Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2009 21:51:53 GMT
Allright, I have the Hanwei hand-and-a-half (Albrecht sword), the antiqued version. I love it, it's currently my favorite out of my small collection. I like the blackened hilt furniture and the brown, worn looking leather, it gives it character, makes it look like it was carried on many a long campaign over the years. Now, I'm not that fond of the blade, which has a texture on it, I think it's been acid treated. It's not a deal breaker, but it just looks a little dirty. I'd like to take some of the "antiquing" (is that the right word?) off of the blade, and give it a nice satin finish. Can anyone tell me the best way to get this done? I'm thinking sandpaper, but I'm not sure what grit to use. I'll post pics, if folks want me to. Thanks!
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Post by YlliwCir on Oct 11, 2009 22:32:02 GMT
Pete, I have the Hanwei Bastard Antiqued, I like the blade that way myself. I don't really have any suggestions but a question. I have the regular hand and a half and love it. Does the Antiqued version have the running wolf and flower in the fuller?
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Post by randomnobody on Oct 11, 2009 22:38:22 GMT
I've looked at pictures on various dealers' sites and it seems the "antiqued" version is without the etchings in the fuller...odd. Unless ol' sneakypete can tell us otherwise? I'd start with 800 grit sandpaper, that seems to be the more common used by folks here. But I've never bothered to sand a blade so I'll let the others clue in with their experience. Personally I'd just leave well enough alone, then again I'd have bought the regular version and "antiqued" the bits myslef, anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2009 23:15:49 GMT
Nah Ric, there's no etchings on this one, it probably came off when they gave it the patina treatment.
Random: Damn, why didn't I think of that! Hahah, yeah, I see what you mean there, but this was actually my first euro sword, I didn't really think I was up to doing a project piece at that point. I'm sorta thinking about picking up the regular version and putting 'em side by side, so they can be buddies.
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SlayerofDarkness
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"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Oct 11, 2009 23:26:43 GMT
Hey, pete! ;D Is the Hanwei H&H peened or threaded? If it's threaded, you could swap out the blade with the regular version you're thinking about getting... -Slayer
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2009 23:42:14 GMT
Hey Mr. 'ofDarkness!
This one's peened, so I'm pretty sure it's gonna stay in one piece. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking the Tinkers are the only Hanwei's that are take-downs. Nice idea though...
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Post by randomnobody on Oct 11, 2009 23:49:03 GMT
A lot of Hanwei's Renaissance and fencing blades screw together, perhaps a select few of their Euros, but most of the medieval stuffs is peened. Of course, you could always grind off the peen, trim back the shoulders of the tang, and re-peen, but you'll lose an inch or so of blade length.
I think 800 grit is all you'll need, maybe 600. 1000 might not be "enough" but I figure 400 would be "too much" to get your desired finish.
You can also just try some scotchbrite or what have you.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Oct 12, 2009 0:54:59 GMT
Obviously the trick to the abrasive paper is going to be to go coarser and coarser until it cuts the patina off, and then go back finer and finer. Perhaps start at 800, then move down if you need to. Cut the paper into 6 and use a cork block - Always wear kevlar gloves. You'll have trouble getting right up to the guard though. Note though that the Hanwei surface texture is usually very scratchy, and fine sanding will make every little mark that much more obvious. And the finer you make it the more obvious they get. If you want to get it back to a nice smooth texture you will probably have to cut the surface right back. I like "3M Freecut 150" grit for resurfacing my blades.
It is imposible to patina the guard and pommel on the standard version; or either version for that matter. The parts are impregnable stainless steel. Thats why the hanwei 'antiquing' is just a lumpy black spray paint. Thus the sucky part of that is that if you chip the paint you won't be able to refinish it.
Back to the ol' drawing board hey?
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