:57 GMT
The purpose of uchiko is to help remove old oil and gunk from the blade. There is also a silent debate going on about whether or not it also micro-polishes the yakiba (skin) as it does so.
Sometimes you get blades with old wax or something and it just won't come off. Good job on getting it off!
L.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2007 5:49:13 GMT
Wat sort of powder is that, any idea? Some special type or any body powder will do?
I currently uses a mix of Meta Glow and/or WD40 to remove any old oil before re-applying with HanWei sword oil or Rena Wax. The latter for swords I stored in wooden scabbard.
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Post by sol on Apr 21, 2007 6:30:44 GMT
Hi guys
L. Draegon the sword definitely looked like it had been in its' saya for a long time. Using the Uchiko powder seemed to have put a slight polish on the blade, but I could just be seeing the difference going from a dirty blade to a clean blade (the contaminants on the rag did look similar in appearance to rags I've used with Brasso polish). Since real Uchiko powder is made from Japanese Uchigumori stone and that is used to polish blades initially I would guess that there would be a slight polishing effect when using the powder from the Uchiko ball (containing Uchigumori powder not talcum powder, though talcum powder may polish slightly also).
Larry the powder that is usually in the Chinese made cleaning kits, like the one I have, is said to be only talcum powder. I suspect that is used in lieu of the real Uchigumori stone powder to reduce the cost of the kit. It worked very nicely when used in conjunction with the oil (which I believe is mostly mineral oil) supplied in the kit. By Rena wax I assume you mean Renaissance wax. If so how well does that actually work? I've read a lot of good things about it, but would like to know if you feel it's worth the price charged for it.
Sol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2007 15:50:07 GMT
I use Ren Wax exclusively on all my swords, I've even coated my motorcycles with the stuff. It does a phenomenal job, and will not wash off when cleaning the blade after use. I'll clean the blade with Never Dull first, then put a very fine coat of Ren Wax over that. It's the same stuff the British Museum uses to protect their collections, so it has a solid reputation. A small can of Ren Wax will easily last a year or more depending on how often you use your swords.
-John
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Post by jpfranco on Apr 21, 2007 16:25:32 GMT
Renaissance wax is the BEST for ALL swords and parts. It protects against dreaded finger marks, it embellishes and restores leather belt and scabbards and once brass has been cleaned with metal glow, it slows oxidation down to a minimum. I use it extensively on everything in my collection. Try it, you will love it. The best part is that the packaging tells the truth, like Redjohn said: A little goes a long way.
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Post by sol on Apr 21, 2007 22:01:14 GMT
Thanks Redjohn & Jpfranco.
I had read it was very good , but just wanted to here it from someone who had actually used it.
Sol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2007 0:35:49 GMT
it embellishes and restores leather belt and scabbards I had wondered about this, since I haven't gotten around to getting any yet. I've tried various waxes on leather and haven't seen the results I was looking for. Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2007 1:07:43 GMT
Ren. wax is good stuff for show pieces, but use on pieces you use regular will cost you an arm and a leg and if you have it on your blade when you try to polish or sharpen the blade you'll plug up your stones.
I'd stick with Choji oil and uchiko. Wooden sheathes get boiled linseed oil, or lacquer depending on their finish, leather gets a good rubdown with kiwi parade gloss shoe polish or saddle soap, depending again on the finish, brass gets brasso, silver gets silver polish.
Stains on some blades can be removed by dipping a cut potato into brick dust and scrubbing the blade. Just a side-note.
L.
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Post by sol on Apr 22, 2007 1:10:24 GMT
L.Draegon thanks for the good info. It all helps.
Sol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2007 1:06:37 GMT
Sol, I'm really not too sure abt the Rena Wax, to be honest; I bought it as it was greatly recc. thru' the swords/antiques collectors' circles. Let me elaborate:
I had a Windlass Persian Schimitar which developed some nasty rust spots aft I left it in its leather scabbard; I gave it some nice sanding, followed by meta glo, coat it with several layers of Rena Wax, put it back inside the scabbard. After abt 1 and half weeks, new rust spots begin to attack the poor blade again!
Now I only use it on blades which I stored inside their wooden scabbard cos I don't want any oil to harm its wooden core. For all other swords that come with leather scabbards, like most Windlass products, I simply clean them with WD40/Meta Glo & then coat a layer of HanWei oil and display them without their scabbards.
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Post by sol on Apr 23, 2007 2:00:19 GMT
Thanks Larry.
I am going to order some renaissance wax to use in certain applications. Sorry to here about your scimitar rusting. Leather scabbards are a problem when it comes to storing a sword.
Sol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2007 7:21:47 GMT
Yeah.. was really upset when I 1st uncover those rust spots on my precious schimitar.. Good thing the rustings are containable & I learned my lessons the hard way. But hindsight, I've those rust spots to thank as through it all, I begin to know more abt metal characteristics & hands-on blade maintenance. In fact, I think the scimitar blade looks more 'realistic' in satin finish rather than the original Windlass polished-finish ;D
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