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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2009 8:03:14 GMT
I have looked over the sticky about polishing and sharpening. But to me there are too many methods to choose from, so i dont know where to start. I am a completely new guy at everything concerning swords, so i have never attempted to sharpen my rapier. Or anything else probably.
I would prefer to do it by hand, but i am not sure if for example Ian's Sharpening tutorial is the best way to do it, since the rapier is double edged. Or does that matter?
I hope i am not asking something that has been discussed over and over already ;]
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 16, 2009 9:12:01 GMT
Welcome to the forum Raggin. And your always welsome to ask questions, it gives us something to do Assuming it has a 1mm edge like a Hanwei sharp rapier, or an edge like most windlasses, drawfile it. Drawfiling: *Disassemble it. F Clamp the tang to the top edge of a bench. Put a nail behind the ricasso so it can't swivel. *Use a 2nd cut millsaw File - hold it perpendicular to the edge line. Angled at 20 degrees. Draw it back and forth to shape the edge - don't saw at it. *Bang the gunk out of it every 10 to 20 seconds. Once it's down to a sharp edge move onto 150 grit freecut abrasive paper. Then once the filing marks are out of it move up the grits to your desired finish. *Go steady - watch your progress toward the edge. Not that the edges on these and Windlass get thicker and thinner so some areas will need less cutting - so watch that or you'll get a wavy edge. Happy sharpening. I sharpened my Hanwei Gustav. It cut soda bottles - there's a utube clip of it. It did however put a set in the sword and I don't recommend it. But it will cut.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Oct 16, 2009 14:13:10 GMT
I second that recommendation. I draw-file all my blades. I use a 10" second cut mill file to take off the bulk of the steel, then move on to a smooth mill file. Then 400 grit paper on a flat aluminum bar, then 600 grit paper.
Mill files only cut in one direction. With the file's tang in your right hand it cuts while pushing away from yourself, with the tang in your left hand it cuts as you draw toward yourself. Don't put a whole lot of pressure on the file during the cut and no pressure during the return. You might want to get a file card and some machinists chalk too to keep the file from clogging up. Definitely bang the filings out very frequently as a stray burr stuck in the file will gall your blade.
I always wear leather gloves while filling as you can easily cut yourself and the steel gets hot too.
Also depending on the type of rapier, you don't really want to sharpen any more than the first third of the blade toward the tip. Maybe the first half and not more than the first 2/3.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2009 14:43:42 GMT
Rapiers are not really sharp per se, nor are they really used for cutting. What rapier are you looking to sharpen?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2009 18:51:57 GMT
thanks for the help guys. I have the Hanwei taza cup hilt rapier. And i can see the part i wanna sharpen as it gets really blunt after a certain point. Too bad that i am even gonna go through this trouble. Kult of Athena listed the rapier as "sharp". But it has no cutting edge whatsoever, even if it gets really thin
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2009 2:27:28 GMT
Well you could just the last third use a sanding block and 400 grit to get a bit of an edge but thats mostly for draw cuts and little snap cuts, rapiers are thrust only for that very reason its where its purpose was. I've got my eye on the Taza big time and while its got the broader profile of the rapiers its still a thruster.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 20:34:50 GMT
i went to a big warehouse store to buy these things. They didnt have 150 and 400 grit paper. But i got 120, 260, 600 and 1200 grit. I also bought a file suited for use on metal and gauntlets for protection. Now, i might need a few other things too, but atleast i got this. However, i should point out that i have no idea how to disassemble the rapier. And if i tried, i fear i would only ruin it somehow.
Anyway, +1 to Brendan and Brotherbanzai
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2009 6:41:03 GMT
Well you are in luck!
I just looked up the Hanwei taza cup hilt rapier on KoA and looked at it's specs. Turns out you have a threaded pommel. What that means is that the metal knob below your hand (when holding the rapier like a sword) is basically a big nut. Turn it counter clockwise and it should loosen. From there the rest of the sword will practically fall apart.
You may have to put some elbow grease into turning it. Different swords are tightened to different torques, but I wouldn't imagine you'd need anything other then the strength of your hand to loosen it. Don't use pliers as that will more then likely scratch up your pommel.
Keep us updated =D
Edit: And as far as sharpening a rapier goes, KoA might have listed it as sharp because the tip of the sword might be sharp for thrusting, but that is just speculation.
As was stated in a previous post, you might wanna stay away from water bottles tho as they can turn from a soft target into a hard target really quickly depending on your edge alignment.
Instead, the next time you are at your hardware store, go over to the plumbing section and look for pipe insulator. It's basically a giant foam tube. And if you have the cash, you could even build a pipe insulator stand outta PVC pipe... infact, I think I might do that tomorrow.
But the pipe insulator (to my knowledge) is a really soft target. While rapiers aren't exactly a cutting weapon, I don't think it would be to much to assume that some rapiers were classified as "Cut and Thrust" Thats not to say that you could cleave a man's leg off with one, but cuts to tendons and muscles could be done with a sharpened rapier.
Also (and I really don't mean to ramble) if you are interested in practicing your aim with the thrusts, the way I've found to be most fulfilling is to get a piece of lattice and some wrapping paper. Tape the wrapping paper (white side down) onto the lattice. Then flip the lattice over to where you are looking at the white side criss crossed by the lattice. Work on punching holes into the paper and avoiding the lattice. Some people like to hang tennis balls from strings, I like to destroy stuff, so paper targets work best for me.
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